One more question - does $eeHack have a VATS select/ECM switch capability? I know it has some controls but limited writing.
I have not tried $EEHack. It sounds great but he explains that he adds code to the PCM and stores extra information as well. Since I am not sure that Tunner Cat will erase or write over the extras I will only try it on a spare PCM.
should leave the yellow wire attached at the starter or disconnect it? and basically just 'jumper' the two connections at the starter (heavy wire from the B+ connector to the switch connector)
Yes leave the yellow wire attached at the starter.Yes just 'jumper' the two connections. Please read the ramblings below for extra information.
When I was checking in the injector information I found a easy way if you have a scan tool. The VATS fault will not turn on the MIL light But it will set DCT 46 (OBDI 46) If you find this you will have to work your way through the VATS circuit.
The other quick test is to unplug the key cylinder from the VATS. The VATS should let you start and run the engine then.
If you can not scan it what I am suggesting is a $0.10 bump switch.
In the good old days when things were simple we needed to rotate the engine to adjust valves, find top dead center, ect.
We would go to Sears or K-Mart (or Snap-On) and get a pre-made switch with wires with electrical clips on the wires. Clip one to the battery and the other to the starter solenoid. Push the button and the engine would crank. If the ignition switch was on run the engine would start.
The $0.10 version is a 4 inch piece of 12 ga wire. Gloves and glasses for safety. Prep the car for starting, then set the ignition to run, Press one copper wire end on the starter's battery stud. Get ready for cranking and press the other copper end to the solenoid's stud on the starter. (sparks will fly do not worry) Hold the wire firm. Remove wire when the engine starts.(or not) Touching the wire to anything else will heat the wire and may start a fire.
You do not have to remove any wires from the starter.
In the bad old days before column locks and computers thieves would clip a wire to the battery and clip the other end to the spark coil. Under the car they would jam a wrench on the two starter studs. The engine starts and the car disappears.
If you do not think this is safe ask some one who works on old cars for a starter/bump switch. They were also part of a kit that would have a dwell/tac meter, and a timing light.
The idea is to totally bypass the starter circuit. The wire is your very crude starter switch.
Touch the wire, engine starts, and you know that the VATS is sending the PWM signal to the PCM which allows the PCM to run the fuel injectors. No VATS signal it may start but it will stall.(no fuel injection after cranking)
If it starts you will still have to sort out what is not passing the start signal. In your case you can start at the column switch, check the clutch switch, and (hardest) check at the VATS/starter relay.
Click on this:
Look at starting circuit and pass-key diagrams on Goldsswagon's site.