Ignition in KO position producers no sound. - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Sometimes my 96 Impala will not produce the regular self diagnosing ding ding ding sound when I turn the ignition to the first KO position. It dings when the doors open, or the lights are on, but not when I get in and go to start the car. All I get is 🦗🦗🦗
This is a transient problem that comes and goes.
Can anyone tell me if this is a real problem or just my “dinger module going bad.
Thank You in advance for all help and suggestions you have to offer.
This is an OBDII car so I was under the impression it didn’t use the same self diagnostic cycle an OBDI does.
Do 1996 OBDII’s still also use the onboard self diagnostic test system at startup ?
Thank you for your time and energy in any responses you can provide...

K&N Gen II Cold Air Intake, HB Removed, Jet Airfoil, TB bypass, Stealth Brake Biasing, Cat Back Exhaust w/ side by side crossover.

Last edited by SoCalChlln; 07-08-2019 at 08:59 PM.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SoCalChlln View Post
Sometimes my 96 Impala will not produce the regular self diagnosing ding ding ding sound when I turn the ignition to the first KO position. It dings when the doors open, or the lights are on, but not when I get in and go to start the car. All I get is 🦗🦗🦗
This is a transient problem that comes and goes.
Can anyone tell me if this is a real problem or just my “dinger module going bad".
Thank You in advance for all help and suggestions you have to offer.
This is an OBDII car so I was under the impression it didn’t use the same self diagnostic cycle an OBDI does.
Do 1996 OBDII’s still also use the onboard self diagnostic test system at startup ?
Thank you for your time and energy in any responses you can provide …
My kinda educated guess is the problem is somewhere between the dinger module & the key tumbler mechanism. After all, you said it dings when the doors open, or the lights are on, so the connections between the dinger, the doors, & the lights, as well as the dinger, are probably ok.

I'm of half a mind to just remove my dinger altogether.
The dinger just dings, it has nothing to do with the startup self-diagnostic that either an OBD1 or OBD2 pcm does.

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 11:41 AM
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???, when I turn my key "on" there is no ding ding unless the door is open while doing so I think

It dings if the turn signal is left on for a period of time

The dinger is just to let you know the door is open and I believe headlights left on if you remove key with them on (unless you have headlight sentinel)

not anything to do with any PCM pre check

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Marky Dissod View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalChlln View Post
Sometimes my 96 Impala will not produce the regular self diagnosing ding ding ding sound when I turn the ignition to the first KO position. It dings when the doors open...
Can anyone tell me if this is a real problem or just my “dinger going bad.
Do 1996 OBDII’s still also use the onboard self diagnostic test system at startup ?
Thank you for your time and energy in any responses you can provide …
My kinda educated guess is the problem is somewhere between the dinger module & the key tumbler mechanism. After all, you said it dings when the doors open, or the lights are on, so the connections between the dinger, the doors, & the lights, as well as the dinger, are probably ok.

I'm of half a mind to just remove my dinger altogether.
The dinger just dings, it has nothing to do with the startup self-diagnostic that either an OBD1 or OBD2 pcm does.
Ahhhh... Thank you Mark for clearing that up for me. That’s exactly what I needed to know, the ‘dinger’ on OBDII cars does nothing as far as the on board Diagnostic System goes.
I am a little confused in that I thought the OBDI system used the dings to help diagnose pcm and other potential problems, but I’ve never owned an OBDI car before that I knew was OBDI, so I know very little about it, except everyone believes it’s easier to get tuning software that works well, while the first OBDII cars that were produced (1996’s) are a pain to find tuning software for, or tuners.
Anyway, I digress...
So I have no need to be concerned, and yes, that damn thing drives me crazy too, I wonder if removing it would cause any issues. If not, then I’ll probably be tempted to remove mine also.
Thank you for the response and sharing your helpful knowledge !!!
I appreciate your time and energy...

K&N Gen II Cold Air Intake, HB Removed, Jet Airfoil, TB bypass, Stealth Brake Biasing, Cat Back Exhaust w/ side by side crossover.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BALLSS View Post
???, when I turn my key "on" there is no ding ding unless the door is open while doing so I think

It dings if the turn signal is left on for a period of time

The dinger is just to let you know the door is open and I believe headlights left on if you remove key with them on (unless you have headlight sentinel)

not anything to do with any PCM pre check
Mark and you have both given me the same information in that I have nothing to be overly concerned with because it has nothing to do with an OBDII cars onboard diagnostics.
I thank you for your time and effort, as well as the accurate information regarding this Little Ding issue we’ve all got going on.
It sounds to me like you’ve got a;
“Little Dinger Thing” going on also BALLSS...
LOL....
I’m sorry, I had to go there...
But seriously folks...
None of us need to worry about our ‘Dingers’.... Great news...
Just as an FYI though, when it’s working properly, my car does the ding ding ding thing in the first KO position with my doors closed, no turn signals active, and the lights off.
I have noticed though that once in a while, if I don’t turn my ignition switch to start with a solid and complete full turn to its stop, my starter does a solenoid engagement slip, where it makes a nasty noise and doesn’t start the car, then when I turn the ignition on again making sure I turn the key fully and with intent, it starts no problem.
Perhaps my ignition key switch and tumblers needs attention as Mark suggested, or at least a thorough examination of its contacts, connectors, and use of some electrical contact cleaner to make sure there’s no electrical current being lost due to corrosion of the contacts.
Once again, thank you all for the help!
I appreciate it greatly!!!
Have a great day...

K&N Gen II Cold Air Intake, HB Removed, Jet Airfoil, TB bypass, Stealth Brake Biasing, Cat Back Exhaust w/ side by side crossover.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 10:42 AM
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By " habit" I always turn the key to run and wait until the FP stop priming then turn to start. It always instantly fires up vs the few cranks it would take with just turning the key to start immediately.

Either way is not a problem but just by habit I let the FP prime first.

The starter thing where the solenoid won't completely engage forward resulting in that "sound" of disengagement (starter gear & FW grind sound) can mean the starter solenoid is wearing and/or the wiring at the starter is fatigued (old battery cables).

IMHO the go to starter if anyone needs one is the Corvette gear reduction starter at Autozone. Cheaper & lighter than OEM replacement and is a true "gear reduction" starter

\'96 BBB 383/T-56
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 01:37 PM
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In 1994 the chime is also connected to the fasten seat belt circuit.


So if you latch the driver's belt then KO no chime, But if you just KO it chimes and turns on the seat belt light.

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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z09B4U View Post
In 1994 the chime is also connected to the fasten seat belt circuit.


So if you latch the driver's belt then KO no chime, But if you just KO it chimes and turns on the seat belt light.
Well i guess you learn something new everyday !
after work got in car and turn key and whata ya know "Ding" "Ding" !
i turn key off.
i put on seat belt i turn key....no "ding" "ding"

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 01:20 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BALLSS View Post
By " habit" I always turn the key to run and wait until the FP stop priming then turn to start. It always instantly fires up vs the few cranks it would take with just turning the key to start immediately.

Either way is not a problem but just by habit I let the FP prime first.

The starter thing where the solenoid won't completely engage forward resulting in that "sound" of disengagement (starter gear & FW grind sound) can mean the starter solenoid is wearing and/or the wiring at the starter is fatigued (old battery cables).

IMHO the go to starter if anyone needs one is the Corvette gear reduction starter at Autozone. Cheaper & lighter than OEM replacement and is a true "gear reduction" starter
Yes, that’s similar to what I do.
I get in, shut the door, put the key in and turn to the KO position and wait for 3 dings and the doors to lock before I turn it to the Start position, I do this also to allow the fuel pump to prime before engaging the starter.
I replaced the starter about a year ago with a damn Cardone starter. It’s a new version not rebuilt but it was the only one I could find in stock in the whole valley.
Been putting off replacing it with the Corvette ACDelco cuz it has a lifetime warranty. But that doesn’t give me a huge amount of confidence in the starter
With the dinger going in and out at the key turning process (not door or lights on, they always ding), I’m inclined to believe Mark hit it with the key tumbler and internal contact mechanism that may be the culprit.
I’m going to spray some electrical contact cleaner in the key hole, turn the switch back and forth a few times, and give it a quick shot of graphite lubricant.
Since I have learned the dinger does nothing but irritate 1996 Impala owners, I’m really not that concerned with the ding, but I am concerned that there may be a voltage drop at the key switch that goes to the solenoid, thus causing the solenoid to kick out prematurely once in a while.
I don’t want to destroy my flex plate, a $100 part that requires $300 in labor to replace.
I will look into the Autozone starter you mentioned, which brand Corvette GR starter are you referring to ?
I try to use ACDelco OEM class whenever I can get parts of that type.

I do want to thank you for the input and advice, I appreciate your time and effort !!!

K&N Gen II Cold Air Intake, HB Removed, Jet Airfoil, TB bypass, Stealth Brake Biasing, Cat Back Exhaust w/ side by side crossover.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 01:35 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z09B4U View Post
In 1994 the chime is also connected to the fasten seat belt circuit.


So if you latch the driver's belt then KO no chime, But if you just KO it chimes and turns on the seat belt light.
I’m with Angelo here...😃
Learning something new myself, Not surprisingly, I’ve learned so much stuff here from so many ISSF members I can’t thank them all...
Except I have a 96 Impala so not sure if it applies, I’ll check just for the other 96 owners out there.
If there’s a way to turn off that damn dinging with the driver door open, I’d love to know that one.
I’m working on replacing my drivers door window regulator and I either have to stuff a rag in there to hold the door open switch closed (which tends to fall out every 2 minutes) or disconnect the battery so I don’t have that damn dinger going constantly while I’m working on it driving me crazy. 🤪

K&N Gen II Cold Air Intake, HB Removed, Jet Airfoil, TB bypass, Stealth Brake Biasing, Cat Back Exhaust w/ side by side crossover.
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