Removing AIR pump check valve from manifold pipe - Chevy Impala SS Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
AP9
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Removing AIR pump check valve from manifold pipe

I'm trying to get my exhaust manifolds off, and have run into a bit of a hiccup thanks to the wonderful AIR pump system. I was able to get the fitting from the pipe to the manifolds to loosen without issue on both sides, so I just detached the hose and spun the whole thing off on the driver's side, check valve still attached. But the passenger-side is a bit more challenging, since there's about a 3 or 4 inch length of hard pipe before the check valve -- even if I remove the oil dipstick tube it will interfere with the valve cover after about 270 degrees of loosening.



Even with a Kroil soak I can't get the thing to budge, in fact it's starting to round the corners. The service manual doesn't really show (in fact, looks like some of the graphics show the previous style exhaust manifold from before late-95), the Haynes manual has even less information, and I can't find the answer in any previous threads other than "delete the whole thing"


I need a sanity check: It is the "nut" with a 1" hex, that should be loosened from the fitting on the pipe connecting to the exhaust manifold with a 7/8" hex, right-hand thread, correct? Am I supposed to torch the thing or use flare wrenches instead of open-end wrenches?






edit:
Never mind, of course it is. I just needed to give the Kroil some more soak time. Definitely going to replace those check valves while I'm at it, took a little bit of paint off of them and one had some burnt crap (carbon deposits, presumably) in the exhaust side.

1996 Chevrolet Impala SS - Dark Cherry Metallic (77U/WA9800)
Stealth bolt mod, 2.5" X-pipe with Pypes Street Pro mufflers & Dynomax resonators, WeatherTech side window deflectors, Hayden 678 "tertiary" transmission cooler & Magnefine inline filter, 9C1 power steering cooling loop, otherwise completely stock

2000 Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (4.0L OHV V6) - Amazon Green Metallic (SU)

2018 Toyota 4Runner TRD Off-Road Premium - Nautical Blue Metallic (8S6)

Last edited by AP9; 08-10-2019 at 08:51 PM.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 04:27 AM
MWP
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If you don't have a specific reason for keeping the AIR system, you might consider deleting it. Makes life much easier.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 04:56 AM
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+1
I didn't think IL has especially tough visual that the AIR components have to remain in the car. If so, the 'AIR DELETE' decal is worth a try. Pretty good intel on the replacement fittings for the different years:
https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...-air-pump.html

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
AP9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Black View Post
+1
I didn't think IL has especially tough visual that the AIR components have to remain in the car. If so, the 'AIR DELETE' decal is worth a try. Pretty good intel on the replacement fittings for the different years:
https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...-air-pump.html

Yeah, all they do here is OBDII scan and record your odometer. (In fact, back in 2016 when I had a small vacuum leak I actually threw a lean code + MIL on my way to the test facility, but I cleared it with my ScanGauge II and the system showed "Ready" right away so I passed )
The ECM re-flash isn't a DIY job without special equipment though, is it?

1996 Chevrolet Impala SS - Dark Cherry Metallic (77U/WA9800)
Stealth bolt mod, 2.5" X-pipe with Pypes Street Pro mufflers & Dynomax resonators, WeatherTech side window deflectors, Hayden 678 "tertiary" transmission cooler & Magnefine inline filter, 9C1 power steering cooling loop, otherwise completely stock

2000 Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (4.0L OHV V6) - Amazon Green Metallic (SU)

2018 Toyota 4Runner TRD Off-Road Premium - Nautical Blue Metallic (8S6)
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 09:12 AM
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ECM tuning is just a matter of a laptop, special cable and software (some available free). and alot of caution/care until practiced or add in a new motor. LOL I rely on tuners with good rep, and just recently got numerous simple things treated together, -- tire dia., speedo limiter, tranny pressures, thermostat, fans, 'performance level', senseless P0336 code, AIR, ..... This forum has an app for that. - I mean section

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Black View Post
+1
I didn't think IL has especially tough visual that the AIR components have to remain in the car. If so, the 'AIR DELETE' decal is worth a try. ]
if you are talking about the counterfeit decals that say "delete"....but the GM "real" one says "disable"....so depending on how the emission laws are in ones state you should confirm first before removing "emission" components.

CA, for example, you can not "legally" remove them. Some smog shops may not care as long as the car passes emission tests otherwise.

pic of real decal:
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\'96 BBB 383/T-56
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 02:59 PM
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Exactamundo. There was a time when they were "a thing" in hopes of throwing off unwitting inspectors. I think you can print them off Avery forms now FWIW. I always figured a mech. with an inspection cert. had to be pretty competent. So, in states without 'super silly strict' visual they probably either just chuckled at the ruse or outright Didn'tGAS - at least as long as not a '96 and not showing the code.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 10:50 AM
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I run the car for 5 minutes at 1500-2000 RPM, letting heat from the engine heat up the fittings. The two metals are different and the cast iron expands rapidly. Then they come off much easier. Using a torch takes longer since the cast iron manifolds sink the heat.

When deleting the system, I just cut the pipes and use a large 6-point socket and breaker bar.

As for keeping the system installed, the solenoid valve always goes bad in the AIR pump itself. When it goes bad, it lets fresh air leak into the manifolds, throwing off the O2 readings, making the engine run rich at times. The carbon in the pipes could be a symptom of this. As long as it doesn't set a code, I'd cap off the AIR pump intake and exhaust ports and shove the pipe over the cap giving the illusion that it's still hooked up properly. On OBDI cars, you can just unplug the AIR pump after doing this. If ODBII cars throw a code, then leave it plugged in. There are probably other creative ways to do this. But the goal is to leave the system looking stock without letting in any fresh air.

-- Tom
2011 Caprice PPV
1995 Impala SS
1994 Caprice 9C1 LT1
1995 Caprice 9C1 LT1
1995 Caprice Wagon
1972 Chrysler Newport 2-door
1969 C30 Flatbed
1969 Dodge Charger


Last edited by storm9c1; Yesterday at 10:54 AM.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 03:40 PM
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 05:14 PM
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Hahaha most excellent vid fershur

"bad blade"
"wrong wrench"
"that was easy" - said no one removing the tube ever in history

Actually not a bad vid for a 1st timer. Perfect display though of blessings to be had with a decent tool collection = line wrenches, box/ends. But he gotterdon.

BTW I stuck all the connectors in a zip-tied baggie. 8 years later it looks like a custom little shrinkwrapped ball. And did he leave one bolt and part of the plug wire supports? Finally, perfect time to do the throttle body hose delete while AF is already dripping everywhere.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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