Oil pan removal??? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-01-2014, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Question Oil pan removal???

Welp I picked up a 1996 RMW a month or so ago and now I bought MSD wires, and distributor also got the timing gasket kit...

problem now is that gasket on the bottom of the timing cover. I went out and got the fel-pro gasket.

Now I am having a hell of a time getting the oil pan off...

I got the starter out and the oil cooler...

Any tips and or advice??
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-02-2014, 06:04 AM
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Not an easy job but some basics that need to be done......

You need to position the engine to number 6 TDC to align the crank.

You need to remove the oil level sensor in side of pan.

You need to raise the engine about 3 or 4 inches.


Obviously a lot more to this process. Try doing a search here for more info and best to pickup a Haynes or Service Manual which will walk you through the process.

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'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-02-2014, 07:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info, welp iI didn't take out the sensor ripped that sucker right out and I am unsure of how to get it TDC...I tried like hell to search but came up wwih nothing...

If someone could post a like that be sweet...
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-02-2014, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boomhauers_93Wagon View Post
Thanks for the info, welp iI didn't take out the sensor ripped that sucker right out and I am unsure of how to get it TDC...I tried like hell to search but came up wwih nothing...

If someone could post a like that be sweet...
Pick up a Haynes manual for about $20 and it actually has a decent write up on the process. As for TDC, I believe the pointer on the balancer at the 12:00 position is an indication of #6 or #1 TDC. So if that is pointing up, you have the crank where it needs to be.

If you dont want to bother with a new "leak prone" sensor you can just use a plug. I got one with a magnetic tip and used that instead. I then shorted the 2 leads of the sensor pigtail and wrapped it out of the way. I prefer the dipstick method of checking my oil.

================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-02-2014, 10:25 AM
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BTW - I just did a quick search on "Oil pan removal" and it brought up a couple of pages of stuff. So it does work it you dig through the posts a little.

The 2nd post in this tread has some good, basic info on this but try to grab a manual for the specifics. I also remove the inspection cover from the trans for a little more clearance removing the pan and did not remove the dip stick tube.

https://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...il+pan+removal

================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-03-2014, 10:41 PM
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While you are in there, put a new oil pump to cam drive connector in. Get a metal one, the nylon ones tend to get brittle and crack...no more oil pressure.

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For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-04-2014, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4DoorSS View Post
Pick up a Haynes manual for about $20 and it actually has a decent write up on the process. As for TDC, I believe the pointer on the balancer at the 12:00 position is an indication of #6 or #1 TDC. So if that is pointing up, you have the crank where it needs to be.
I one reads the GM service manual, they would find this info partially incorrect .

Yes cast pointer up is 1 and 6 TDC ,however, this is not the best position to remove the oil pan as the crank counterweight interferes with pan removal .

If the cast pointer is facing straight down, the gap between the counter weight and the crank pin is down, affording the most clearance to re&re the pan .

So as per common sense AND the factory service manual ,

The best position for pan removal in the car is

Cast pointer on hub down (6 o'clock) which is cylinder 1 & 6 BDC



The one problem with the LT1 is the hub is not keyed and , although not a functional problem , it can be miss positioned and often is when crank seals or timing chains are done. Then the cast pointer can not be used as reference.


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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-04-2014, 03:08 PM
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That might be, as I mentioned that was from memory and thought there was a "6" in there somewhere. . So maybe it is 6:00 position for the pointer.

the Haynes manual does mention this and for $20, its a good investment for this and other repairs too.

================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-24-2014, 04:06 PM
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Why don't you just go buy a car you like? Sell this one to someone who appreciates it and move on instead of screwing it up with your idea of "improvements?"

Last edited by Chris; 01-24-2014 at 04:09 PM.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2015, 02:02 PM
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Hey guys! After reading this thread I removed the harmonic balancer, the hub and timing cover with out marking where the pin was on the cranks will this be a problem? It sounds like it might be! Is there anyway I can position it right for installation using the dowel pin on the camshaft sprocket?

Sorry for reviving this thread I know it from last year.
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