Rear Control Arms - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Control Arms

I've got a 95 Buick Roadmaster, 90,000 miles. I just got her back from the shop today, replaced oil pan gasket, oil filter gasket,oil level sensor, front crank seal,valve cover, water pump, distributor, spark plugs and wires, ignition coil and control module, fuel filter fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, fuel sender unit and replaced the transmission cooler line. With no more leaks, weird noises, or stalls on startup I'm ready to make the ultimate sleeper b body...

I now have
a set of spindles and lower control arms off a 96 9c1.
Plus a new set of the 5/8 ball joints.

a 96 9c1 rear end with the rotors and 3.10 gears and rear sway bar
Plus the stealth bolt and goodrich steel braided lines

All four 9c1 springs
Plus new sets of Monroe SS front and rear shocks

I also have the 9c1 drive shaft which i may or may not need
I'm waiting for my energy suspension poly front control arm bushing set.

The one thing I'm confused about is my choice for rear control arms. The 9c1 rear end they simply cut the rear upper arms to release it. My road master has useable uppers but they are pretty rusted and I would rather replace them now.
I've read that the impala and caprice rear wheels aren't centered in the well, and many people get adjustable or extended control arms to fix this problem. I believe my Roadmaster wheels are centered. I realized the control arm placement will effect the drive shaft length so I want make sure I buy arms that will work with either a stock road master drive shaft or the pc1 drive shaft.

As you can see, I listen and put my trust in your forum so please advise me on what controls will work best ...and why...

Last edited by Salimdadream; 03-02-2013 at 02:17 PM. Reason: Clarify
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 03:10 PM
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You only "need" standard, non adjustable control arms, top and bottom. If you want to play with pinion angle then adjustable uppers are useful. The reason the Caprice rear wheels are not centered is because GM opened up the rear wheel openings from the early "skirted" rear. The redesigned arch could not move forward due to the door/dogleg so to maintain the correct radius it thus had to hang back further to the rear. The wheels are right where they belong, it's the body that isn't "right". Extended(adjustable) arms move the rearend to compensate. Roadys and Fleetwoods don't need to do that.


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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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OK, those are alot cheaper so thats a good thing, but if I'm switching from Drums to rotors, should I switch drive shafts as well...the 9c1 does have a posi-traction if that matters. Or better question is the 9c1 and roady the same drive shaft even though one has posi on doesn't?
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 04:31 PM
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The brakes are immaterial to the driveshaft as is the presence of limited slip. And I am unaware of any difference between the cop shafts vs the rest(someone can correct me on that)in the B body anyway.

The shaft becomes a potential issue when you go to 3.73 or steeper gears. Some people have vibration problems at that point. There's a thread here on using the aluminum driveshaft from the P71 Crown Vics as a cheap alternative to something like a Dennys. BUT, I'm not sure if that will work in any app except with the extended arms. I know it's too short for the Fleetwoods and it may be too long for a Roady. Regardless, unless you change gears you shouldn't have to worry about it.


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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-06-2013, 10:25 AM
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OK not to sound to stupid but if i read this right the rear control arms out of a 93 caprice cop car will not interchange with a 91 rmw ?
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-06-2013, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salimdadream View Post
I now have
a set of spindles and lower control arms off a 96 9c1.
Plus a new set of the 5/8 ball joints.

a 96 9c1 rear end with the rotors and 3.10 gears and rear sway bar
Plus the stealth bolt and goodrich steel braided lines

You do realize that to use the 5/8" lower ball joints you need to locate a set on the correct lower control arms don't you? You can not just stick the larger ball joints into the control arms that originally came from the factory with 9/16" ball joints

Also it would be a 3.08 gear and not a 3.10.

Mike--Hamilton Chevy
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-06-2013, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m/w View Post
OK not to sound to stupid but if i read this right the rear control arms out of a 93 caprice cop car will not interchange with a 91 rmw ?
All the factory control arms are the same length. No benefit to such a swap, though, unless that's all you have and you need them now.

Mike, I intended to mention the need for some Astro minivan front lowers and just realized I missed it. Doh. Wonder if he's had those things in a press, waiting, for the past 3 or 4 days...


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rage, rage against the dying of the light!


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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-06-2013, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Yes the 95 1/2 and 96 Pc1 lower control arms are the ones with the 5/8 openings for the larger ball joints...I have the right arms spindles and ball joints...

As of 8:29 am yesterday morning, I no longer have a roadmaster to put them on. 3 car pile up on 495 totaled by car. I got her out the shop on saturday after 1500 in engine work and totaled it on tuesday...

They say the lord works in mysterious way...
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-06-2013, 08:52 PM
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Sorry to hear it. Everyone ok?

Hopefully insurance will set you up with another one. If not I guarantee the vultures here will take those lower arms, spindles and ball joints off your hands(thus I have positioned myself as first in line so PM me with a price).


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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-07-2013, 09:56 AM
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WOW! That really sucks! I pray everyone was OK?

Mike--Hamilton Chevy
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