Anything with a battery directly connected is DC.
So multimeter set to DC auto range or a range over 15 volts (20?)
If you have a test light it is better for car work.
Red lead to the red wire on the headlight switch. It must not touch anything else. This wire does not have a fuse, if it shorts out it will burn out a hard to replace fusible link.
Black lead needs to go to ground. All the sheet metal in the car is ground, BUT it is covered by paint. The two easy spots to ground to are: The bare metal brace around the fuse holders. Driver's side door open, cover off the fuse panel on the end of the dash. The second easy one is the exposed metal around the cigarette lighter.
If there is about 12 volts on the red wire, repeat the test on the yellow wire with the headlight switch on. If there is power there you will have to check the High/Low beam switch at the bottom of the steering column like I suggested in the last post.
When I get "no headlights" on someone car I start with a spare bulb. I started doing a bulb swap or voltage check at the headlight after someone burnt out all the high and low beams before bring it to me. Wasted hours testing the circuit before I figured out the owner had run the headlight bulbs into the ground.
As with anything on the internet do not do anything you are not sure of.
Last edited by Z09B4U; 08-25-2017 at 09:25 PM.