Body lift from frame for upper/lower bushings??? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-08-2004, 03:23 PM
BillyBImpalaSS
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I'm planning on doing the upper and lower body bushing upgrade soon. I did a search and didn't really find specifics. I want to know "exactly" what/how the easiest way to replace these? I have access to a lift and floor jacks and a 3 ton jack, so I should have the tools. I've never done this and would like any specifics on walking me through it. Any suggestions, direction or guidance from experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Bill
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-09-2004, 03:14 PM
BillyBImpalaSS
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Come on guys, I need some help here....
post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-09-2004, 04:29 PM
Rustic
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I'm in the process of doing the same thing on a 95 9C1. My biggest problem was that most of the bolts were almost rusted through and broke off. I had to cut 4 holes in the passenger area and 4 in the trunk to access the ends of the bolts and get them out.

To separate the frame from the body I used 2 sets of jack stands and I'm doing the rear of the car first. I have one set of stands on the frame and then I used my floor jack and a 2 ft 2x4 running across the fuel tank area (my tank is out also) to lift the body. I then put my other set of jack stands under the body at the bottom of the rear quarters.

My plan is to replace the 6 or 8 rear most locations and the lower it back down and then do the fronts. This way they won't all be out at the same time and it will stay lined up.

Not sure if this is a good method unless your car is completely torn apart like mine is... but so far it's working for me.
 
post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-09-2004, 06:52 PM
Navy Lifer
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Bill,

You didn't say what replacement parts you are using.

The Factory Service Manual does contain a procedure for doing this job, if you have not seen it.

IF you are going to use factory body mount parts, recommend you use these parts from the 7B3 police car suspension:

THIS LIST IS THE UPPER CUSHIONS

Qty 4 348080 Pos 1 & 3

Qty 2 330986 Pos 2

Qty 6 330942 Pos 4, 6, 7

Qty 2 488610 Pos 5

Qty 2 14085301 bolt (for #3 position only)

Use the above bolt in place of the longer bolt used with the production #3 mount on the Impala SS and standard Caprice.

Also, for any position that has no lower cushion on the Impala SS (#3 for sure) the flat washer installed in production should be replaced with a complete lower cushion, either the "Mueller" part or another 377801 (OEM production) cushion, which is specified on all lower positions for production in 94-96 cars.

I don't have a solid recommendation beyond what the factory does on the lowers at the moment--which used the same parts on 9C1 and standard Impala/Caprice. I am not sure what, if anything, the Mueller lower cushions will do with 7B3 upper cushions, but it can't hurt, I suppose.
post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-09-2004, 06:59 PM
skovian
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Hello,

I swapped out uppers and lowers and didn't see much of an improvement but maybe I am looking for the wrong things. Anyway, I put the car up on four jackstands, two in front, two in back so that the whole car was in the air. I loosened one the bolts on one side and removed the bolts from the other. Then I took a four-foot two-by-four board and jacked the body off of the frame a little bit until I could replace all of the uppers on one side, lowered the body and did the lowers leaving the bolts finger tight, and then did the other side. When you do this, make sure that at least you loosen the radiator mounts so that you don't crack anything. Then when both sides are done, tighten the bolts to thirty-five pounds and you will be done. It took me about two hours to do this but I like to take a lot of breaks.

Good luck,

Michael
post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-10-2004, 05:29 AM
BillyBImpalaSS
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NavyLifer,
Thanks for the info. I did a search on the information before I ordered the parts from Dal yesterday. I read all your prior posts on the subject and ordered exactly what you've posted here. I love this form!!!!

Rustic and Skovian,
Thanks for the input. That's more the info I was after. One question...when you raised the body off the frame, did you have any alignment problems in lining up the bolts again once you replaced the bushings and lowered the car back down and tighten up everything?? There's only spots to unscrew to lift the body up a few inches, right (7 frame bolts and 1 radiator mount bolt)???
post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-10-2004, 06:44 AM
bbodyguy
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Rustic, you got me scared! I already have the car 20" off the ground for a T56, and a bunch of other things. I have the lower bushings, but am nervous about starting off on it. I do not want to run into a sheared/stuck bolt! The car has only seen one winter, and is fairly corrosion free, but I remember years ago, someone had a roadmaster on an island somewhere (?) and it cost him $$ to get out of the hole he dug.

I'm a pu$$y!

Peter
post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-10-2004, 02:30 PM
Rustic
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I don't think most cars would have the rust problems mine does.... this was a 165,000 mile northern Illinois State Patrol car. It has seen A LOT of salt in its life !!!

The "nuts" that GM uses for the bushing mounts are held in place on top of the body by a VERY flimsy metal cover strap. So in some of my bolt locations, even if the bolt looked to be in good shapt the "nut" would spin out of its holder. And as I said before... this resulted in 8 holes cut into my body... not just to get the old ones out... but also to have a way to get the new ones in.
post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-10-2004, 02:51 PM
bbodyguy
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O.K., so if one were parinoid, and cognizent of those nuts, would one be able to tell if it was going south at the begining of a wrench turn?

Or, would it be too late, and wind up having to kick the dog.....again.....

Peter
post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-10-2004, 03:05 PM
Brick B-Body
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Rustic,
I'd like to see any pics you have of the access holes you had to cut and the body to repair/replace the body mount nuts.
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