11. Taped off recessed bores of brackets, prepped/cleaned brackets and completely coated w/ Duplicolor caliper aerosol paint (black).
12. After caliper paint has dried and cured, threaded the 2 banjo bolts w/ 2 new crush washers each (Al is OK. Cu apparently better) into the brake line fittings on the calipers a few turns. Don’t tighten. This is merely to prevent contaminants from possibly entering the caliper housing.
(2) Speedbleeders # SB1010 (M10 x 1.0)
13. Some use them. Some don’t. I do. Threaded the speedbleeders into the bleeder screw fittings. Be very careful when threading the bleeders and banjos into the calipers. What w/ the time and expense of coating the calipers, they’ll be w/ the car for the duration. All future rebuilds will need to be done by you or the shop of your choosing. I’m sure not going to be sending THESE cores back to A1 Cardone, warranty or not. Therefore, the threaded fittings must stay clean and true. Should one become stripped, there are some options, but none better than being careful not to strip them in the 1st place.
14. Coated both sides of the H clips retained earlier w/ Bendix Ceramlub (see Note 2). Assembled the H Clips into the calipers. The long side should point to the piston (I didn’t really expect you to remember that from earlier. If you did, give yourself a cookie). This allows full travel of the piston and pad during caliper engagement.
*Note 2 – My use of this product I credit to Bill Harper, aka “Navylifer”, who moderates the Brakes section of the ISSCA forum. Effective temperature range from -70 to +2500 degrees Fahrenheit w/ negligible washout. This product is, at present, unequalled. Although I haven’t used it long enough to give a long term critique, it’s the ability to withstand washout that I’m most enthusiastic about. That it can withstand 2500 degrees is nice, but altogether unnecessary and overkill.
15. Boot and slider assemblies; using Ceramlub, filled the 4 rubber boots about halfway and completely coated the ends of the 4 slider pins that recess submersed within the bracket. Reinstalled slider pin/boot assemblies in brackets and insured proper seal of boots to brackets. Don’t fill the boots completely as there has to be some air inside to allow for proper expansion and contraction of the calipers on the brackets. Coating the slider pins should prevent/severely curtail the oxidation that will inevitably result from the pins’ exposure to this air.
16. Using Ceramlub, coat the bracket guide channels that will directly abut the pads. Just a dab will do you here, however be alert this is a trouble spot due to the direct metal to metal grind that constantly, and sometimes violently, occurs between the hard pad backing plate and the bracket. If you’re going to do periodic maintenance, this would be a place to check and/or relubricate often.
(2) Centric Premium rear rotors #120.62053
17. No slots. No holes. Just metal. More about Centric Parts in the addendum to this procedure.
18. The hat (both back and front) and vented edges came e-coated (electrostatically coated). Unnecessary perhaps, but I added another layer of Duplicolor Caliper aerosol paint (black). Go to town painting them, but insure ALL residual overspray onto the rotor surface is completely removed and cleaned prior to final install.
19. At vehicle, insured parking brake wasn’t set and removed old rotors from axle. Mine weren’t frozen to the axle w/ rust, but in case this happens, spray around base of lug nuts and around axle flange/rotor juncture w/ penetrating oil and turn rotor by hand. This allows gravity to help the penetrating oil spread. If it still won’t budge, use the BFH (3 lb sledge or ball peen work best) as persuasion. Direct the blows between the lug nuts staggering blows in criss-cross fashion similar to lug nut tightening sequence. Don’t hit the lugs! Hit anything BUT the lugs (particularly if the rotor is being trashed/recycled back to Asia). If this doesn’t work, once more w/ penetrating oil and let sit awhile (overnight if possible). Repeat until dislodged. Once rotors are removed, clean all oxidized surfaces of the axle flanges thoroughly w/ emory cloth until smooth and true. You hit a lug didn’t you? Now’s the time to replace it. Want to insure you’ll never have to go through THAT again? See Note 3.
* Note 3 – Apply an even layer of the Ceramlub over the entire axle flange that abuts the inside of the rotor. Works better than the old school silicone spray treatment and will promote a clean, true surface for the rotor to rotate against which, in turn, should be beneficial to the overall effectiveness and longevity of the calipers and pads as well. Dpn’t get the Ceramlub on the lug nut threads!
* Note 4 - Believe it or not, standard rubber tire stem caps filled w/ RTV sealant will effectively seal your brake hard lines during the disassembly process. Just remove them from your wheels, clean and dry the inside, dab them w/ RTV and push them over the leaking hard line. This will prevent the master cylinder from draining completely and creating a new and improved headache. Probably better ways to do this, but this was free and effective. Afterwards, pull the caps off, remove the RTV (will now be solid and easy to get off), clean them and put them back on the wheels.
(1) set Earl’s 5 piece braided stainless steel flex line kit # 28A140ERL
20. Stainless flex lines covered later in the installation section.
Last edited by SEO9C1; 08-09-2009 at 09:18 AM.