Rebuild Opti - New Parts In Old Distributor - Page 2 - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-18-2018, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
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Guess What I Did

Requoting myself just for background:
..."I tore the old AC Delco apart, and prompting snapped 3 of the 4 Torx screws. There was no meat to get a grab to get out the pieces. I read another guy had the same happen, but he's crafty and drilled them and just used some bolts & nuts."....

40 minutes with grandpa's old drill press and tiny picks, and was able to restore the threads:



Now it's just a matter of tearing out the Spectra opti (again) and moving all the original parts back into this factory unit, along with the ACDelco tuneup kit. It's my last hope of losing the P0336 code before simply getting it tuned out. Also, after removing the two bearing retainer bolts it is very lose in its race. I'll pick whatever Loc-Tite spec was decided in the 'Opti Dissection' thread to seat it.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear)
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HomeDepot pipe w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCAs, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, and now CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock sensor!
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 10:28 PM
HUF
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Has anybody dissected that Mitsubishi J520 sensor to see what type of a photodiode is used? It should not be difficult to find if not exactly the same photodiode then something matching made by Mitsubishi or another reputable company. The original housing can be reused with new photodiode.

There’s nothing as permanent as a temporary solution.

1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham 122,XXX miles.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Black View Post
Requoting myself just for background:
..."I tore the old AC Delco apart, and prompting snapped 3 of the 4 Torx screws. There was no meat to get a grab to get out the pieces. I read another guy had the same happen, but he's crafty and drilled them and just used some bolts & nuts."....

40 minutes with grandpa's old drill press and tiny picks, and was able to restore the threads:



Now it's just a matter of tearing out the Spectra opti (again) and moving all the original parts back into this factory unit, along with the ACDelco tuneup kit. It's my last hope of losing the P0336 code before simply getting it tuned out. Also, after removing the two bearing retainer bolts it is very lose in its race. I'll pick whatever Loc-Tite spec was decided in the 'Opti Dissection' thread to seat it.
I ran into this problem too when doing the MSD CnR. dang things snapped right off with little effort. Knowing this now will always soak the he!! out of them first before trying this again. I was lucky and had another housing I used but did consider exactly what you did here or considered using Bolts with Nuts on the backside. Just got to keep the bolts no longer that the nut on that end or could be interference with the Timing Cover.

BTW - If you get an external Torx for this, T4 I believe was correct for the cap. I got the whole kit from HF for less than $10 and glad I did. I found that the Ext torx needed for the Mitsu sensor was not the same and believe it was a T5.

================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4DoorSS View Post
I ran into this problem too when doing the MSD CnR. dang things snapped right off with little effort. Knowing this now will always soak the he!! out of them first before trying this again. I was lucky and had another housing I used but did consider exactly what you did here or considered using Bolts with Nuts on the backside. Just got to keep the bolts no longer that the nut on that end or could be interference with the Timing Cover.

BTW - If you get an external Torx for this, T4 I believe was correct for the cap. I got the whole kit from HF for less than $10 and glad I did. I found that the Ext torx needed for the Mitsu sensor was not the same and believe it was a T5.
Yes! The HF torx set is great for Opti
I just picked up another JY donor to rebuild w/ Mitsubishi sensor.
It's reman aftermarket unit, but has nice bearing.
It also has updated seals in it for body & cap, even had correct plug on opti harness which is surprising since even the acdelco didn't.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Just an update on yanking the Spectra I rebuilt twice and moving all the ACD parts back to the old spare. At least now I am confident I have a correctly clocked wheel, even though both units "appeared" to be aligned the same. But I have no confident way of measuring them down to 3 or 4 degrees. Well got the restored oem back in, ------- but did not lose the P0336 code. BooHoo. Soooooo, with the tags already expired 6 months I pulled the trigger on a mailorder tune to eliminate it along with my accumulated wishlist (tire dia., speed limiter, performance, AIR, fai/catback, etc etc.).


Sure the bearing has 110k on it, but I'll take that over most all aftermarkets I've heard of. And it runs like a champ. Maybe a little better than ever. Either the tune, or just SOTP relief talking.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear)
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HomeDepot pipe w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCAs, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, and now CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock sensor!
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4DoorSS View Post
I ran into this problem too when doing the MSD CnR. dang things snapped right off with little effort. Knowing this now will always soak the he!! out of them first before trying this again. I was lucky and had another housing I used but did consider exactly what you did here or considered using Bolts with Nuts on the backside. Just got to keep the bolts no longer that the nut on that end or could be interference with the Timing Cover.

BTW - If you get an external Torx for this, T4 I believe was correct for the cap. I got the whole kit from HF for less than $10 and glad I did. I found that the Ext torx needed for the Mitsu sensor was not the same and believe it was a T5.
External for the cap is an E4, not T4. Be sure it is long type for deeply recessed screws.

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1994 RMW 80K, clear corners, Gary's cables - battery, headlight, mech fan delete, air pump delete, home plate/first base delete, Bill Harper wiper arm mod, Corvette starter, 1LE elbow, Team SS pipe, K&N filter swiss cheese airbox, throttle body bypass, LED headlights.

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Last edited by grandpas wagon; 04-11-2019 at 02:51 PM.
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