Don't know about "King", I'm a mere pauper compared to the suspension knowledge of some folks on this forum [img]smile.gif[/img]
That said : some ideas to try, with that swaybar (or lack thereof) constraint, would be
1. Shock settings. This will require HALs on the rear as well. But, I believe that with the right settings (stiffer in back, and a little softer in front) you'll be able to dial out some of the inherent understeer in the car.
2. Alignment : a little more static negative camber in front can really help in the "bite" that the outside front tire gets when going into a corner. And if done right, it shouldn't hurt the car much (if any) on the straight line stuff. Downside is that it'll wear out the insides of the front tires sooner.
3. Tires : a set of "sticky" DOT tires (i.e. Kumho Victoracers, Kumho Ecsta V700s, the new Nitto R tire) work great......not cheap and won't last long, but can stick like you wouldn't believe [img]smile.gif[/img]. All are available in 275/40R17, and at least the Victoracers work pretty well in the rain UNLESS you have DEEP standing water. My current AutoX tires are Victoracers in 275/40R17 on stock rims, and until the tread gets fairly worn they are completely safe for street driving. I would suspect that with street driving, you might get 8-10K out of a set, and they cost approx $160/tire new. For AutoX, I'll run them to the point that the tread is not only GONE, but the cords are showing (corded the last set at Impalafest last year when Tully and I co-drove his car in the AutoX there)
4. Global West Del-a-lum bushings up front in the lower and upper A arms. I know I keep pushing those bushings [img]smile.gif[/img], but they really DO work that well. It's pretty dramatic the improvement in transient response to steering inputs with them. I also suspect they are gonna help in drag racing as well, because you aren't fighting the bushing when you try and get the weight transfer on launch (translation : weight will transfer quicker). When installing these bushings, you can COMPLETELY torque them at any suspension setting (i.e. arm down, spring on the garage floor) and STILL move the arms freely.....try that with stock or poly bushings [img]smile.gif[/img].
That would be some good starting points.....
BTW, whatever happened to that "active" suspension idea you were throwing around last fall? Now THAT one sounds really interesting!