<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by AutocroSSer:
Yes, with the only "gotcha" being that if the car is VERY lowered (say 2-3 inches from stock SS height) and depending on wear in the frame, it may not be possible to get the camber setting to what those specs say (you'll end up more negative than the specs). If that is the case, there are solutions but they require spending some $ to fix it.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Are you sure the B-Body geometry works this way? I mean, it's classic front suspension architecture to have negative camber at end of the suspensions travel (compressed) and more positive at the bottom (extended)...but, everytime I jack my car up and get the front end in the air, I can't help but notice MORE negative camber when the A-arms are topped out vs when the car is on the ground. And it seems that if I jack up a rear corner, the opposite tire on the front would show more positive camber.
Am I making sense?
It obviously has to do with the length of the upper CA vs lower.
The point is, if I'm right (who knows), he would have more positive camber to correct for, requiring the use of more shims in the upper A arm support.
I first noticed this when I rebuilt my front suspension with the PST super polygraphite kit. When I put everything back together, including the wheels (but NOT the shims), I noticed that the axis of the front suspension (looking from straight on) was perpendicular to the ground, as opposed to the top of the tires being more in (negative camber). Furthermore, I noticed an INCREASE in positive camber when I lowered the car. What do you make of this?