No start, no codes - Page 3 - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 11:36 AM
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As mentioned by grandpas -



Get.
That.
Original.
Back.


Drive or Uber over before they open Monday, and don't leave without that oem opti. It can be rebuilt, and for multiple reasons even as old as it is, it will turn out more reliable and better performing than the majority of aftermarket are brand new.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear)
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HomeDepot pipe w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCAs, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, and now CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock sensor!
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post #22 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, I will get original opti back.
Can an opti be rebuilt at home?
Are the bearings/bushings replaceable?
Other than erosion/corrosion of cap & rotor, what is it in the opti that actually fails?
The optical sensor? I wouldn't be surprised if mine has oil on it. Can it be cleaned or does something inside it fail?

I'd much rather rebuild it myself than take car to a stealership or glorified tire & lube, even if I have to wait for parts.

Luckily spring is around the corner and I can ride my motorcycle while parts ship.

I never was the type of person to take a car to a repair garage other than for tire mounting/balancing.
Big thanks to everyone on here for their knowledge.

Remember, when not sure what to do, hit the throttle.
It may not end well, but at least it'll end the suspense.
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post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Jack View Post
Can an opti be rebuilt at home?
Are the bearings/bushings replaceable?
Other than erosion/corrosion of cap & rotor, what is it in the opti that actually fails?
The optical sensor? I wouldn't be surprised if mine has oil on it. Can it be cleaned or does something inside it fail?
Anyone? Bueller?

Remember, when not sure what to do, hit the throttle.
It may not end well, but at least it'll end the suspense.
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post #24 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 03:36 PM
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Numerous threads on rebuilding, and yes easily handled at home. Hunt down the several male and female tiny Torx drivers. Here's a couple of more recent ones:
https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ti-thread.html
https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...stributor.html


Be careful with those tiny screws - I snapped 2 of three and had to set up my drill press to drill out and chase the threads. Replacing the bearing is the only head-scratcher as an 'exact' duplicate has not been found. But at least one guy found one similar to use with a thin spacer-washer. And separating the bearing from the shaft introduces potential mis-clocking the optical wheel on reassembly. which itself has been reported as an issue on some new aftermarket names. You'll want quality tune-up parts - cap, rotor.... And get a tube of blue Locktite and di-electric grease. Remember no grease on viton WP seal. Only one way to get the balancer back on correctly, and 2 other wrong ways. It's all in the threads. Be sure to reuse the more reliable heat resistant oem Mitsubishi sensor v. the one out of any aftermarket. And service the vent harness. Also best time in the world to replace plugs/wires while it's all opened up in front.


Quote:
I never was the type of person to take a car to a repair garage other than for tire mounting/balancing.


Haha Me neither. Last time for anything mechanical (not counting A/C work and wh. alignments) was '98 but I don't count that since I was out of the country and my wife had to run the Impala SS to a GM dealer for a mouse nest in the fan. $350 TYVM GDMF. See, now that it's been 20 years I'm not bitter - much.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear)
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HomeDepot pipe w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCAs, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, and now CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock sensor!
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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE - I called that garage on the morning of 18th. They said they found a new replacement opti locally & that it was on the way & car would be ready before noon & would cost $326, all in. Since I was planning on going out of town the next day, I said great, call me when it's done. They told me where they sourced the part when I asked, too.
After that, I called the part supplier & asked for part number & price. They told me it is an Autoline D2123N & after a LONG hold that it's "for you, it's about $325"...... Greasy
The garage called me a couple hours later & said the car is ready. They billed me for 1 hour of labor & $197 CAD for the part. (not too bad considering rockauto lists this part for $193 CAD + $15 CAD shipping)
For the past week, the engine has ran fine but I didn't have any heat coming in through the vents & only the vents in the dash would blow air. I found that the vacuum line for the hvac was broken where it comes out of the wiring loom above the engine. I suspect the garage broke it when they were checking fuel pressure.
I've started dissecting my original opti, there is noticeable play in the shaft. How do I remove the plastic piece that's behind the rotor?

Remember, when not sure what to do, hit the throttle.
It may not end well, but at least it'll end the suspense.

Last edited by Big Jack; 03-26-2019 at 08:59 AM.
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post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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Bump / Update
I've got the failed opti disassembled (except for bearing). It's a Delco-Remy unit.
There's no sign that any water had gotten inside it, however there was some oil (too clean to be motor oil) inside it. there's also a streak of that oil on the reluctor wheel.
I found this photo of a rebuilt opti on LS1tech.com for how to maintain correct reluctor hub clocking position relative to coupler. Is there a better way to do this?


Thanks
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Remember, when not sure what to do, hit the throttle.
It may not end well, but at least it'll end the suspense.

Last edited by Big Jack; 04-10-2019 at 08:23 PM.
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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Black View Post
As mentioned by grandpas -



Get.
That.
Original.
Back.


Drive or Uber over before they open Monday, and don't leave without that oem opti. It can be rebuilt, and for multiple reasons even as old as it is, it will turn out more reliable and better performing than the majority of aftermarket are brand new.

Other than the Mitsubishi optical sensor (which might be failed), is there any special value in the Delco-Remy opti?


Thanks

Remember, when not sure what to do, hit the throttle.
It may not end well, but at least it'll end the suspense.
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post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 08:59 PM
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Good Pictures and bearing source from babywag:


https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...issection.html


Quote:
Other than the Mitsubishi optical sensor (which might be failed), is there any special value in the Delco-Remy opti?
The parts should be made better and are clocked correctly. The rub is as you say does the optical sensor work. It can be tested out of the car but you need to know what you are doing.


If you are willing to clear codes after the test you might plug it back into the car. Pull the injector fuses then spin and watch for spark at the plugs.


If you are importing bearings PM me I should get a bearing as well.

Z09B4U
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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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The saga continues...


Car died on me a few times a couple miles away from home today, CEL came on. Was able to get started back up each time & drove the car home.
I checked the codes through the climate control module. Indicated 48 (misfire) & 90 (TCC error).
A couple of days ago I put some spacers between the IC/ICM & cylinder head in effort to keep ICM cool. Bad idea?

I've only burned 1 tank of fuel since opti was replaced, garage told me there's a 1 year warranty on the part. Are the aftermarket units really that bad?

Remember, when not sure what to do, hit the throttle.
It may not end well, but at least it'll end the suspense.
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post #30 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 01:39 PM
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a simple "misfire" combined with a TC clutch code do not immediately appear directly connected to the opti. I opennet searched TCClutch fail just to see total list of symptoms and most likely causes might be outside of a bad solenoid - this link came up first but certain you've dug deeper on your own:
https://autoservicecosts.com/obd2-codes/p0740/
A 'always locked' TC can stall the motor at stops if that's anything close to what is happening to you. Biggest thing on there that jumped off the screen is the ECT sensor. Many aftermarket optis have a 'lifetime' warranty and guys just swap them out annually as they croak. Can you get the shop to tell you what brand you have now? What I've heard of that shop makes me wonder if it's not below them to "limit" the warranty on their own to reduce their exposure for a call-back/replacement. But whadddoI know.


An airgap on the IC/ICM is reported on the forum to be a baddddd idea. The head "never" gets over 200* and thought it acts as heatsink compared to air temp. What's more confirmed is a normal installation using legitimate thermal paste.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear)
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HomeDepot pipe w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCAs, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, and now CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock sensor!
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