needed advice on swaybars/control arms - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-08-2002, 08:20 PM
Deep South Frank
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I finally got all the parts for the rear lower control arms and the front fbody swaybar and rear HO swaybar (malibu performance is awesome, had the bar in about a week after ordering), so I'll probably be trying to do this swap this weekend...

Anyone have any tips for doing this work? I am kind of foggy on whether the suspension needs to be loaded when torquing everything, etc..

any help appreciated
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-08-2002, 08:38 PM
Terry McManmon
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When torquing the control arms the car should be at ride height. Sway bars don't matter where you torque them. It is a good idea to watch the front suspension go through its range of travel, much as you can, to be sure the new bar and/or endlinks don't contact anything they are not supposed to.
post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-08-2002, 09:04 PM
Deep South Frank
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at ride height? jacked up or what?
 
post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-09-2002, 07:58 PM
Deep South Frank
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malibu performance is great on shipping time, but i wish they would have done a little better on shipping itself. they shipped the bar by itself and just taped the packing slip (and a lot of other crap) to the bar. being unboxed, it got scraped around a lot in the ups truck, screwing up the paint.. after a lot of scraping, sanding, and painting with rustoleum blue metallic it looks great. but would it be so hard for them to simply put the bar in a box when they ship it?
post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-09-2002, 08:34 PM
Terry McManmon
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Frank,

Ride height means with the weight of the car on the wheels or the jack stands under the suspension control arms so that the suspension parts are in the position they will be with the car in operation. this is extremely hard to do at home. Professional equipment is often needed.
post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-09-2002, 08:36 PM
Deep South Frank
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what if i jack each side up, and put a wheel ramp under each side, then torque them? would that work? if so would i also need ramps under the front wheels too so that it would be level?
post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-10-2002, 12:18 PM
Terry McManmon
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The object is to get the suspension compressed to near the normal ride height. The ramps would work, and only one end at a time should also work well enough in my opinion. One side at a time might not be so good though.
post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-10-2002, 03:20 PM
Deep South Frank
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thanks for the advice...
what i really need to do is buy a lift i guess
post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-10-2002, 03:48 PM
Terry McManmon
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Not all lifts will work for this either. The drive-on kind that support the car by the wheels will work, but has the disadvantage of making access to the control arm bolts more difficult than supporting the car on jack stands under the suspension. Of course the kind of lifts that support the car by the chassis and let the suspension hang are of no use for tightening the bushings.
Bottom line is that working on the suspension is difficult to do properly and many folks, even professional shops, take the shortcut of not tightening the suspension properly. This shortens the bushing life.
Good luck with your project.
post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-10-2002, 05:21 PM
Deep South Frank
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i think some of the 4 post lifts that lift the wheels can be ordered with an option that lets it also jack up the frame... so you can take the load off the wheels after it is in the air
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