1996 Chevy Impala ss won't stop overheating - Chevy Impala SS Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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1996 Chevy Impala ss won't stop overheating

Hello to my favorite forum and forum people. Again here I am asking all yall to advise me . I've changed the thermastat,new plugs and wires (if that would effect it)distributor cap and constantly check my antifreeze and keep it full.Yet my 96 takes no time to get hot(the needle to the middle and sometimes further past). I'm not going far or driving long at all and it starts getting hot.Any ideas?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 04:31 PM
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With just what you typed I'm going with you did not reinstall WP drive coupling after doing the [quote] I've changed the .......... distributor cap .........

others:
blown h. gasket
infamous clay pellets finally sealed the flow

Or, simply did not burp sufficiently/properly.

Ques: Are you losing AF? If so, then mayhaps break in system and not maintaining pressure


Or, as simple as a sacked out cap.


Probability of each above depends on the actual duration of "takes no time to get hot"

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear)
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HomeDepot pipe w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCAs, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, and now CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock sensor!
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 04:40 PM
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I'm going to guess its an air-bubble.


1995 Caprice ERE 383, CIA long tubes, Dynomax VT's, RAISS, Kore3/Z06 brakes, 3.42 posi, Boss 338 20's, 12 way seats, Impala SS console, etc etc etc
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 05:46 PM
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did you bleed the cooling system after you changed the thermostat?

the gen 2 LT1 is a reverse cooling motor, opposite all other SBC, and you need to bleed the air from cooling system if you open it up like by changing T stat, WP or hoses.

\'96 BBB 383/T-56
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 11:40 PM
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Are the fans working?
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Today, 07:17 AM
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Hi

What makes you think that its overheating,is steam coming out? The temp gauge in the middle is not to hot. These cars normal running temp is 230 degrees. The fan should come on around 227 and the second fan about 232. Oldhead

95 WAGON.SS wheels,Exhaust straight out the back.Extra bright cargo lights.Virgin ashtrays,Copper battery term.32# in tires
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Today, 09:09 AM
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Yah Oldhead - sure 1/2 is not officially overheated. But mine "almost always" stays under 1/4 except the rare occasion of real hot out and long crawling traffic. So anything out of the usual is noteworthy. Let's see how many boxes the OP can check off with all the replies so far.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear)
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HomeDepot pipe w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCAs, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, and now CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock sensor!
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Today, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldhead View Post
What makes you think that its overheating,is steam coming out? The temp gauge in the middle is not to hot. These cars normal running temp is 230 degrees. The fan should come on around 227 and the second fan about 232. Oldhead
This is where it's at. First I like to get the OP's definition of overheating, and if it's that the guage get's to almost 1/2 way, then this is a moot point.

I've got a mechanical gauge in the cylinder head, and my PCM & cluster temp coming from the F-Body sender in the water pump.

1/2 on the cluster gauge is somewhere around 190-200'F. My car runs that temperature all the time in city driving.

Clear Image Tri-Ys & Hi-Flow cats >> 2.5" X-Pipe & Magnaflow Tri-Chambers, Mike Harris 4L60E, Circle-D 2,400 RPM TC, All MOOG FT End & Del-A-Lum bushed MOOG CTRL Arms, Eibach FT & New Stock HT rear springs. Hotchkis Sway Bars & End Links, RAISS, 3.73 Gears in Eaton carrier, Dynoshaft & CIA Loop, BMR Trailing Arms, Braided Brake Hoses, Taylor Spiro-Pro Wires, AutoMeter Water Temp & Oil PSI Gauges, Impala Console. ATE Blue Brake Fluid. Skip White distributor. 20's, Z28 Cluster, Corbeau GTS Seat
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