94 caprice - body 2 circuit - Page 4 - Chevy Impala SS Forum
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #31 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
Jsw396's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 21
Originally Posted by Z09B4U View Post
dec∑i∑bel:a unit used to measure the intensity of a sound or the power level of an electrical signal by comparing it with a given level on a logarithmic scale.

dec∑i∑mal:relating to or denoting a system of numbers and arithmetic based on the number ten, tenth parts, and powers of ten.

??? What's your point I was saying I have used a few different setting hence the different numbers I've posted. I've also said I'm not electric saavy, also hinted I didnt really know how use that multimeter, going with it learning as I go. Obviously it's a 150-300ma draw. It's at 50mA respectively without that green chime module plugged in! Your funny though.

Thanks for making me laugh. seriously I guess I do not understand the dialect of smart phone word correction you are posting in, and I can not understand how:Post #28 Jsw396

You also clearly dont understand the issue going on with my car either. I mean come on bro not one person on here has figured it out beside the couple that got lucky with the glovebox light. You your self quoted that b bodies can run fine with a 300-500 mA parasitic drain haha.. Your sick, and that's the kind of stupid advice that will have people running through batteries.. clearly... I'm by no means an expert obviously, or I wouldn't be on here. Maybe instead of being a smartass over half the post, actually break stuff down for the folks that say they're not electronic saavy. I used Google that's how I got here, and I've already read everyone's failures of figuring it out..
I was only trying to be proactive before I brought it to do the swap so we're not spending hours on that rather than doing the swap. Like I said you clearly don't know either so your of no use. Il figure it out though. Il be sure too post the solution for all the smart people going through batteries.

Post #29 Jsw396
For the record three forum members posting out of the 483 logged in members(and countless other) that have viewed this thread.
Again what's your point? What am I suppose to feel salty that 481 members dont know how to fix the problem or their own? You got jokes sir haha.... I say 481 because the first 2 actually recommended the FSM which certainly was better advice than you referencing 300-500mA as a safe normal battery drain while the vehichle is off. You had me laughing then, still do. According to you I don't have a battery drain, your hilarious.

Seems like you started hating after I brought up the LS swap tbh, I forgot how sensitive yal lt1 owners are about those lmao. Not like I haven't owned the same lt1 for 7 years, still going.
Jsw396 is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #32 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 01:14 PM
Senior Member
Z09B4U's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 800
Seems like you started hating after I brought up the LS swap tbh, I forgot how sensitive yal lt1 owners are about those lmao.
The only reason I mentioned the Camaro swap is that most people who do not refer to the LT1 as a "cop" motor think it is the same as a Corvette or Camaro motor and they are not the same. You will not find me making a single negative comment about a motor swap. For the record I have done several over 400ci installs over the years.

Your Pass-KeyII circuit measurements are about the same as HUF and Joneebgood. All three reading are higher than the FSM. BUT you will probably delete the Pass-Key as it will probably not work with the LS1.

You have tried three chime modules and witnessed the same exact results. Most people would suggest you have a sensor or wiring issue. That is why I gave you a link to chime trouble shooting. I noticed that the seatbelt circuit was not mentioned when this was being discussed.

The point where I seem not to communicate properly with you is over the 300mA or 0.3A draw. At one point I worked on emergency responder vehicles, service trucks, and other custom electrical installs. These ran fine with higher parasitic loads. I expect a good battery will handle this if driven daily.

Many reading this may wonder why I have not referred to the FSM.

1. My early 94 FSM only gives information about 1993 parasitic loads. Since the engine computer, radio types, and Pass-Key modules are different I choose to stick with forum information.

2. Your measurements approximately matched HUF and Joneebgood.

Now to the FSM. My 1994 service manual refers to a 3800 motor at times, the high/low transfer case, the wrong pulse data from the transmission, special tools (like a IAC wrench) that do not fit this car, and many other misprints. So when it quotes information for 1993 which is a different car I did not want to pass on the information. You have repeated many times a unmodified car should have low parasitic draw. As I clearly said a battery should last about three weeks with factory specified power loads.

From the 1994 FSM with 1993 data: A normal parasitic draw of 25mA(0.025A) is acceptable. 100% what you have been saying.
Voltage regulator in generator(alternator) assembly 1mA
Pass-Key 5mA

Why these are way lower than you, HUF, and Joneebgood are a mystery. What is unlikely is that you have malfunctioning modules Pass-Key and Chime that function correctly. You have not mentioned Pass-key light or starting problems, and have tried three Chime modules that preformed exactly the same way. HUF and Joneebgood also did not mention any issues with their Pass-Key or chime modules.

I went to where I store my Caprice and did two drain tests. At the battery 22.5mA(0.0225A) and at body2 Fuse 20ma. BUT when I risked the multimeter's fuse(500mA) on the body2 Fuse circuit I could read a one time(at first connection to the circuit) peak current of 350mA(0.350A) What this tells me is something can draw more power if it is active. So I expect your chime module is responding to something and drawing excessive power.

To summarize If you do not trust the Pass-key delete it when you swap engines. Check the inputs to the Chime It is hard to believe you have three bad chime modules. I can not explain why you,HUF and Joneebgood all report high parasitic drains without other issues.

Z09B4U is offline  
post #33 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
Jsw396's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 21
Thank you man. I will update the thread after the swap. I do understand the caprice has the iron heads and has different cam for better lower end torque to get the heavy car moving, the ls1 and the new rearend should be able to get the big girl moving pretty good, at least good enough until I get the rebuild and goodies in the spring.

But yeah after the swap il resume chasing the draw, if any at that point. I will update, ide say 2 weeks.. Again thanks.
Jsw396 is offline  
Sponsored Links

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Chevy Impala SS Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome