No start, no codes - Page 4 - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #31 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 96 Black View Post
a simple "misfire" combined with a TC clutch code do not immediately appear directly connected to the opti. I opennet searched TCClutch fail just to see total list of symptoms and most likely causes might be outside of a bad solenoid - this link came up first but certain you've dug deeper on your own:
https://autoservicecosts.com/obd2-codes/p0740/
A 'always locked' TC can stall the motor at stops if that's anything close to what is happening to you. Biggest thing on there that jumped off the screen is the ECT sensor. Many aftermarket optis have a 'lifetime' warranty and guys just swap them out annually as they croak. Can you get the shop to tell you what brand you have now? What I've heard of that shop makes me wonder if it's not below them to "limit" the warranty on their own to reduce their exposure for a call-back/replacement. But whadddoI know.


An airgap on the IC/ICM is reported on the forum to be a baddddd idea. The head "never" gets over 200* and thought it acts as heatsink compared to air temp. What's more confirmed is a normal installation using legitimate thermal paste.

Engine died while coasting or very gently accelerating at ~5mph, stayed running when stopped.
With car in (P), engine intermittently feels rough as if missing when giving it gas. Also (intermittently) ran rough when under load, up hill.

Opti in the car now is Autoline brand.
I will check resistance thru TCC solenoid.

Remember, when not sure what to do, hit the throttle.
It may not end well, but at least it'll end the suspense.
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post #32 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 06:37 PM
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It may further confuse issues - but. My wife's Tribute has a bad habit of doing very similar 'sputter or die at low revs for no reason' on the road if I fail to pour in some Techron injector cleaner every 6 months.



Well,

AutoLine DistributorWarranty Policy
1. Autoline distributors have a 1 year warranty from the date of purchase on Domestic
applications. Commercial applications are 90 day from the date of installation.
2. The distributor must not be modified in anyway



Appears to be a poor pick by the mech. if other brands in fact offer lifetime eh. And 2. cracks me up. As if they are aware of history of that occurring. As you say, the saga continues.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear)
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HomeDepot pipe w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCAs, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, and now CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock sensor!
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post #33 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Jack View Post
UPDATE car started up this morning, I let it warm up, turned it off & started it back up 3 times in a row no problem. I let the car cool for an hour, came back and started it up no problem, let it warm up.
At this point I figured the starter is fine and maybe the car wasn't starting because something was wet. (I had a half inch of water on my garage floor)
I took it for a drive & the engine died at the end of my street. Still, no codes. I did notice that on the optispark end of the coil wire was a small red sleeve around the wire that is cracked. Does my optispark need to be replaced?
Read up this diagnostics link. Here is a part you might pay attention:

"Something that I have run into that causes a no start is a bad coil wire. Sometimes the opti end of the wire will crack and distort causing a lot of internal arcing and bad contact. If you look into the opti end there should be a plastic insert that keeps the wire centered and making good contact. if it’s cracked or broken replace it."

There’s nothing as permanent as a temporary solution.

1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham 122,XXX miles.
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post #34 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 08:18 PM
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Sorry, double post.

There’s nothing as permanent as a temporary solution.

1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham 122,XXX miles.
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post #35 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Black View Post
a simple "misfire" combined with a TC clutch code do not immediately appear directly connected to the opti. I opennet searched TCClutch fail just to see total list of symptoms and most likely causes might be outside of a bad solenoid - this link came up first but certain you've dug deeper on your own:
https://autoservicecosts.com/obd2-codes/p0740/
A 'always locked' TC can stall the motor at stops if that's anything close to what is happening to you. Biggest thing on there that jumped off the screen is the ECT sensor. Many aftermarket optis have a 'lifetime' warranty and guys just swap them out annually as they croak. Can you get the shop to tell you what brand you have now? What I've heard of that shop makes me wonder if it's not below them to "limit" the warranty on their own to reduce their exposure for a call-back/replacement. But whadddoI know.


An airgap on the IC/ICM is reported on the forum to be a baddddd idea. The head "never" gets over 200* and thought it acts as heatsink compared to air temp. What's more confirmed is a normal installation using legitimate thermal paste.

Checked codes thru climate control readout again. This morning, only PCM code 48 (misfire) was present.



Resistance thru TCC solenoid (measured between load side of EMI fuse & terminal 6 of blue PCM connector) is about 10 ohms.
Engine coolant temperature (at pump) indicated thru climate control readout was 43 degrees F (seemed accurate).


I should probably mention when I connected an old Actron scanner to the car's ALDL (key on, engine off), the scanner would take a long time to connect (?) with the PCM, during which time the fuel pump would run. After about 20 seconds, fuel pump would shut off & scanner would indicate connection error. The scanner worked fine last time I connected it to this car.


Is it possible I've got a bad PCM? Bad ignition switch?

Remember, when not sure what to do, hit the throttle.
It may not end well, but at least it'll end the suspense.
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post #36 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HUF View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Jack View Post
UPDATE car started up this morning, I let it warm up, turned it off & started it back up 3 times in a row no problem. I let the car cool for an hour, came back and started it up no problem, let it warm up.
At this point I figured the starter is fine and maybe the car wasn't starting because something was wet. (I had a half inch of water on my garage floor)
I took it for a drive & the engine died at the end of my street. Still, no codes. I did notice that on the optispark end of the coil wire was a small red sleeve around the wire that is cracked. Does my optispark need to be replaced?
Read up this diagnostics link. Here is a part you might pay attention:

"Something that I have run into that causes a no start is a bad coil wire. Sometimes the opti end of the wire will crack and distort causing a lot of internal arcing and bad contact. If you look into the opti end there should be a plastic insert that keeps the wire centered and making good contact. if it’️s cracked or broken replace it."
I checked my coil wire, the" plastic insert" was cracked. Just to see what would happen, I pulled out all the remnants of the insert, plugged coil wire back into opti, car started up fine, let it idle up to operating temperature & drove it back & forth on my driveway. Engine kept running the whole time & didn't throw any codes.
Replacing a coil wire requires replacing all the plug wires ($130 in my neck of the woods). Do you know if /where I can buy just the plastic insert?
Thanks

Remember, when not sure what to do, hit the throttle.
It may not end well, but at least it'll end the suspense.
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post #37 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Jack View Post
I checked my coil wire, the" plastic insert" was cracked. Just to see what would happen, I pulled out all the remnants of the insert, plugged coil wire back into opti, car started up fine, let it idle up to operating temperature & drove it back & forth on my driveway. Engine kept running the whole time & didn't throw any codes.
Replacing a coil wire requires replacing all the plug wires ($130 in my neck of the woods). Do you know if /where I can buy just the plastic insert?
Thanks
I am glad that playing with the coil wire did make a difference. But you still need more driving to check things out.
Cannot say anything about the plastic insert - do not remember any when I replaced all wired many years ago.
You have two choices for the coil wire. First, buying a cheap wire set (rockauto.com has it as low as $20), or buying just the coil wire. For example, check this one out. Not sure it fits your vehicle, though.
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-355D-...r=8-6-fkmrnull

Park the car with open hood somewhere where it can dry out. Wet ignition system can cause a lot of trouble, especially if the components are old.

There’s nothing as permanent as a temporary solution.

1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham 122,XXX miles.

Last edited by HUF; 04-13-2019 at 09:39 PM.
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