Bumpstop and End Link - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-15-2004, 09:51 PM
enigma9c1
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Just had Hotchkis springs and new shocks installed. The 9C1 sits only a little more than an inch lower in front. I was expecting at least a 2-2 1/2" drop in front. I asked my mechanic if only one drain hole was covered and if everything was tightened back up while car was sitting at ride height. He said yes. He also told me that however the original cop springs were installed is how the new ones were put in.

Are the stabilizer bar links a standard length no matter what spring is in there? He put new links in. There's about 3" of the metal part of the link between the two pieces of rubber. Does that sound right? Are there different length links depending on the spring? Also, there is a little over an inch of space between the Hotchkis bumpstop and the arm (not sure on the part description [img]graemlins/.gif[/img] ). Does that sound about right? Can anyone help me out here to explain only the ~1" drop? Thanks.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-15-2004, 10:23 PM
Vador
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Quote:
Originally posted by enigma9c1:
Just had Hotchkis springs and new shocks installed. The 9C1 sits only a little more than an inch lower in front. I was expecting at least a 2-2 1/2" drop in front.
Give it some time, they will settle and the car will drop more.

Quote:
Originally posted by enigma9c1:
I asked my mechanic if only one drain hole was covered and if everything was tightened back up while car was sitting at ride height. He said yes. He also told me that however the original cop springs were installed is how the new ones were put in.
Check it youself. Jack the car up, find the drain holes on the bottom of the spring pocket. Stick your finger inside and feel for the end of the spring. The end should just clear both holes.

Quote:
Originally posted by enigma9c1:
Are the stabilizer bar links a standard length no matter what spring is in there? He put new links in. There's about 3" of the metal part of the link between the two pieces of rubber. Does that sound right? Are there different length links depending on the spring?
With the car sitting on the ground, the end of the bar should be close to horizontal, if not you can different lengths at any parts store.

Quote:
Originally posted by enigma9c1:
Also, there is a little over an inch of space between the Hotchkis bumpstop and the arm (not sure on the part description [img]graemlins/.gif[/img] ). Does that sound about right?
Yes, but if the ride is a bit stiff you can shave a little off with a hack saw, but don't cut too much off or the excess travel could cause problems elsewhere.
post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-15-2004, 11:25 PM
enigma9c1
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Thanks for the response, Kamchief. I love the way the rear looks now (That didn't sound right, did it? ). To me, it looks perfect, ie the expected drop. Hopefully, the front will settle another 1-1 1/2" lower as I expected. I did a lot of research when choosing a drop spring, one that would be pleasing to my eye but not too low for clearance purposes. I think it looks good, but one more inch in front would look just right.

It handles nicely, too. No more float. The mechanic said it wasn't his cup of tea, that he could feel every little bump in the road. I couldn't disagree with him more. Plenty of cushion, just not as much as before.
 
post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-16-2004, 12:14 AM
buffman
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kamchief1:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by enigma9c1:
Just had Hotchkis springs and new shocks installed. The 9C1 sits only a little more than an inch lower in front. I was expecting at least a 2-2 1/2" drop in front.
Give it some time, they will settle and the car will drop more.

Quote:
Originally posted by enigma9c1:
I asked my mechanic if only one drain hole was covered and if everything was tightened back up while car was sitting at ride height. He said yes. He also told me that however the original cop springs were installed is how the new ones were put in.
Check it youself. Jack the car up, find the drain holes on the bottom of the spring pocket. Stick your finger inside and feel for the end of the spring. The end should just clear both holes.

Quote:
Originally posted by enigma9c1:
Are the stabilizer bar links a standard length no matter what spring is in there? He put new links in. There's about 3" of the metal part of the link between the two pieces of rubber. Does that sound right? Are there different length links depending on the spring?
With the car sitting on the ground, the end of the bar should be close to horizontal, if not you can different lengths at any parts store.

Quote:
Originally posted by enigma9c1:
Also, there is a little over an inch of space between the Hotchkis bumpstop and the arm (not sure on the part description [img]graemlins/.gif[/img] ). Does that sound about right?
Yes, but if the ride is a bit stiff you can shave a little off with a hack saw, but don't cut too much off or the excess travel could cause problems elsewhere.
</font>[/QUOTE]I thought the front springs were supposed to be between the two drain holes. Covering the first one and not the second one?

Matt
post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-16-2004, 12:25 AM
Vador
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Quote:
Originally posted by Buffman:
I thought the front springs were supposed to be between the two drain holes. Covering the first one and not the second one?

Matt
Then why have 2 if not as a back-up if one gets clogged. I mean they are there to keep water from puddling and rusting out the spring pocket, right?

By the way enigma9c1, hope you don't get too attached to the way the rear site. My brother had these in his SS and the front/rear dropped almost equally to the point that it looked like it was squatting(?) in the rear. He ended up putting air bags in after installing Scott's trunk kit because it really got out of hand (read: ride was terrible).
post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-16-2004, 01:09 AM
enigma9c1
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Buffman- Yes, I did read in the Haynes manual and on a couple of threads here where one, but not both, holes should be covered. I had the car up on ramps this afternoon changing the oil and filter. I looked at those two tiny holes, and for the life of me I can't determine a damn thing. I can't see whether one, two, or no holes are covered. Is there some kind of trick to determine this?

Kamchief- That's why I didn't get the Intrax or STs. I wanted a drop, but I wanted it driveable. It's my daily driver. I don't want to look like [img]graemlins/.gif[/img] every time I approach a speedbump or slight incline. I've read nothing but positive comments on Hotchkis springs. I think in the end I'll be happy with them. If you've heard anything else, though, let me know.
post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-16-2004, 06:04 AM
CHV_FRK
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Look underneath the control arm to determine if the end of the spring is even close. I too am of the mind that only ONE hole is to be covered. The point of two holes is not only draining, but alignment as well. Hopefully while on the jack you can align the spring properly
post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-17-2004, 12:13 AM
Vador
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Quote:
Originally posted by enigma9c1:
Is there some kind of trick to determine this?
You could try to stick a nail or something up through the hole.
post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-17-2004, 09:19 PM
enigma9c1
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Anybody else drop a 9C1 with Hotchkis springs and only get ~1.25" up front? It was my understanding that a 9C1 is 2" higher than an Impala. If it's an advertised 1.3" drop on an Impala, then wouldn't I get a 3" drop?
post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-18-2004, 01:55 AM
enigma9c1
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Well, got under the car again and found that the end wire of the spring was beyond BOTH holes. It's only supposed to cover the first hole. The fu#king jerkoff expert mechanic installed the fronts incorrectly. They're not seated properly. That's telling me that is why the other 1-2" drop I was supposed to get isn't there.

What do I tell him when I go back so he can do the job right? Should he put it on a lift, loosen the lower control arm bolts, rotate the springs so only the first hole is covered, lower the car, then tighten bolts? Sound right?
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