Your detailed background and train of thought commands insights that may cinch your decisions one way or 'tother. I always appreciate peace of mind as much as anyone. But I find peace in doing stuff myself first for the enjoyment of learning something new, but also as important is paying a fraction doing it myself and KNOWING it's right (even if making 10 mistakes along the way) v. throwing it over the fence for multiple times that cost and "praying for the best". :: preaches off ::
First, do you still have your oem dist? Seems you do since having the car down any time is an issue. Anyone still having theirs should SERIOUSLY entertain the advantages of first checking the bearing for pass/fail, since that seems the hardest thing to change out (one guy did it though). Maybe figure it's getting close to being toast by ~150k. If under that and not too tight or sloppy then WAY ahead by ferreting out all the BEST parts for a super dooper careful tune-up - using all the combined hints and parts from the thirty-ten threads on the topic. The only thing I haven't seen mentioned already at least 50x is to 'seal' the bearing in its race with a Locktite product if there's play at all when you loosen the two bearing retainer bolts - supposedly deals with oil sucking in if the vent harness is at all blocked???.
With a home rebuild you are completely eliminating worry about
: 'supposed "Mitsubishi Quality" this n that', misclocked wheel, cheap bearing, loose screws you have to check and locktite anyway, missing/poorly installed gummy seals or otherwise poor quality flimsy cap n rotor with equally flimsy alum. contacts. And your car is down only as long as the R&R takes, not a week.
There's no way in hayol I would NOT do new plugs/wires while everything's open -- unless of course you'd already done that all less than 2 years earlier. Marking wires is ok, but elec. number decals much better. Save the magic marker just to use the cap to install the WP seal, which BTW comes with the overall frontend gasket set which you want anyway (get FelPro).
What else; you had to have read all about the certain male and female little Torx drivers needed, including the deep one for the cap. And how easy it is to snap the cap screws
And treat yourself to a tube of blue locktite and a big tube of di-elec. grease. Some guys back up greasing the gaskets with a screed of RTV over the seam? or even shellacking the whole thing watertite?
Just a thought; if you go the replacement route you plan so far then detail write-up progression great with this thread. If you rebuild yourself then maybe attach to one of several threads already on the topic - for better searches dontchaknow.
\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
Last edited by 96 Black; 08-13-2019 at 05:48 PM.