I need rear spring suggestions... - Chevy Impala SS Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-14-2003, 05:34 PM
Aaron D
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Here's what I have or am planning to get:

-GW front springs
-Hal adjustable front shocks
-Homemade billet aluminum lower rca's
-Air bags in both sides of the rear
-I could probably use new rear shocks but I don't know what to get or if it is pertinent to my question(s)

I have the stock springs in the front and rear right now and I like front ride height as it is, but could tolerate it being slightly lower(car has 113k so the front might be a little lower than stock). I'd like the car to sit level (drop in the rear) but I know there is a minimum pressure required in the air bags. Will this affect ride height noticeably w/ a given spring?

I would like a constant rate spring w/ similar characteristics to the stockers (except lower). I say this because the stockers seem to be a good compromise between handling, and drag racing. If anybody knows different then I will be flexible on that aspect.

Thanks,
Aaron
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-16-2003, 12:50 PM
scot august
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If you like the stock ride height, a 9c1 rear spring from 92-96, is a linear spring,rated at 160 lbs/in. The older 9c1 rear , also linear is rated at 184lbs/in. and sits a little higher[ 28 inches vs. 28.5].Rear stock SS is 154lb.and sits closer to 27.5.All are much softer than most aftermarket lowering, progressive springs. These plus 750 lb. GW fronts would match up well with the HO 35mm+38mm bars without producing too much oversteer.
post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-16-2003, 01:01 PM
AutocroSSer
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For what you want, the closest match is the stock rear springs.
 
post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-16-2003, 02:45 PM
Aaron D
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Thanks for the info guys.

Scot, thanks especially for those specs and the ride height info. Unforutunately, I definitely want to go lower in the rear not higher. It doesn't look like there is an off the shelf option for me though and those specs prove the fact, which is what Ed pretty much said.

Has anyone ever had custom rear springs made for whaterver reason. I'm more curious about ballpark prices than anything, right now I guess.

Thanks,
Aaron

Also, I forgot to mention swaybars.

I have an HO front but I am waiting to put it on until I get an HO rear to balance it out. I'll get the rear on after I get finish building my control arms. The arms are about 1/2 done. 2 X 3 billet w/ lightening holes (still heavy though), poly rear bushings and the newish "Johnny Joint" poly enclosed spherical bushiings in the front ($80/pair from Currey if you are intrested).

Thanks again,
Aaron
post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-16-2003, 03:14 PM
scot august
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Even with stock SS rear springs you will still want a compliant, not overdampened rear shock. With the GW F springs and HO bars, you won't want to add any oversteer inducing stiffness in the rear. You'll need a lot of damping for those GW's however.Might sound wrong, but a comfort Bilstein #1517 may be good choice with all that rear bar.
post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-16-2003, 03:16 PM
scot august
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Even with stock SS rear springs you will still want a compliant, not overdampened rear shock. With the GW F springs and HO bars, you won't want to add any oversteer inducing stiffness in the rear. You'll need a lot of damping for those GW's however.Might sound wrong, but a comfort Bilstein #1517 may be good choice with all that rear bar.
post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-16-2003, 03:56 PM
Aaron D
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Good point Scot. What if I stuck with the stock rear bar? What do you think a good shock choice would be then. If I could get away without spending any $$ on a new rear bar that's fine with me. I do want the car to tend toward understeer. Also, I will eventually have maybe 150 pounds of stereo gear in the trunk which might make the car tend toward oversteer as well. Maybe a stock rear bar w/ stock shock, and the other mentioned mods) is good for now. I could put off any shock changes until I get the extra weight in the back and then possibly go with a softer shock. My stock rear shocks have 113K on them now and probably need to be replaced. I have another set of w/ way less miles (50K maybe?) that I can use for the time being.

I guess it all starts with the rear springs though, I'd lie to get my ride height figured out.

Later,
Aaron
post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-16-2003, 04:04 PM
bengston
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Scot, not sure where your logic is coming from. With the stiffer GW fronts and F-body bar and stock rear springs with the HO bar, you'd be nicely into an understeer condition. I'd figure you would want the HAL rear shocks to go with the fronts, but you certainly would want some good damping in the rear, otherwise, you could have some side to side oscillation with the heavy rear bar. Not saying the HD Bilstein would not be enough, but it seems the Sport Bilstein would be better.

Aaron, having had 150Lbs in the rear with bags compensating(idividually valved), I can say that the tendency is toward neutral to slight understeer, stock. Adding the firmer GW springs would put it solidly into understeer like you want. Also, with an underdamped shock like the Monroe SensaTrac, which I was running, at that load it gets pretty bouncy, where now, with the firmer Monroe Severe service, it's actually smoother than empty.
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-16-2003, 04:20 PM
scot august
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Wayne, He did not say he had an F-body front bar [1 1/4]. He said he has the HO front [1 3/8].Lot of front bias, it's the transitional oversteer potential I was thinking about.Made me wish a 1 3/8 rear bar was available.
post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-16-2003, 04:29 PM
bengston
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The heavier HO front bar, combined with the firmer GW springs would have him much more solidly into understeer than stock.

Adding an HO rear bar with stock springs would put it toward neutral, but still understeer, though I don't know what the effect of the 150 Lbs would be. I'm thinking it would be pretty near neutral to understeer though.
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