Seems like you started hating after I brought up the LS swap tbh, I forgot how sensitive yal lt1 owners are about those lmao.
The only reason I mentioned the Camaro swap is that most people who do not refer to the LT1 as a "cop" motor think it is the same as a Corvette or Camaro motor and they are not the same. You will not find me making a single negative comment about a motor swap. For the record I have done several over 400ci installs over the years.
Your Pass-KeyII circuit measurements are about the same as HUF and Joneebgood. All three reading are higher than the FSM. BUT you will probably delete the Pass-Key as it will probably not work with the LS1.
You have tried three chime modules and witnessed the same exact results. Most people would suggest you have a sensor or wiring issue. That is why I gave you a link to chime trouble shooting. I noticed that the seatbelt circuit was not mentioned when this was being discussed.
The point where I seem not to communicate properly with you is over the 300mA or 0.3A draw. At one point I worked on emergency responder vehicles, service trucks, and other custom electrical installs. These ran fine with higher parasitic loads. I expect a good battery will handle this if driven daily.
Many reading this may wonder why I have not referred to the FSM.
1. My early 94 FSM only gives information about 1993 parasitic loads. Since the engine computer, radio types, and Pass-Key modules are different I choose to stick with forum information.
2. Your measurements approximately matched HUF and Joneebgood.
Now to the FSM. My 1994 service manual refers to a 3800 motor at times, the high/low transfer case, the wrong pulse data from the transmission, special tools (like a IAC wrench) that do not fit this car, and many other misprints. So when it quotes information for 1993 which is a different car I did not want to pass on the information. You have repeated many times a unmodified car should have low parasitic draw. As I clearly said a battery should last about three weeks with factory specified power loads.
From the 1994 FSM with 1993 data: A normal parasitic draw of 25mA(0.025A) is acceptable. 100% what you have been saying.
Voltage regulator in generator(alternator) assembly 1mA
Why these are way lower than you, HUF, and Joneebgood are a mystery. What is unlikely is that you have malfunctioning modules Pass-Key and Chime that function correctly. You have not mentioned Pass-key light or starting problems, and have tried three Chime modules that preformed exactly the same way. HUF and Joneebgood also did not mention any issues with their Pass-Key or chime modules.
I went to where I store my Caprice and did two drain tests. At the battery 22.5mA(0.0225A) and at body2 Fuse 20ma.
BUT when I risked the multimeter's fuse(500mA) on the body2 Fuse circuit I could read a one time(at first connection to the circuit) peak current of 350mA(0.350A) What this tells me is something can draw more power if it is active. So I expect your chime module is responding to something and drawing excessive power.
To summarize If you do not trust the Pass-key delete it when you swap engines. Check the inputs to the Chime It is hard to believe you have three bad chime modules. I can not explain why you,HUF and Joneebgood all report high parasitic drains without other issues.