Advice on '95 Roadmaster - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-02-2001, 11:30 PM
Rowland Hill
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I'm looking at a '95 Roadmaster, March '95 build, LT1, 2.56 rear axle, blue leather interior, same shade as my '95 9C1 blue cloth, FE1 suspension, no heavy duty cooling (in south Texas???), 45 K miles, automagic air conditioning, wire wheel covers on steel wheels. No G80 posi. $11,000 asking price.

What should I look out for/avoid.

I would put the 9C1 springs, shocks, sway bars, and rear lower control arm kit on it. Also probably 3.23 or 3.42 rear axle.

Will I have to do the body bushing mod?

I figure I can install the left side (secondary) 240 watt heavy duty cooling fan.

Will a '95 9C1 PCM program run the Roadmaster or is there some equipment/
indicators that will be messed up?

Thanks in advance,

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Rowland Hill, '95 9C1
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-03-2001, 10:06 AM
tirpitz
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Is it a wagon? If so, get it!!!

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Eric Maxwell, 96 MySStic, SOCALSS
www.geocities.com/tirpitz_2000.html
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-03-2001, 02:35 PM
Rowland Hill
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It's a sedan.

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Rowland Hill, '95 9C1
 
post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-03-2001, 03:42 PM
RamAirImpala
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Id slap in a 3.73 and some headers on that bad boy,it can be one BAD A$$ sleeper!!

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Shane Cobb
96 Impala SS "Big Green and mean!"
post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-03-2001, 04:33 PM
XWrench
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Rowland,

Sounds like a pretty fair price for the car. Mine's white w/grey leather, and I paid just under 10 and it has 70,000 on it now. You will need to do the bushing mod, all the b-body's except 9C1 need to have it done. Most of these cars were pretty well taken care of due to the usual elderly owners. I looked at about 6-8 cars before I bought, the worst problem I saw being random paint removal from all four corners and the ends of the mirrors.

I have SS sway bars, springs, shocks, ready to go in. Gears and disc rear are next. I can't help on the PCM, my knowledge on the electronics are not to that level yet. Even without the SS parts, I have a blast surprising the hell out of those that don't know!

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95 Roadmaster Sedan
95 Roadmaster Wagon
post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-03-2001, 09:44 PM
Rowland Hill
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>by XWrench:
Rowland,

Sounds like a pretty fair price for the car...I have SS sway bars, springs, shocks, ready to go in. Gears and disc rear are next...
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Sounds like you have similar plans to mine. The over drive trans gear and 2.56 rear end seems way too high to be of much use. I don't like to run my engine below 1500 steady state and 70 in OD works out to something just under 1500 RPM.

What do you plan as your source for the rear axle?

One out of a totaled SS sounds good because it would also have the G80 posi.

With two B-bodies LT1 Edit starts to make more sense.

The only caveat in my case is that if my wife decides it is too big or the rear visibility is not adequate, I told her we could get rid of it in a couple of months or earlier if she wants. I would have preferred to get another '95 Chevy due to the better visibility to the rear, but she has liked the Roadmaster since it came out in '91.

Now to see if my new sig works. After a couple of months and I bring the Buick up to mostly 9C1 specs, I plan to make it '95 Chevy 9C1 and '95 Buick 9C1.

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Rowland Hill, '95 Chevy 9C1, '95 Roadmaster
post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-04-2001, 04:49 PM
XWrench
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Rowland,

The plan is to sort of make a pseudo-SS (GS?) out of it. Both cars of mine have the 2:56 rear - more suited for Bonneville. Several yards in town here have the 3:08 posi disc rear available - for about a grand. I don't really know if that's a fair price or not. I started pricing all the separate components for adapting the drum rear over, but after dealing with purchasing a posi, and the gears, the complete swap may make more sense.

Can you elaborate a little on LT1 Edit? I'm pleading ignorance on that.

Well, it's funny you mention the visibilty thing. my wife drives the sedan most of the time. She really likes the car, but about a month ago backing out of the driveway she misjudged and hit the basketball pole (Buried about 6 ft. down in concrete) with the RR corner. Ouch. Not too bad, but needs to visit the body shop for couple days.

Keep me posted on any progress on your "updates".

Mark

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95 Roadmaster Sedan
95 Roadmaster Wagon
post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-04-2001, 09:37 PM
Rowland Hill
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Probably a GS. I remember when those first came out in the mid '60's.

My family and I had a 1965 Tempest Le Mans for 13 years and 125 K miles. Unfortunately, It got bad rust problems at the base of the windshield and rear window, and in the trunk floor and rear fenders.

Part of what turned me on to these B bodies is that I was thinking that what I would really like to buy is a four door 1965 GM A body and then I found that the mid 90's B bodies weren't that far off in dimensions. The Impala is too flashy (don't want to go out of my way to attract thieves and law enforcement attention), too expensive, and for safety reasons and in South Texas I only buy white cars.

These B bodies have it all over the mid 60's cars with the suspension, tires, wheels, electronic fuel injection, corrosion protection, paint, etc.

LT1 Edit is used to edit or reprogram the program in the PCM (Powertrain Control Module), primarily for keeping your speedometer correct when changing tire overall diameter or rear axle ratios, changing the temp at which the cooling fans turn on, and maybe shift speeds. If one wants to experiment, they can fiddle with the air fuel ratio and ignition advance. The 108 mph limiter can be raised; whether it makes sense to do so depends on one's tires' speed ratings and the pressure carried. I doubt I will ever see the far side of 100.

I am happy with the factory ignition and fuel mapping, but want my fans to come on at lower temps. The factory PCM programming has the passenger side primary fan coming on at 225F and the driver side secondary fan turning on at 232F. I don't want my engine running that hot. It may help fuel mileage marginally by using less electrical energy to run the electric fans, but I am more interested in miles per engine than miles per gallon. If I put in a different rear end ratio, I will use it to correct the speedometer.

One can get this done by others for a fee, but with two cars I think it will be cost effective to do it myself.

Realistically, although it would be fun to hot rod one, the LT1's have enough power for me for any practical use. I bought the 9C1 for all of the heavy duty stuff, like engine oil cooler, power steering fluid cooler, extra capacity cooling, four wheel disc brakes, 3.08 rear axle (makes it easier on the engine), etc. The factory made the 9C1's to be bulletproof maintenance wise in pursuit. The 9C6 taxis were built to provide 200-300 K miles with minimal maintenance. I figure the factory made the Roadmaster to get maximum fuel mileage, and get through the warranty period and hopefully the first owner's ownership without any bad maintenance bills.

I plan to replace the black plastic front air dam outer sections with the 9C1 pieces for better brake rotor cooling. When I replace the front rotors, I plan to get the thicker 9C1 front rotors. I may have to get 9C1 calipers also.

Anyway, these are my plans, if my wife decides she likes it. I expect to have the 9C1 for at least ten if not twenty years. The only thing that would knock me out of it is if they triple the price of gas.

Keep in touch.

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Rowland Hill, '95 Caprice 9C1, '95 Roadmaster

[This message has been edited by Rowland Hill (edited March 04, 2001).]
post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-05-2001, 09:35 PM
XWrench
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Rowland,

Thanks a bunch for the info. LT1 Edit is on the shopping list. I didn't know the 9C1 had different rotors & calipers either. The sedan has some awfully warped rotors right now, and I was going to replace them anyway. Nice tip.

I'll post when the first wave of modifications is finished. The snow is just starting to melt right now, I don't plan to work on them until sometime in April (probably after the 15). One more thing, one item I haven't purchased, and haven't seen any recommedations on, are stabilizer links or the front bar bushings. If there is something that works better than others, please let me know. Thanks again.

Mark

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95 Roadmaster Sedan
95 Roadmaster Wagon
post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-06-2001, 07:30 AM
Rowland Hill
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The 9C1 bushings and end links will reduce slop over 70,000 mile stock bushings and provide more front sway control and are an easy install. You can use also use the SS bushings and end link assemblies. For safety, you want to put the car on jackstands.

I am happy with the level of control provided by the 9C1 bars and bushings. The 9C1 bars may be the same as the GM SS bars. More control = stiffer = more harshness. Add the 9C1 front bar, and it will be noticeably stiffer. There are stiffer bars than the 9C1 and harder bushings. It is all a compromise. Does your Roadmaster wagon have the Firm Ride and Suspension package?

Have you contacted Dal Slabaugh in Ohio? He is the man for the right GM parts at the best prices, unless your local dealer is willing to give you wholesale. My local dealer is willing to give me 20% off, but that is not wholesale. I only use the local dealer for cheap items.

There is a GM $30-40 rear lower control arm upgrade kit that has the installation hardware for the GM rear bars on the sedans. Dal can tell you whether the GM rear bars will bolt on the wagon. The wagon rear axle is about three inches wider than the sedans. I expect the GM bars will work on the wagon though. I think the only difference is the axle shafts. I think the housings are the same.

If you don't have a GM 1995 B-Body Factory Service Manual (FSM), you really need to get one. It is three 8.5 x 11 inch books that stack about 4 inches high. The Haynes doesn't compare. Dal can get you an FSM, or you can order one from Helm, Inc. at helminc.com

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Rowland Hill, '95 Caprice 9C1, '95 Roadmaster

[This message has been edited by Rowland Hill (edited March 06, 2001).]
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