Door harness cut - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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Door harness cut

I just picked up a 95 RMS. The driver door was replaced and they cut the wiring harness inside the car behind the hood release. Looking for a way to fix this. Is there any way better than splicing all these wires? Ugh.
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Missing my Fleetwood. Working on my '95 RMS, but hoping to find a wagon. Every kid should experience sitting in that rear-facing seat. I have three deprived kids.
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post #2 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 04:57 PM
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Geesh, what a hack job. The only thing that struck me to fix this would be to get some male & female connectors(maybe weatherpac) and start lining everything up. You may have to pull the wires out of the door and then put the connector back in to plug them together. It may also take several connectors to fit in the opening. At least with this way it would look clean and be secure.
I just reread your post and looked at the pic. I thought it was inside the door. Just get some connectors to be able to plug the wire together. Hope this helps you out.

Mark: Snowman-33

93 9C1: Work & Cubic Ca$h This started with a new headlight and fender Celeritas In Conficiendo

Last edited by gbhs72; 08-04-2018 at 04:59 PM. Reason: Update
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post #3 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 05:33 PM
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IMHO I would solder each wire back together using heat shrink over the soldered connection.

It may be easier to pull the door panel so you can unplug the various connectors and "back feed the harness through the door so you have some wiggle room for all the solder connections you need to do

Sucks that all of this will be somewhat "under dash" work. Maybe pull the DS seat for more room for you to work in

Once all wires are soldered back together wrap up all with electrical tape as a bundle. Pull harness back into door and plug n door connections and check every switch function before you button up the door.

It is all fixable, just sucks someone did a hack job but salvage yards are "cut & pull" for parts

Don't do crimp connections

\'96 BBB 383/T-56
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post #4 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 05:52 PM
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Use "solder sleeves". That will be easier than trying to crimp each wire, or soldering each one and then covering with shrink-tube.

Mike - '94 BBB SS (RIP 06/16) - '95 DGGM SS - '96 DCM SS - '92 BBB Wagon
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post #5 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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That’s what I was afraid of. Wasn’t a junk yard thing. The guy who started the work just didn’t know I guess. The door panel is off. This is a project car - and more than I realized. I’m learning body adjustment (or trying) and now electrical. If I solder and shrink tube them are they long enough as is or do I need to splice extensions? As long as there’s an inch of play I should have enough.


Missing my Fleetwood. Working on my '95 RMS, but hoping to find a wagon. Every kid should experience sitting in that rear-facing seat. I have three deprived kids.
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post #6 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-05-2018, 05:45 AM
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I don't know if information is in the FSM, but I'd want to confirm that there's no 'master connector' joining all the door wiring as an assembly back into the main wiring loom somewhere further inboard under there.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
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post #7 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-05-2018, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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I pulled back the carpet and checked back to about the middle of the front seat. I’m pretty sure there isn’t. I think I’m going to be wrestling on my back in a tight spot.


Missing my Fleetwood. Working on my '95 RMS, but hoping to find a wagon. Every kid should experience sitting in that rear-facing seat. I have three deprived kids.
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post #8 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-05-2018, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
IMHO I would solder each wire back together using heat shrink over the soldered connection.

It may be easier to pull the door panel so you can unplug the various connectors and "back feed the harness through the door so you have some wiggle room for all the solder connections you need to do

Sucks that all of this will be somewhat "under dash" work. Maybe pull the DS seat for more room for you to work in

Once all wires are soldered back together wrap up all with electrical tape as a bundle. Pull harness back into door and plug n door connections and check every switch function before you button up the door.

It is all fixable, just sucks someone did a hack job but salvage yards are "cut & pull" for parts
BALLSS


Normally I would recommend exactly the same thing, but with so little extra wire and such a restricted position crimped splices might be the way to go. To do a proper solder splice the wire should be mechanically connected first.(Search western union splice) and this will use up your limited wire length. For those new to soldering just connecting wire with a solder blob does not work well. A crimp splice has two advantages for your project: Less stripped wire is needed, and you can use the crimp tool with one hand while controlling the spliced wire with the other. Trust me it will be hard to properly solder these wires. As the work progresses it will get harder to spice the wires together then apply the heat then the solder.


Before the whole forum expresses their opinion I would like to remind all that both land vehicles, water vehicles, and aircraft are assembled with crimp connectors. If you are willing to buy a quality ratcheting crimp tool and all sizes of some high quality crimp splices you can make a proper crimp connection that will pass a "tug of war" or pull test where the wire will fail before the crimp to wire connection fails.



Crimp splices with silicone inside them would be best, and heat shrink over them for extra protection.


Normally I would solder and heat shrink a splice. Do not try to do this with crimping pliers, it is too hard to make a proper crimp with them. If you use a ratcheting crimp tool and connector try some test crimps before going to the car.


Good luck with a project that is very physically challenging.

Z09B4U
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post #9 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-05-2018, 04:14 PM
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Z, I have been told in the past by a friend who attended a session about automotive wiring and solder vs crimping was part of it. He said that the crimp was superior to the solder. Look at the ground connections on our cars. Then too Fred has stated in the past about soldering GM wire. Now. The reason I mentioned the connectors. I saw how limited the space was and trying to get in there and crimp two wires together and the bundle making things tighter and tighter with each splice. Add to that trying to heat shrink individual connections. It becomes almost impossible in that location. If he crimps in connectors it just seems as if it would be easier. Do one side then the other and plug it in. Yes the tool to crimp weatherpac would add to the cost but then it's another tool for possible later repairs. Just my thought on all this.

Mark: Snowman-33

93 9C1: Work & Cubic Ca$h This started with a new headlight and fender Celeritas In Conficiendo
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post #10 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-05-2018, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
If he crimps in connectors it just seems as if it would be easier. Do one side then the other and plug it in. Yes the tool to crimp weatherpac would add to the cost but then it's another tool for possible later repairs. Just my thought on all this.
gbhs72


This way would work well, if cost was not a issue I would do it. But if you do not have access to a wholesale source for the weatherpac parts and tool the cost can be stunning(at least where I am). The crimp pins are not expensive but the shells seem costly.



A good ratcheting crimping tool will have changeable dies. One could get the weatherpac dies later when there is no option but to use them.

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