Key activated 12V hot under dash? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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Key activated 12V hot under dash?

Hey everyone,

Iím installing a trailer brake controller in my Roadmaster. Can anyone suggest a good place under the dash to get 12V positive thatís only hot when the key is on, or the car running?

I donít want to go straight to the battery and have to turn it on and off. Thanks


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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 10:24 PM
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I have never seen a electric brake installation manual that suggests a switched power supply.


If you lose key power you lose the trailer brakes.


The power should come from the battery to a breaker to the controller. 12ga to reduce voltage loss over the long distance. The auto-resetting breaker is safer that a one time fuse that may blow during normal braking.



Most controller manuals are on the internet if your's is missing.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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That makes perfect sense, although I didnít think of it. Thank you


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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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So anyone know the best place to pass wires through the firewall? Iíve been looking for an hour.

That roadyís tighter than a drum. Iím thinking Iíll need to drill somewhere, unless thereís a place to pick up unswitched 12V in the cabin...?

Thanks


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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 12:24 AM
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 12:07 PM
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Orange wires are hot at all times. Try the seat circuit. If you can not find a heavy orange wire, wire up a relay, and run a heavy wire to it outside of the body.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Z09B4U View Post
I have never seen a electric brake installation manual that suggests a switched power supply.


If you lose key power you lose the trailer brakes.


The power should come from the battery to a breaker to the controller. 12ga to reduce voltage loss over the long distance. The auto-resetting breaker is safer that a one time fuse that may blow during normal braking.



Most controller manuals are on the internet if your's is missing.
EVERY PART OF THIS ANSWER IS RIGHt. THIS GUY IS SMART.....I WOULD USE 10 GAUGE WIRE WITH HIGHER THEN LOAD BREAKER

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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I agree. I ran 12 gauge wire already, but at this point Iím not sure if Iím going to mount the brake controller anyway.

I just decided to drive my wifeís Dodge 1500. Sheís decided to sell it and get a newer truck, so I might just put the controller in whatever truck we end up with. Itís a P3 controller and really wonít get used much in the Roadmaster.

Iím glad I put the hitch in though...

Thanks for your advice though. Iíve really gone through the Roadmaster for this trip, and thatís a plus even though Iíve decided not to take it.


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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 09:49 AM
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If you do wind up installing it in the RM, hook main 12v to the AUX battery post at underhold fuse panel. Then to circuit breakers then controller

The controller I bought for the truck came with instructions. User is responsible for source of 12v and mounting location of circuit breakers.

If your trailer has e-brakes, you need a controller

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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Yes I already have the inline breaker. Iíll probably install it since Iíve already ran the difficult wires. Then Iíll just get another harness for my wifeís new truck, so I can put it in either vehicle.

Thanks for the reply


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