FlexForce Line wrench? - Page 2 - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 01:39 PM
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If it's that tight leverage isn't the issue.
Frozen lines need a "shock" to break loose.
Heat, tiny vice grip and smack it somehow with something to break loose or just cut fitting off.

You can get long fittings new and just reflare after if trying to save hard line.

You've got the axle hanging for as much room as you can get right?
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gbhs72 View Post
It was just a thought. If it were me, I think I would break out the BFH and prepare to replace it all. As you have said several times, 51 year old car. Those lines may need to be retired anyway.
Mark: Snowman-33
Well Mark if this car was not in such great shape I would. Car is untouched underneath, no undercoat and no rust anywhere. The line itself looks fine as does the connection. It is a one piece "home run" line that runs from distribution block under MC to back end along frame rail. Car was restored by PO in terms of paint/body/interior/engine on a car that appears to have led a well pampered, garaged, western US car

There are likely repop lines available but this is one looooong line. Longest on car and I really don't want to splice it. Worst case I would cut the fitting, re-flare that end with a new flare nut. The flex line that attaches to it gives me some wiggle room but I likely would need to re-mount the bracket both hard/soft line attach to if I cut the end to re-flare it. Of course getting a flare tool in the area may prove to be a bigger issue.

the 3 factors on this is the location is hard access,the fitting is frozen and so far flare wrench and vice grips, heat and PB are not doing it. Primarily because no tool grips enough on the fitting and with the vice grips I just can't get the angle needed to apply them properly

I bent over and ordered the line tools from ebay….will see if they do the trick. The video demo shows how they clamp tighter the more force is applied and it is a 6 sided end for the fitting unlike a flare wrench

The OER 6020 6 sided vice grips are also available,,,,similar $ but I can't get vice grips in there at a perpendicular angle to correctly go "around" the fitting

this is not the 1st "specialty" tool I have purchased....ideally it works

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 03:04 PM
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Without actually being there and seeing it I think I understand. I was just giving some of my ideas of getting it off. I DO know how something that should be a minor fix turns into a major ReDo. Bright side. You got more tools. Hope they do the trick for you. Keep us in the loop. On a side note. I got my TIG welder in yesterday and the plasma cutter is coming today. I bought another welder cart this morning. Tools, ahhhhhh!!!!!

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93 9C1: Work & Cubic Ca$h This started with a new headlight and fender Celeritas In Conficiendo
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag View Post
If it's that tight leverage isn't the issue.
Frozen lines need a "shock" to break loose.
Heat, tiny vice grip and smack it somehow with something to break loose or just cut fitting off.

You can get long fittings new and just reflare after if trying to save hard line.

You've got the axle hanging for as much room as you can get right?
+1 on the shock treatment - like an impact wrench does. In both directions.

Call your local Snap On, Matco, Mac, Cornwell, etc. guy. There is such a thing as extra long 11mm flare wrench and swivel flare wrench.

I would never use vice grips here because besides buggering up the external fitting it can cause an internal egg shape of the fitting in the housing.

Pics of the offending area would help to see how much access you have.

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1994 RMW 80K, clear corners, Gary's cables - battery, headlight, mech fan delete, air pump delete, home plate/first base delete, Bill Harper wiper arm mod, Corvette starter, 1LE elbow, Team SS pipe, K&N filter swiss cheese airbox, throttle body bypass, LED headlights.

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Last edited by grandpas wagon; 03-08-2019 at 04:20 PM.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by grandpas wagon View Post
+1 on the shock treatment - like an impact wrench does. In both directions.

Call your local Snap On, Matco, Mac, Cornwell, etc. guy. There is such a thing as extra long 11mm flare wrench and swivel flare wrench.

I would never use vice grips here because besides buggering up the external fitting it can cause an internal egg shape of the fitting in the housing.
The main issue is a flare wrench, crows foot wrench in either 7/16 or 11 mm is to sloppy and will just round off flare nut. "shocking" either will only cause carnage on the flare nut. I have even used vice grips on the jaws of the flare wrench to keep it from expanding but no....it still fits to lose. Thought about filing down a 10mm and test fit a super snug flare but decided to buy the flex wrench

Snap-On sells the flex wrench (their logo) but the company that makes them sells the tool under their name on ebay...for a lot less $

agree over zealous vice grip will ruin the flare nut unless you use the OER one with the 6 sided jaw for line wrench...but again getting the tool on the flare nut correctly is a issue because of space

So the $77 plan is to wait for the flex wrench to show up in a few days and try again. They don't sell just a single wrench so I have to buy the 4 wrench set. Like my Kent Moore harmonic balancer remove/install tool and RMS install tool they are seldom used but make those jobs Soooo plug & play I am hopeful this design on line wrench does the trick
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 06:31 PM
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I now see in your OP that it is already rounded off. A proper size flare wrench on an unmolested fitting will not round off. 5 points of contact is sufficient. Let us know the outcome. Still would like to see pics.

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1994 RMW 80K, clear corners, Gary's cables - battery, headlight, mech fan delete, air pump delete, home plate/first base delete, Bill Harper wiper arm mod, Corvette starter, 1LE elbow, Team SS pipe, K&N filter swiss cheese airbox, throttle body bypass, LED headlights.

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 06:40 PM
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Snap off makes flare sockets which are neat but kinda sorta expensive. I saw some awhile back in SAE but I have no need. Big flat jaw vise grips work fine and you won't ding up the fitting. You will put some impressions on it. But. If its stuck just cut and replace, Faster and easier



I thnk once I put rag over my snap off flare wrenches and put a vise grip over them so i had less flex. Worked well.

Car still works MOD
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4DoorSS View Post
Not seen those Snapon wrenches before so can't say how well they work. If the fittings are chewed up, I've just used vice grips with good results.

Another tool to check out if you've not seen them before are these....


Pretty cool tool and I like they grip all 6 sides of the fitting.
Looks like an awesome idea, I’d love to hear from someone who has used one.
Looks like it would work better than the Flex Force tool...

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Last edited by SoCalChlln; 03-14-2019 at 12:45 AM.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 12:44 AM
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I’ve used vice grips and healthy channel locks to get rounded brake fitting loosened.
I’m sure you’ve probably already tried both of those.
File opposite sides of the rounded fitting flat so you can get an open end wrench or channel locks/vice grips that can get a better grip on the larger filed flats, instead of the rounded corners.
I’ve done that before also.

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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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Guys appreciate the "alternate" methods suggested....did them. Not my first rodeo.

So the Flex Wrench showed up. Nice tool. Tried it with a 3/8" breaker bar and I could see even with the "more force the tighter the wrench gets"....it was slipping. Granted the fitting was not perfect but not rounded out either.

With the Flex Wrench on I was able to get a WAY solid bite on the tool with vice grips to compress it on the fitting. Still had to use the breaker bar and a 5/8" wrench to counter turn on the rubber line but it broke lose. Fitting unscrewed easily from that point. Fitting was not buggered enough to prevent a flare wrench from tightening it to new line

These Flex Wrenches will join the other tools in my box for the next "flare wrench/vice grips/torch" will not get off. YMMV

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