LT1 stroker standard bore (377) - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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LT1 stroker standard bore (377)

Been looking on the net for 377 stroker kit but only see 383 kits. Anyone make kits with the stock bore or must it be pieced together?

There is hardly any wear, even measured it. Only about .002 wear top to bottom.

96 9C1 LT1 with all the bolt on crap (Gone 1/08 to 9C1 heaven aka junkyard!)
95 9C1 LT1 New toy as of 6/09 (this one is now heading same direction as the 96)
95 9C1 LT1 The new black mariah! SOLD
95 9C1 LT1 Will be my whenever I get it done project!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 10:59 PM
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Pistons and/or rods will be different because of the longer stroke to maintain compression ratio.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 01:13 PM
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Pistons and/or rods will be different because of the longer stroke to maintain compression ratio.
^^, yep

Op, I would go 6" rod and a shorter piston. I have SRP pistons but mine are .030 over as I did bore .030 with the stroker crank to get the 383

\'96 BBB 383/T-56
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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The problem is every kit I see is for a .030 overbore. I don't want to waste money boring it oversize if it doesn't need it. This sucks.

Update: Just saw an old post the Nab posted that has Summit selling a kit. Happy, happy!

96 9C1 LT1 with all the bolt on crap (Gone 1/08 to 9C1 heaven aka junkyard!)
95 9C1 LT1 New toy as of 6/09 (this one is now heading same direction as the 96)
95 9C1 LT1 The new black mariah! SOLD
95 9C1 LT1 Will be my whenever I get it done project!
94 Caprice

04 GTO SOLD

Quote:
Originally Posted by BewbZowt(+ Y +)
Here's how it works: If I can see them, they are real.

Last edited by JZ9C1LT1; 05-18-2019 at 09:20 PM.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 09:21 PM
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It will cost you just about as much to just stroke it. I do not know how readily available the correct pistons and rods are, and if they will be a premium price, whereas the pistons and rods are readily available for the 383 conversion. You need to check the availability of the parts before making a decision.

1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, Impala rims, Hydroboost, Recaros, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 02:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JZ9C1LT1 View Post
Been looking on the net for 377 stroker kit but only see 383 kits. Anyone make kits with the stock bore or must it be pieced together?

There is hardly any wear, even measured it. Only about .002 wear top to bottom.
Now tell us how out of round the cylinders are.

1996 DGGM Impala SS
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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4x4high;

I checked the bores 90 degree apart and had a total of .002 on the bores.

Fred;

Summit and Jegs has the complete 377 stroker kit for just over 1K (piston, rods, and crank).

96 9C1 LT1 with all the bolt on crap (Gone 1/08 to 9C1 heaven aka junkyard!)
95 9C1 LT1 New toy as of 6/09 (this one is now heading same direction as the 96)
95 9C1 LT1 The new black mariah! SOLD
95 9C1 LT1 Will be my whenever I get it done project!
94 Caprice

04 GTO SOLD

Quote:
Originally Posted by BewbZowt(+ Y +)
Here's how it works: If I can see them, they are real.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JZ9C1LT1 View Post
Been looking on the net for 377 stroker kit but only see 383 kits. Anyone make kits with the stock bore or must it be pieced together?

There is hardly any wear, even measured it. Only about .002 wear top to bottom.
Unless you're on a really on a tight budget, I'd say go ahead and bore it over .030".

Should cost you about $250 or so.

KW

1996 BBB SS, 398ci Solid Roller LT4, TorqHead 24x Conversion


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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 01:43 PM
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^^^, yep OP

You are buying the crank, rods and pistons so the only extra cost is machine work to go .030 over (IMHO this would REALLY clean up cyl walls also) and you get more C.I. which always= more HP/TQ


I would do the .030 over bore and line hone and get new cam bearings installed. You are deep into a rebuild..go the distance

I hope you are not getting a cast stroker crank.....I am a member of the 2 piece cast stroker crank club (Eagle)….go forged crank and even still stay away from Eagle IMHO.

\'96 BBB 383/T-56
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 03:32 PM
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I agree with what everyone else has written. You're putting XX amount into the entire build, at this point, what's an additional ~$240 (Approx $30 a hole for bore & hone) to ensure you have a killer build?

I can understand doing things on a budget, but this is such a minor expense, it makes just good sense in engine building for the long term.

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