The AC Delco 19383531 Remanufactured vs Ebay Rebuild service - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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The AC Delco 19383531 Remanufactured vs Ebay Rebuild service

So the time has arrived to take the plunge and replace my Opti, and thought a new thread for this part would be a good idea as it doesn't belong in the Cheap Opti thread - either for price or quality of components. I considered the Petris part, but didn't see any mention of core credit, so at 350$ I figured I'd rather put that extra coin in the replacement ACD water pump. This Petris was mentioned in my previous thread on Opti replacement;

https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...60-petris.html

Price for this ACD is 327.79 - 75 core charge = 252.79

The ebay service lists for 310 - 70 core charge = 240.00

To date I haven't seen any confirmation about the sensor in the reman ACD unit, is it the beloved Mitsubishi component or some cheaper alternative? Also planning on doing the vacuum/harness testing as well, as I've read too many threads here of people doing this R&R and STILL have a CEL related to the Opti.

Without any more information I'm inclined to use the Ebay service for the simple peace of mind of getting YOUR unit rebuilt and then confirmed video of it bench tested. The downside is your vehicle is down for a week or 2 during the turn around. But looking at all the videos of people performing an Opti R&R I think breaking up the job into 2 parts is the better way to go for me. I will be replacing the water pump and required seals. On the parts list will be the marking pen to mark the wires on each side, as well as the harmonic balancer position. Also the drive seal installer tool and gasket;

https://www.amazon.com/Water-Drive-1...dp/B07VYLTDDN/

I watched the 4 videos on Youtube from Goldmaster/michiganshooter, and didn't see any other specialty tools I'd need besides the seal installer. I already have a puller for the balancer. Are there any other tools, tips or tricks for my 95 SS I should know about? I plan on draining my coolant before starting (and bleed when done), so I was considering that this might be a good time to replace the dreaded weak T connector with the replacement brass part I put together but haven't installed. Will be taking pix of everything and tracking the turn around time for the Opti rebuild, ASSUMING I manage to get it pulled and in the mail next week.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 10:55 AM
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Your detailed background and train of thought commands insights that may cinch your decisions one way or 'tother. I always appreciate peace of mind as much as anyone. But I find peace in doing stuff myself first for the enjoyment of learning something new, but also as important is paying a fraction doing it myself and KNOWING it's right (even if making 10 mistakes along the way) v. throwing it over the fence for multiple times that cost and "praying for the best". :: preaches off ::
First, do you still have your oem dist? Seems you do since having the car down any time is an issue. Anyone still having theirs should SERIOUSLY entertain the advantages of first checking the bearing for pass/fail, since that seems the hardest thing to change out (one guy did it though). Maybe figure it's getting close to being toast by ~150k. If under that and not too tight or sloppy then WAY ahead by ferreting out all the BEST parts for a super dooper careful tune-up - using all the combined hints and parts from the thirty-ten threads on the topic. The only thing I haven't seen mentioned already at least 50x is to 'seal' the bearing in its race with a Locktite product if there's play at all when you loosen the two bearing retainer bolts - supposedly deals with oil sucking in if the vent harness is at all blocked???.


With a home rebuild you are completely eliminating worry about: 'supposed "Mitsubishi Quality" this n that', misclocked wheel, cheap bearing, loose screws you have to check and locktite anyway, missing/poorly installed gummy seals or otherwise poor quality flimsy cap n rotor with equally flimsy alum. contacts. And your car is down only as long as the R&R takes, not a week.



There's no way in hayol I would NOT do new plugs/wires while everything's open -- unless of course you'd already done that all less than 2 years earlier. Marking wires is ok, but elec. number decals much better. Save the magic marker just to use the cap to install the WP seal, which BTW comes with the overall frontend gasket set which you want anyway (get FelPro).


What else; you had to have read all about the certain male and female little Torx drivers needed, including the deep one for the cap. And how easy it is to snap the cap screws And treat yourself to a tube of blue locktite and a big tube of di-elec. grease. Some guys back up greasing the gaskets with a screed of RTV over the seam? or even shellacking the whole thing watertite?


Just a thought; if you go the replacement route you plan so far then detail write-up progression great with this thread. If you rebuild yourself then maybe attach to one of several threads already on the topic - for better searches dontchaknow.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!

Last edited by 96 Black; 08-13-2019 at 05:48 PM.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Black, yes, I've already replaced ALL the other ignition components, spark plugs, wires, EGR, cleaned the MAF, etc. About the only thing I haven't done yet was perform vacuum tests on the fittings as suggested in other threads. I really like the idea of the 'rebuilt by a pro' and then some bench video CONFIRMING it works. I can't imagine all the other guys in the forum that have had to do MULTIPLE swaps because of bad Optis. Screw that, I'm doing in ONCE - the RIGHT way. And with the best quality parts I can find. I very much appreciate all the feedback I get here from the folks that know this car best. I really don't mind rolling up my sleeves and getting this done if I know in advance what tools I need, and have a YT vid for reference. I've already warned Ace Jr that he needs to make time to hand dad tools and take some pix while we get this done. I also ordered the Torx 4 socket so I can have look at the inside of mine before sending it off for rebuild.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 05:46 PM
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I have 2 used OEM optis. One came from my car from a misdiagnosis many years ago of a bad opti when my car had 52K. Bought new opti from Dal and installed it not knowing the true problem. It was a bad coil. Should have bought more OEM opti then now seeing the insanity on this item. Guaranteed good with Mitsu.

Details to follow..................

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Last edited by grandpas wagon; 08-13-2019 at 05:52 PM.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 06:31 PM
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Couple of things....

On the rebuild, I would go that route but dont like that 1 company you were considering. Their whole "Mitsubishi Quality Sensor" thing bothers me cause if it was Mitsu, then he would say so. The other rebuild service listed in Post 4 of your other thread looks like the much better option.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/322692854278

It says he will use the Mitsu sensor and replace the the bearing AND include a new MSD Cap and Rotor!! That's a pretty good deal. That is the guy I would use as I like all that he offers and does for that cost.


The other thing, I would seriously consider an ENTIRE Coolant Drain and Flush while the system is down. This would include removing both Knock Sensors to drain the block and flush/clean the Heater Core and Reservoir. Also replace the Flow Restrictor (they get brittle and break) in the heater hose and a new Pressure Cap. Like the Metal Tee Fitting idea and did this myself in a Stainless Tee with some "HELP" Hose barbs on all 3 ends.

I'd probably leave the Crank Seal alone if it was not leaking.....Buuuuuut you do have things apart, soooo??? It's a tough call cause it is some more work to pull the Crank Hub, buuuuut?? Decisions, decisions....
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 08:24 PM
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I can speak from experience using the rebuilt Opti from the guy on eBay. I replaced the OEM Opti on one of my '96 SS's as a preventive maintenance step since it had 140k on it at the time and the front of the motor apart to do a cam swap, fix the infamous oil leak from the water pump drive seal, replace a leaking water pump, etc etc. I can't speak for the life expectancy of the part, but I can say that the replacement Opti worked great for around 5k miles before the car was wrecked and I parked it until I can fix the front end damage. I still crank it up from time to time and have no issues with starting. I chose to keep my original as a spare in case of emergency since it was still working when replaced.

Long story short, the eBay rebuilt Opti gets a thumbs-up from me.

I Aim to Misbehave..
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 05:58 AM Thread Starter
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@4DdoorSS

Quote from my initial post;

"Without any more information I'm inclined to use the Ebay service for the simple peace of mind of getting YOUR unit rebuilt and then confirmed video of it bench tested."

So I am using the ebay guy;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/322692854278

and NOT the other one with the 'Mitsubishi grade' component.

https://petrisenterprises.com/collec...rk-distributor

Glad to hear another thumbs up for this service from aircraft_mech.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aircraft_mech View Post
I can speak from experience using the rebuilt Opti from the guy on eBay. I replaced the OEM Opti on one of my '96 SS's as a preventive maintenance step since it had 140k on it at the time and the front of the motor apart to do a cam swap, fix the infamous oil leak from the water pump drive seal, replace a leaking water pump, etc etc. I can't speak for the life expectancy of the part, but I can say that the replacement Opti worked great for around 5k miles before the car was wrecked and I parked it until I can fix the front end damage. I still crank it up from time to time and have no issues with starting. I chose to keep my original as a spare in case of emergency since it was still working when replaced.

Long story short, the eBay rebuilt Opti gets a thumbs-up from me.

I can also confirm that we had a brand new original opti that we sold to a customer who proceeded to improperly install it and he destroyed the bearing and the cap from the rotor getting cocked when he forced it in the wrong slot on the cam. I sent it to this guy and he replaced the bearing and the cap and sent it back in perfect working condition so I would use him again in a heartbeat if I needed too.


Mike--Hamilton Chevy
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
I can also confirm that we had a brand new original opti that we sold to a customer who proceeded to improperly install it and he destroyed the bearing and the cap from the rotor getting cocked when he forced it in the wrong slot on the cam. I sent it to this guy and he replaced the bearing and the cap and sent it back in perfect working condition so I would use him again in a heartbeat if I needed too.
Mike--Hamilton Chevy



Thank you for a vendor's point of view of a return from a "repair". I have always wondered how many returned OPTIs were functional or damaged by the buyer. I have been wondering how much of a OPTI's cost is the cost of checking returned parts due to improper diagnostics or "parts swapping".

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Bigger fish to fry

So now that I'm driving the car again, discovered that the AC needed recharge again... It didn't get driven all winter so the cold New England winter shrivels up the 24 year old seals and lets the refrigerant leak out. I don't see any obvious leaks (oily residue on the lines), so headed to WalMart and picked up recharge can. Read instructions, charge system. Hmm, fill gauge shows it still looks a little low? Check the FSM for HVAC capacity, 1lb 12oz. Back to Walmart for another can, and bing bang boom, AC working like a champ. But its hot and humid up here, and as the car is running OK I am putting off replacing the OPTI with the rebuild service until the weather gets much drier and cooler.

Plus, I have a wet trunk and need to figure out the proper fix as it was suggested in another thread to check the roof seams?

Also need to pick up a set of steel rims for a set of snow tires, as these all season tires will have zero traction with any amount of snow given how wide they are.
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