1996 Chevy Impala ss won't stop overheating - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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1996 Chevy Impala ss won't stop overheating

Hello to my favorite forum and forum people. Again here I am asking all yall to advise me . I've changed the thermastat,new plugs and wires (if that would effect it)distributor cap and constantly check my antifreeze and keep it full.Yet my 96 takes no time to get hot(the needle to the middle and sometimes further past). I'm not going far or driving long at all and it starts getting hot.Any ideas?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 04:31 PM
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With just what you typed I'm going with you did not reinstall WP drive coupling after doing the [quote] I've changed the .......... distributor cap .........

others:
blown h. gasket
infamous clay pellets finally sealed the flow

Or, simply did not burp sufficiently/properly.

Ques: Are you losing AF? If so, then mayhaps break in system and not maintaining pressure


Or, as simple as a sacked out cap.


Probability of each above depends on the actual duration of "takes no time to get hot"

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear)
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 04:40 PM
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I'm going to guess its an air-bubble.


1995 Caprice ERE 383, CIA long tubes, Dynomax VT's, RAISS, Kore3/Z06 brakes, 3.42 posi, Boss 338 20's, 12 way seats, Impala SS console, etc etc etc
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 05:46 PM
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did you bleed the cooling system after you changed the thermostat?

the gen 2 LT1 is a reverse cooling motor, opposite all other SBC, and you need to bleed the air from cooling system if you open it up like by changing T stat, WP or hoses.

\'96 BBB 383/T-56
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 11:40 PM
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Are the fans working?
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 07:17 AM
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Hi

What makes you think that its overheating,is steam coming out? The temp gauge in the middle is not to hot. These cars normal running temp is 230 degrees. The fan should come on around 227 and the second fan about 232. Oldhead

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 09:09 AM
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Yah Oldhead - sure 1/2 is not officially overheated. But mine "almost always" stays under 1/4 except the rare occasion of real hot out and long crawling traffic. So anything out of the usual is noteworthy. Let's see how many boxes the OP can check off with all the replies so far.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear)
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldhead View Post
What makes you think that its overheating,is steam coming out? The temp gauge in the middle is not to hot. These cars normal running temp is 230 degrees. The fan should come on around 227 and the second fan about 232. Oldhead
This is where it's at. First I like to get the OP's definition of overheating, and if it's that the guage get's to almost 1/2 way, then this is a moot point.

I've got a mechanical gauge in the cylinder head, and my PCM & cluster temp coming from the F-Body sender in the water pump.

1/2 on the cluster gauge is somewhere around 190-200'F. My car runs that temperature all the time in city driving.

Clear Image Tri-Ys & Hi-Flow cats >> 2.5" X-Pipe & Magnaflow Tri-Chambers, Mike Harris 4L60E, Circle-D 2,400 RPM TC, All MOOG FT End & Del-A-Lum bushed MOOG CTRL Arms, Eibach FT & New Stock HT rear springs. Hotchkis Sway Bars & End Links, RAISS, 3.73 Gears in Eaton carrier, Dynoshaft & CIA Loop, BMR Trailing Arms, Braided Brake Hoses, Taylor Spiro-Pro Wires, AutoMeter Water Temp & Oil PSI Gauges, Impala Console. ATE Blue Brake Fluid. Skip White distributor. 20's, Z28 Cluster, Corbeau GTS Seat
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 11:48 PM
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Temperature sitting still will quickly rise to 180 degrees (OEM). At which point the thermostat will open and hot coolant will circulate through the radiator. You can feel this occur. Sitting still, the temperature will continue to rise to about 225 degrees where the fan will cycle on and cool things down. Rinse / repeat. If the car is moving and not under duress (towing, torquing, hill climbing, traffic, desert heat, etc) it will generally tool along at highway speeds at 180-195 degrees all day long ... by design. In traffic or under load, etc, the fan will cycle on and off and on and off as the temperature climbs to 225 and back down again.



Get yourself one of those $30 temperature laser guns at HF and monitor the temperature of the aluminum plate on the front of the water pump. See what's actually going on in real numbers. The gauge on these cars is not all that telling.


If you did not properly "burp" the air out of the system, the temperature will rise quickly and will not fall when the fan engages. The fan cannot cool the air that is stuck in the system and things get hot fast ... but that will generally lead to a red temp light, not just a higher than normal running temperature. Worse, this air rises and hangs out about the cylinder heads and things go bad quickly.



If your coolant cap is leaking, or if the system will not hold pressure, it will not automatically generate a hotter running condition, per se, till the temp gets above 212 degrees at which point the coolant will boil and then it's a race to the red temp light.



If your water pump is not turning or broken, or if the radiator is clogged or blocked, the engine will go red light on you.


If your heater core (under the dash) is blocked, you won't get any heat in the winter, but it won't overheat your engine. It'll run hotter, but it can handle it.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marky Dissod View Post
If you disconnect the H2Opump temp sensor, the fans should turn on in about 30secs or less; 1st one, then the other.
If both fans come on, then I'd burp the system [again], sometimes these cooling systems require several burps over the course of a week or so.

If both fans run, and the cooling system has been thoroughly burped, and the reservoir cap does not appear to be leaking, get your pcm reprogrammed so as to lower the fan-on temps to something under 216°F, instead of ≈ 230°F.
If you live where the ambient temp never ever goes under 41°F, you may even consider a 160°F thermostat.
(imeo, every LT1 should have its pcm reprogrammed, and not merely to have its fan-on temps lowered, but that's beyond the scope here.)
And to follow-up on the thoughts regarding the PCM being reprogrammed, also have your programmer reduce the speed at which the fans turn off. The OEM programming has both set to not turn off till 77 & 75MPH. That's just rediculous, because once the vehicle is moving along, it's just a waste to have the fan motors run.

I turned mine off at 25MPH.

Clear Image Tri-Ys & Hi-Flow cats >> 2.5" X-Pipe & Magnaflow Tri-Chambers, Mike Harris 4L60E, Circle-D 2,400 RPM TC, All MOOG FT End & Del-A-Lum bushed MOOG CTRL Arms, Eibach FT & New Stock HT rear springs. Hotchkis Sway Bars & End Links, RAISS, 3.73 Gears in Eaton carrier, Dynoshaft & CIA Loop, BMR Trailing Arms, Braided Brake Hoses, Taylor Spiro-Pro Wires, AutoMeter Water Temp & Oil PSI Gauges, Impala Console. ATE Blue Brake Fluid. Skip White distributor. 20's, Z28 Cluster, Corbeau GTS Seat
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