Join Date: May 2003
Location: Eastern North Carolina
I find the easy way is to open the hood unplug the underhood cruise module and check the switch from the plug. This also checks the wire.
I do not like wasting time with the two screws and eight bolts to get to the switches then working under the dash.
If the switch is working why risk breaking it by removing it?
I hear you. I was mistaken earlier. I double checked the flowchart and everything checked out, down to the PCM connector B terminal 8 showing ~7 volts (actually was a bit high, but I think my voltmeter 'zero' is off.
The manual says if all that checks out to do that manual test of starting car, putting cruise into run position, then waiting three seconds, push set and R/A together and hold, while depressing and holding brake pedal for 10 seconds. Release brake pedal and see if RPM jumps slightly. Mine did not, so it looks like my cruise control module is toast. Suppose I could swap out the one in my 96RMW with the one in the 95 Impala, but pretty sure it is the module. Likely something in the solid state/integrated circuit board?
'95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster.
'96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock.
74 Ford F100, 390 HP pulled out of a 67 Fairlane GT
91 Mustang LX notchback, 5.0L, 63,000 miles, pristine.