Brake light problem - Chevy Impala SS Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-27-2016, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Brake light problem

The Stop/Hazard fuse blows every time I hit the brakes. The brake lights come on for a second, but then the fuse pops. Turn signals and Hazards work fine.
So I believe it is a short in the white wire between the brake pedal switch and the turn signal switch or the cruise control, ABS and remote door lock unit per the diagram for 96 Caprices. Shows the white wire going to all of these. Not sure if that's the same as my 94 RMW.

Anyone know where the white wire from the pedal switch splits into 4 white wires?

Any clue as to problem areas in the harness that might cause this?

My 17 year old son has been driving for a month without brake lights!!

94 RMW DGGM, 321K, S10 TC, TB bypass, PCM for less, 1LE elbow,airbox mod, DynoMax Cat back, 18x9, 275/40/18, AirLift bags, tow pkg, mech fan delte, Alum drvshft,
90 Camaro Conv, White, Black top/int., LO3, T5, 3.42 Eaton Posi, 12" Baer brakes in rear, 6 point cage, Paxton SN92 blower, IROC #650 wheels
06 Escalade Platinum ESV Black/Cream int., 3.73, TB bypass
88 GMC Jimmy, white w/wht cap, auto, 4WD, LO5, NP208, 3.73
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-27-2016, 02:14 PM
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OOo That's gonna leave a mark - on his license

Unless you're already using a diagram as detailed as the Stickies, then go to #3 here:
https://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...-diagrams.html

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!

Last edited by 96 Black; 06-27-2016 at 02:17 PM.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-27-2016, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks,
that's where I looked already and only found the Brake light circuit for a 96 sedan. I suppose it could be the same.

Wish someone had this problem before. Digging around under the dash is a giant PITA. Trying to avoid it at all costs.

Maybe the remote lock unit harness is in a rust prone area?

94 RMW DGGM, 321K, S10 TC, TB bypass, PCM for less, 1LE elbow,airbox mod, DynoMax Cat back, 18x9, 275/40/18, AirLift bags, tow pkg, mech fan delte, Alum drvshft,
90 Camaro Conv, White, Black top/int., LO3, T5, 3.42 Eaton Posi, 12" Baer brakes in rear, 6 point cage, Paxton SN92 blower, IROC #650 wheels
06 Escalade Platinum ESV Black/Cream int., 3.73, TB bypass
88 GMC Jimmy, white w/wht cap, auto, 4WD, LO5, NP208, 3.73
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 03:34 AM
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I had the same issue with a '92 OCC. Turned out the problem was under the left rear speaker. The PO must have changed the speaker or did something else in that area and pinched the feed wire going to the back upon reassembly. It must have taken a while for the wire to wear through the insulation because I had owned it for a while before it happened.

Try pulling off all the left interior panels and tracing the wire harness bundle looking for something that could cause a short in the brake light circuit. Also check the wiring going from the left to the right side taillights and any trailer lamp wiring if equipped.

Good luck.

Jim

Jim Morris
866 South 75th Street
West Allis, Wisconsin 53214-3013 USA
414-774-8898, [email protected]
'91 OCC daily driver,
'92 OCC, Hurst Olds wannabee,
'92 OCC #4344 of 4347
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 04:51 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I looked under the rear seat and wheel well
a little yesterday. Only thing is the hazards work fine as long as the fuse isn't blown yet from hitting the brakes and blinkers work too even if the stop/hazard fuse is blown. I disconnected the trailer harness a week ago. It's gotta be a short in the white wire I think or.......can it be the turn signal switch?
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 05:48 AM
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Maybe try to isolate the circuit a little more. Using your schematic, try to meter from the connector plug pin of the "Hotwire" to ground. This is most likely causing your short.

If you find that is what is shorted, try to disconnect other plugs in the circuit (i.e. - plug at the trunk) and see if the short is still up front of the car, if not, then it must be in the tails section somewhere. At least you can narrow down your search a little more. But your only option may be to physically trace the harness til you find the bad wiring. Good luck.

================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 04:33 PM
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You are grounding the hot wire before it gets to the lights. You may find it where the wire harness goes under the carpet at your left foot. There are connectors for the body harness behind the kick panel on the driver's side. To pull the kick panel, you must remove the door sill. That will also give you access to the wiring under the carpet by your left foot. Isolate the circuit as close to the brake switch as possible, and work back from there. It could also be the yellow wire for the third brake light circuit. If that has a short in it, it will also affect the same fuse.

1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, Impala rims, Hydroboost, Recaros, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-03-2016, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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I figured it out!!!
After following white wires to the remote lock controller and ABS unit to no avail, it occured to me to check out the CHMSL. I had removed the guts out of it 2-3 years ago after damaging the window handle from hoisting an engine out of the back......etc.

So the two copper contacts on the tailgate finally rubbed through the paint of the CHMSL bracket and made a connection to ground.
Sorry for the wild goose chase. Should've looked there first. I knew the GM harness wasn't going to **** and grounding out somewhere. None of the wires looked even close to dry rotting or rubbed bare.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-07-2016, 02:01 PM
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Roger, and thanks for looping back with the fix. It's always either something simple, or unfathomable. Often both.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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