How to torque Front UCA shaft nut? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-12-2003, 03:21 PM
dmrvos
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I just completed a full front suspension rebuild on my 95 9C1. I used the MOOG higher durometer rubber bushings and the AC Delco replacement parts elsewhere (ball joints, idler arm, tie rods, upper control arm pivots shafts, etc.).

Once everything was installed and tightened (snug -- but not final torqued), I set about doing the final torque on everything (yes, with the suspension at final ride height).

I was able to get to passenger's side LCA nuts/bolts & UCA nuts with a torque wrench (difficult to do-able).

Same for driver's side LCA nuts/bolts.

Got to the driver's side UCA rear-ward nut thru the wheel well.

Finally, attempted the UCA forward nut (closest to radiator) on the driver's side. Too much of an angle to get at it from the wheel well. From above (thru engine compartment) was only able to get a box-end wrench on it (15/16" I seem to recall). Absolutely no room to sneak a socket in there. Tightened it as best I could with my
15/16" box-end wrench. BUT, the torque spec is 92 ft-lbs. I have a fairly long 1/2" drive torque wrench I used for everything else. Had to give that a pretty good tug to get to 92 ft-lbs. Couldn't really tell how tight I got that last UCA nut -- the 15/16" box-end is about half the length of my torque wrench.

After all the work I put into this suspension, I'd like everyting to be right. How have you guys done this? Is there some way to get a socket/torque wrench on this nut -- or do you just use whatever tool gives you access and tighten to where you think it is right?

Thanks for any help.

-- Dan
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-12-2003, 03:43 PM
LarryCigar
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Put the box end of a combo wrench on that nut, and then loop the box end of another longish wrench into the the open end side to gain extra leverage. Try to estimate torque you used with TW.
post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-12-2003, 04:49 PM
spaughman
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You should be able to get a torque wrench on it. Its been a while since I've done mine but I remember the awkward angles on a couple of the upper ones. I did use a swivel socket on one of them if I remember right. I am pretty sure I did that one from above. I did have my air pump removed, I can't remember if it got in the way or not since I took it off for other reasons.
 
post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-12-2003, 09:17 PM
SSpiffy
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What you need is a suitably sized crow's foot wrench. Here is one example. Really useful things to have around when working in tight places.
post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-13-2003, 10:18 PM
Mike454SS
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It should be noted that a torque wrench wont be accurate with a crows foot...it wont be very far off either, but it wont be as accurate as it is with a socket.
post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-13-2003, 10:44 PM
SSpiffy
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Well, that one is easy. The formula for the correction factor is C=D(A/B) where A=length of torque wrench (grip point to centerline), B=length of torque wrench and extension combined (grip point to centerline), C=setting on torque wrench and D=desired torque.

Now let's plug in some numbers. Assume that the torque wrench (A) is 18", total length with extension (B) is 24", and desired torque (D) is 80 lb-ft. So, C=80(18/24) which reduces to 60 lb-ft.
post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-14-2003, 07:58 AM
Mike454SS
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Yeah, it's very easy to correct for, just need to make sure you go ahead and correct for it if you're a real stickler for the correct torque specs.
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