Front end alignment specifications? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-13-2002, 12:55 PM
BAD ROD
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I have been running around using the IGBA website front end alignment specifications for a while. It seems to work good. Is it still the common thinking that these specs are best for b-bodys?

I am up for another alignment and would like to get a set up optimized for handling.

Thanks!

Mike

Description_____Specification (deg)__Tolerance (deg)

Front Left Camber______-0.25_________0.25
Front Right Camber_____-0.25_________0.25
Front Caster___________ 4.00_________0.50
Front Total Toe_________0.00_________0.06
Rear Camber___________0.00_________0.50
Rear Total Toe__________0.00_________0.12
Thrust Angle___________0.00_________0.25
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-13-2002, 02:23 PM
AutocroSSer
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They are what I'm using, and are an excellent compromise between tire wear (very minimal) and performance.

For all-out cornering performance I'd dial in some more negative camber (say to -1.5 to -2.0 degrees).....keeping in mind it WILL wear your tires significantly more in front. Would probably also want look at your rear suspension if necessary (i.e. maybe take out some bar and/or spring rate in back) if you do so.
post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-13-2002, 04:40 PM
BAD ROD
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Thanks, Ed. I think I will stay with these specs. I don't want funny tire wear.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by AutocroSSer:
Would probably also want look at your rear suspension if necessary (i.e. maybe take out some bar and/or spring rate in back) if you do so.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

What do you mean? softer spring rates? smaller swaybar? why?

Thanks!
Mike
 
post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-13-2002, 05:30 PM
AutocroSSer
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If you adjust the front alignment so that you are getting better "bite" in the turns, you'll want to soften the rear (either thru softer springs or a smaller bar) to end up with the same ratio of over/understeer. If you don't, the car will be more likely to oversteer.

It's physics in action, baby
post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-13-2002, 06:23 PM
atlSS96
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Hey Ed...oversteer is FUN , kinda like Starsky and Hutch or Smokey and the Bandit !!!
Sticking to the question , Mike those alignment specs have been great for me, and I have done several other club members cars with them and they seem happy with the performance and tire wear (I got 55k out of my last set of Potenzas!!)
SSee ya, Scott
post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-13-2002, 06:54 PM
BAD ROD
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Ahhhhhhhh, I see Ed. That makes sense.

Scott, thanks!

Mike
post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-14-2002, 09:43 AM
kevm14
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I was considering trying a little bit of toe-in on the front next alignment. Maybe 0.15 degrees (max spec is 0.2 of total toe I think). That might add a small amount of straight-line stability and braking stability with a minimal amount of extra tire wear. Comments?
post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-15-2002, 01:53 PM
Cruz-lo
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129,000 on my 95 SS I have always used factory nominals more or less. Even though I use custom springs and bars.
Target camber -.3 degrees.
Target total toe IN .187 degrees.
I got 61,000 miles from my last set of BFG tires. 54,000 on the first set.
GM states that the toe in is required on rear wheel drive vehicles. As you drive and speed increases the front wheels have a tendency to pull out. So with some initial toe IN your wheels will come to ZERO with the drag associated with forward motion.
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 01:11 PM
threeimpalas
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Bumping this thread for reference.
post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 03:07 PM
AutocroSSer
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And also as "reference".....I intend to try more (as in, about -1.5) of negative camber for Tulsa. I'll also toe-out the car about 1/8" (static), doing so only in Tulsa (so I get at least reasonable tire wear otherwise) since that should help turn-in.

Also just ordered another rear bar to play around with yesterday......I'm to that point where I'm fine tuning things. Plus is you get it REALLY where you want it.....downside is it isn't necessarily cheap to do so [img]smile.gif[/img]
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