New end links for a 2nd gen F-body bar (NO GOOD) - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-12-2004, 02:47 PM
Sinij Kot
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There was a fitment problem with a 2nd generation F-body bar. I tried solving it by making spacers for sway bar bushings. This helped with clearance and position of the bar but the bar's arms were too short, you can see the problem in pictures below.





I had an idea of how to fix this problem. I couldn't find any parts of this type readily available, so I went to NAPA store where I used to work some time ago and browsed through about 100 boxes. Pictures below show what I found. There were few other option that could work but I like this one the best. This set offers a ball and socket type connection on one end (to be mounted to the control arm) and a bushing type connection (to be mounted to the sway bar end).
Installation takes about 30 minutes for both sides. The price is very good at about 25$ for a set. I trimmed the bushings in order for them to center in the bar. The hole is drilled in a position where the link is perpendicular to the control arm, it is approximately in the same location where the stock end link is mounted only moved over to the side of the control arm.













After the installation the car feels more responsive and I haven't notices any problems yet. Time will tell. I don't know how strong those ball joints are and if they will withstand the loads from the bar. NAPA couldn't cross reference these parts and determine the application.

So what do you guys think?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2004, 10:09 AM
tlynch
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Interesting setup.

My f-bar is in the mail and now I need to get the hardware for it.

Are you worried that the "forward tilting" on the ball joint due to the arc swing of the bar end might cause the ball joint to fail?
post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2004, 09:45 PM
Sinij Kot
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I am not sure what you mean by forward tilting, but so far so good. No problems yet (I don't expect any). The bar is not actually moving all that much, I think that is the reason why car manufacturers just do it away with a regular (stock style) end link.

By forward tilting, do you mean that if you take the end of the link (at the bar) and pull it toward the front of the car it might pop out?
 
post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-31-2004, 11:23 AM
arnie
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Good idea, and implementation. Far superior to eom location/orientation.
For those that have lowered vehicles, or would prefer a little shorter link, did you discover
anythng similar but shorter in your search at NAPA?
post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-31-2004, 09:02 PM
Sinij Kot
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Quote:
did you discover
anythng similar but shorter in your search at NAPA?
I did [img]smile.gif[/img] . The numbers are in my car. I narrowed it down to 4 choices, I think only 2 of them are in this style and 2 other ones are different. The two other ones look like a ball joint with a very long shaft that you can attach the end of the bar to. However the second choice wouldn't fix my offset issue so I went with the first one.
If someone is interested, I can post the other part numbers.
post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-16-2004, 08:43 PM
Sinij Kot
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Bad news!! I have interference problems. There is no easy way to solve the problem. The links seemed to move the bar higher than where it was before, this in turn caused sway bar rub against the wheel. I noticed this when one of the balancing weights on the rim was scratched, then I found rubbing traces on the bar it self. Also the spindle comes very close to the new link, I would say too close. I don 't recommend this set up for a lowered car. I might try to get the other 3 links that I found at NAP to work, but it doesn't look to good.
The whole problem is that bar is not reaching deep enough into the car (front to back) to have proper link alignment.
Another way to solve this would be to make some sort of extension for the bar.
Anyone has any other suggestions?
Sorry for the bad info.
post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-16-2004, 08:50 PM
CHV_FRK
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Haven't looked yet...but can the sway bar mount be moved back? Or make a mount that shifts the bar back. I will be getting to this problem soon.
post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-16-2004, 09:36 PM
95wagon
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Space it down AND back



post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-16-2004, 11:48 PM
Sinij Kot
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Gerry, as you can see, I made an attempt to straighten out position of this sway bar with spacers. However it is not as extreme as yours. I like that set up. I was going to machine a complicated piece but you just solved my problem . Did you have a flex problem with stock-type set-up or is the pipe there as an insurance?
Gerry, did you get my mail about steering box adjustment?
post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-17-2004, 01:52 AM
95wagon
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Quote:
Originally posted by Siniy Kot:
Did you have a flex problem with stock-type set-up or is the pipe there as an insurance?
I saw the opportunity the tie the sides together so I did.
The forces the steering box put in to the rail are substantial so I thought tying them together couldn't hurt.
Gm actually did the same thing with some 3rd gen "F" bodies, which were known for tearing up left rails.

Oh and I forgot to mention, use frame brackets for a Mustang. They are wider spaced so you can put proper hardware in. You are drilling holes in the bracket so it is no more work to change the spacing.

Gerry
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