ABS delete, final parts list (suggestions?) - Chevy Impala SS Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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ABS delete, final parts list (suggestions?)

Hey guys, working on the brake plumbing on my 96. I purchased a set of beautiful Inline Tube stainless hard lines some years back. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to use the main/rear line as my boxed chassis and fuel system mounting points made it so that it wouldn’t even be worth trying to work with it.

Instead I ordered a roll of 1/4 NiCopp line and i’ll be making a new rear line.

I called up Inline and they told me their whole kit uses standard line with metric fittings, so it looks like it shouldn’t be an issue just converting all my union points for the ABS delete over to standard. Just wanted to give a run down of my parts list and see if anyone has any suggestions, concerns or ideas for better quality parts.


For the rear line, i’m going to double flare both lines and use 1/4 stainless flare nuts with a brass inverted flare union.
I know that since i’m making a new main line I could just make extend to the prob valve, but I don’t want half my lines being a different color so I figure I could hide the one nicopp line near the chassis. This way everything in the engine bay is stainless and uniform.

For the rear, i’m going to double flare the three front lines, use 3/16 stainless flare nuts and run them to a brass 3/16 inverted 3 way block.

Debating about running an adjustable proportioning valve while i’m there since to take advantage of the massive Kore 3 rear brakes (ended up going with the largest rotor I could fit in the rear after some minor shaving of the c6 calipers, and the rotors are actually larger than the front c5 rotors. I know this is as backwards, but my logic was at some point I will upgrade to 18’s and run a larger rotor up front).

I’d rather just do the stealth bolt, little worried about the long term reliability of an adjustable proportioning valve on an almost daily driver and would rather not have to wrestle with the stainless lines that already fit nicely with the factory prop valve what do you guys think?

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 06:05 PM
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Those fittings are exactly the same as I used on mine. Got it all off the shelf at Autozone.


1995 Caprice Wagon
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 07:17 PM
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I kinda lean toward putting braided SS lines from the master cylinder to the block. I know you've got all the parts collected. The coup de gras !!!!

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 06:18 AM
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I'll be looking to do away with the ABS Pump and lines to convert over to a Basic Line setup soon. Not sure of my timing for this as it falls maybe to Project #2 or #3 of things I want to do first. It will be somepoint this year but could drag out until Winter...we'll see.

Just curious to see what options are out there "off the shelf" and what may have to be pieced together to finally clean up the engine bay of a non-working ABS unit. I seem to remember there was some discussion of 1 of the line companies putting together a "ABS Delete" line setup for us b-body guys but not sure if that ever happened. The reality I guess is just moving some lines and connections around but a off the shelf delete setup would be way cleaner/simpler.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 06:30 AM
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Kris, SSandman, was the one who started asking about an ABS delete set up. It would be nice to have a set such as that but then there is a deviation from stock because of the boxing of the frame. That leaves us with a "Roll your own" setup. I too will have to make my own for my project. I had intended to use NiCop on mine but now am sort of nodding to the SS hard lines. I've bought the tools to straighten and form the lines. Sooooooo.

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 06:25 PM
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The best tip I can offer is to start with disconnecting the rear brake line/fitting from the proportion valve. Cut line to recover that fitting that came off to slide over the rear brake line coming from the ABS unit leading to rear brakes. Carefully measure,and bend line from rear brakes that will end up at the same proportion block port when finished. When satisfied with the relative proximity. Cut line,slide old fitting on,and apply a bubble flare using appropriate tool. Align with prop valve port,and attach. Now,a significant part is done along with potential areas of confusion are gone.... All that remains are the front brakes. I used a Hurst Roll-Control to tee the front brakes together since that line-loc has multiple outlet ports.

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