Pass key fault issue... - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2018, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Pass key fault issue...

So I have been on here for three hours ready posts about the subject bu I am still stuck. I have a 94 Fleetwood with 171K, I have had the key resistor bypass installed since I bought the car 8/2015, car stopped starting last night. I checked the bypass and its still putting out the proper ohm value. Unhook the battery to clean the cables, hook it back up and still no crank, plus I find two error codes under the CCM in the trunk: #31 PASS KEY FAULT telltale circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
#43 Key resistor circuit (circuit open or shorted to battery)
So at this point I'm not sure how to fix it, my brain is mush after hours of googling only to find 1000's of hits on how to bypass the key but not my issue. There is a 94 in the local pick n pull, could I pull the CCM from it and install in mine or is like the PCM where it has to be reprogrammed if its from a different car?

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2018, 09:37 PM
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Wonder if it's the VATS resistor or VATS module itself?
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2018, 10:03 PM
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https://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...l#post12044786

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2018, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonlachapelle View Post
I already read that thread but I'm still stuck. I have already done the resistor bypass on the column, worked fine for two years, checked it and it still reads the proper 523ohm. The codes say its an issue in the CCM.

If I put the key in and turn to on position the pass light will turn off after a few seconds, try to start and nothing, light stays off.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2018, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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I was just thinking, if the CCM is associated with the key's resistor value, since I have my key bypassed already if I pulled a working CCM from a junkyard that say is a #9 value (mine is a #2) if Installed the proper resistor bypass would it work without having to have a dealer do a reprogramming?

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-28-2018, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Went to the pick n pull today and pulled a CCM unit, got lucky and still had keys in the car (mine is a #2 junkyard was a #11 with a 4670 ohm reading), right now I have the stock key from the junkyard plugged into the wire on the steering column attached by two wires.

This is exactly what I did today after buying the new CCM, unhooked my battery (was off the better part of an hour, both cables), changed out the CCM's, wired up the key bypass, then reattached the cables, ground first then possitive. I was sure to make sure no power was running before changing parts.

Car runs again, even tried restarting 10 times in a row, pass key light stays lit, checked the codes and this is what I got under the CCM codes:

27: VES output circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
120: RAP enable circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
121: RAP enable circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
122: DIL enable circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
123: DIL enable circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
124: Curtesy output circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
125: Curtedy output circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
126: VES output circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
127: VES output circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
130: "PASS KEY FAULT" telltale circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
131: "PASS KEY FAULT" telltale circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
133: Fuel enable circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
143: Key resistor circuit (circuit open or shorted to battery)

Code 27 I have had since I bought the car, I pulled a 133 once back in August but it went away, pulled a 31 & 43 after unhooking the battery trying to clean the cables Tuesday evening. If memory serves me right if there is a 1 in front of the number doesn't that mean in was an old code?

Amazon is delivering a pack of 523 Ohm Resistance, 1% Tolerance, 1/4W, 250V resistors today, I figure if I link 9 together that should give me a 4707 ohm value, chart says the #11 chip has a minimum of 4560and max of 4960 range so in theory I should be in the right range right?

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-28-2018, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95DoubleBubble View Post
I already read that thread but I'm still stuck. I have already done the resistor bypass on the column, worked fine for two years, checked it and it still reads the proper 523ohm. The codes say its an issue in the CCM.
Just to clarify: did you read the exact post number I linked to, disable the TDM (and disable VATS in the PCM) and your car still didn't start ? Or did you read it then do something else entirely and you were still stuck ?

If you disable TDM and VATS you don't have to dick around with key resistances. It takes less than 10 minutes to do.

edit: don't read into the post. It's not intended to be sarcastic.

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Last edited by jasonlachapelle; 03-28-2018 at 03:07 PM.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-28-2018, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonlachapelle View Post
Just to clarify: did you read the exact post number I linked to, disable the TDM (and disable VATS in the PCM) and your car still didn't start ? Or did you read it then do something else entirely and you were still stuck ?

If you disable TDM and VATS you don't have to dick around with key resistances. It takes less than 10 minutes to do.

edit: don't read into the post. It's not intended to be sarcastic.
Yes but I don't know anyone around me that can reprogram the pcm and with only one car I can't be out of work a week+ while I mail the pcm out somewhere

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-28-2018, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
checked the codes and this is what I got under the CCM codes:

27: VES output circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
120: RAP enable circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
121: RAP enable circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
122: DIL enable circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
123: DIL enable circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
124: Curtesy output circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
125: Curtedy output circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
126: VES output circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
127: VES output circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
130: "PASS KEY FAULT" telltale circuit (circuit shorted to battery)
131: "PASS KEY FAULT" telltale circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
133: Fuel enable circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
143: Key resistor circuit (circuit open or shorted to battery)
I suggest you check and clean the ground wires to the PCM and CCM.
A bad ground would make more sense than all those things being shorted or open.

Quote:
Car runs again, even tried restarting 10 times in a row
133: Fuel enable circuit (circuit open or shorted to ground)
I would not think the car would run if 133 is real.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-28-2018, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z09B4U View Post
I suggest you check and clean the ground wires to the PCM and CCM.
A bad ground would make more sense than all those things being shorted or open.



I would not think the car would run if 133 is real.
I thought someone once told me if it comes up as 133 instead of 33 its just an old stored code. Car ran fine for the ten mile trip home from where I had to leave it at work Monday night.about to go back in for 5-12 shift driving around town so I will see how it does, I think when we close I will disconnect the battery while I clean up in the shop, that will give it at least 45min to an hour to clear the history

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