How hard to install rear UCA bolt? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-07-2004, 12:29 AM
buzzwyzr
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I was driving home this evening and got that "stock-rear-control-arm-after-lots-of-abuse" feeling again. The rear of the car was swaying ack and forth pretty good as I gave her gas and hit the brakes. I also was hearing some rubbing coming from the rear of the vehicle as I made a right turn. So, I get home, jack her up, and begin to look for the problem. It didn't take long to diagnose. The bolt that holds the UCA to the diff housing is missing!! That would definitely account for the swaying rear end, and the rubbing sound is the inside of the right rear tire rubbing on the frame (having 18x10.5 rims back there doesn't help matters much at this point either!). So, I grabbed a screwdriver and tried to stick it through the CA and the diff to see if the holes were still lined up with each other. Of course, they weren't. With that being said, how difficult is it to get the CA, bushing, and diff all lined up and bolt installed? I'll be doing this on my garage floor mind you, so any tips would be greatly appreciated.

BTW, I have Hotchkis RCA's (upper and lower, extended lowers and adjustable uppers).
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-07-2004, 12:51 AM
AutocroSSer
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Can be a bit of a bear. My advice is to get it on jackstands under the frame, jack under the pumpkin, and then disconnect the shocks and remove the rear springs. At that point, you should be able to use the jack to move the axle around until the bolt hole in the UCA lines up with the bushing.

BTW, be sure you use a good bolt in there! Minimum I'd consider is Grade 8....

Oh yeah....Blue loctite : use it, love it
post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-07-2004, 09:38 AM
buzzwyzr
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Thanks Ed.

As far as the bolt goes, aren't the factory bolts Grade 8? I know GM tends to be cheap with some things, but you'd think they'd use premium hardware for suspension parts. Thanks.
 
post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-07-2004, 12:53 PM
AutocroSSer
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Factory is either Grade 8 or Grade 10.9 on those bolts.

I will say that although GM is "cheap", I've been downright scared by some of the fasteners that Subaru uses [img]smile.gif[/img]
post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-07-2004, 02:15 PM
Mike454SS
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GM uses good fasteners where it counts. I'd grab a new bolt/nut from the local dealer...they shouldn't rape you too bad for just a bolt and a nut.

While you're in there, give the 5th brake line a good inspection to make sure it hasn't been damaged by the axle overtraveling...doesn't sound like it did, thanks to shocks and your tires hitting the frame, but it can't hurt to be sure.
post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-07-2004, 03:03 PM
buzzwyzr
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike454SS:
GM uses good fasteners where it counts. I'd grab a new bolt/nut from the local dealer...they shouldn't rape you too bad for just a bolt and a nut.

While you're in there, give the 5th brake line a good inspection to make sure it hasn't been damaged by the axle overtraveling...doesn't sound like it did, thanks to shocks and your tires hitting the frame, but it can't hurt to be sure.
Thanks for the advice. Luckily, I have a braided steel line brake hose kit installed, and that hose was part of the kit.

As for the bolts, I called Hotchkis and ordered a set of bolts from them. $18 for all of them. Not too bad IMHO.
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