wheel alignment specs - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-13-2004, 11:39 PM
Jessman
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Hey guys, I'm new to the forum here. I heard about it from Mr.ed. (my bro) Anyway, I just purchased a 96 roadmaster wagon and was wondering if anyone has some good suggestions on wheel alignment specifications. My bro said that the stock alignmetn specs really suck and my car needs an alignment so I thought maybe someone could help me out here. If possible could you send me a link or even better the specs of what you have you cars set at.

Thanks in advance
JESSMAN
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-13-2004, 11:42 PM
Jessman
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by the way, I just wanted to let everyone know that I did try and search for this tiopic first, but came up short, please let me know if I missed it somewhere. I'm not all that great at searching for junk on the web, never get the right results. And I klnow how much you guys hate reposts, so sorry if I'm one of em.
post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 02:53 AM
AutocroSSer
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Are you looking just to drive the car, race it, or ????

Specs are different for each case.
 
post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 11:36 AM
Jessman
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good point, never thought of that. Just need to make it go straght for now, might eventually take it to the strip, but for now its my daily driver.

Thanks, jessman

P.S. if you could send specs for both it'd be really cool, otherwise just driving specs for now, thanks
post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 11:49 AM
AutocroSSer
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For a daily driver, I'd do -0.25 camber, +4.0 to +4.5 caster (dial in some cross caster if you have crowned roads), and 1/8" toe IN.

For handling on a street car, go up to -0.5 to -0.75 camber, other settings same. Should still get decent tire wear, and handle better.

For "all out" handling with tire life be damned, goto -1.0 or slightly more negative camber along with 0 toe (or even 1/16" toe OUT). It'll wear tires like mad, but boy will it handle well [img]smile.gif[/img]

Note that in addition to reduced tire life, the "handling" alignments can make the car wander more.

For a dragstrip car, I'd go 0 camber (or even slightly positive, so +0.25), and 1/8" toe-in.

Oh yeah, regardless of which alignment you get, be sure they do it WITH the driver's weight in the driver's seat (and if you have passengers 75% or more of the time, put the approx pass weights in those seats as well). Otherwise, the alignment will change when the car is actually being driven.
post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 12:11 PM
Jessman
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thanks so much for the prompt reply, that helps greatly, now i just need ot get a job since i just moved to VA from NJ and get soem tires, then will be set to go on teh alignment.


Thnaks again,
JESSMAN
post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-18-2004, 10:09 AM
Jim Spahr
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I have had the 'improved' spec's alignment on my 94 SS as recommended by the Old list and tech articles. The inside of the front tires wore like crazy. So this time when I purchased new front tires, I went back to the stock or factory specs alignment. Now, at interstate speeds, the car needs corrections constantly. It wanders like you are driving in a strong cross wind. Suspension is stock. Any suggestions?
post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-18-2004, 12:20 PM
AutocroSSer
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Jim : what are your actual numbers now? Without the numbers, advice here is gonna be pretty pointless.

One note : those "improved" specs ARE the factory specs, just to tighter tolerances. The specs I lised above are well within factory specs as well.
post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-18-2004, 05:15 PM
D.Grimm
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Yea, what Ed said. Align with drivers weight and normal fuel load.(Or 1/2 a tank to split the difference.) D.
post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-20-2004, 03:27 PM
Jim Spahr
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I hate to admit this. I went to the tire dealer and got an alignment, but didn't get a print out sheet.
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