You will need a fuel line disconnect tool, I have a cheap Lisle set I bought from Sears. You need these tools!
With the tank lowerd a bit you have easier acess to the fuel suppy and return lines. Move the rubber boot out the way and you'll see the QD. Use the disconnect tools. Select the appropiatly sized one and with the sleve facing up into the connection push it in. You might have to puch the line a little to get it in. It should slide in and then pull the lines apart. If its taking alot of effort, stop your no fully ***-engauging the QD.
Now you're ready to drop the tank and pull it out so you can work on it. Dont forget to diconnect the wiring harness from the retainers on the body. Once the tank is out you should clean the area above it before removing the retianing ring for the fuelpump and sender assembly. The retainer is held in place with Six 10mm nuts. Pull out the fuelpump and sender assembly.
Remove the wiring and Take the cap off of the fuelpump housing, there a few tabs. Be carefull when pulling out the purple wire, it has a tight retainer and you wouldnt want to break the sender assembly. I would strongly suggest you install a new in tank harness. Compare the new one to the old one and make sure the wres are in the proper terminal location.
Slide new fuel pump into housing and reconnect the wires. Install a new strainer to keep your warranty valid.
Use the new O-ring that comes with the fuelpump and install the sender and pump assembly. Tighten the nuts in a cross over pattern. I'm not sure what the spec is but they were pretty loose when I removed them, I'd say 40" lbs. Put the tank on the jack and get it close to mounted. Connect the supply, evap and return lines and wiring harness. Time to perform an operational check. Underhood, have your fuel pressure gauge connected and some wire or terminal clips. The fuelpump "jumper" alows you energize the fuelpump by yourself from under the hood. Connect a lead to the battery + positive terminal and another to the fuelpump "jumper".
The gauge should read 45psi or better. Mine read close to fifty.
Now for the fun part, remounting the tank. The less difficult was is to completely remove the drives side strap and cross strap. Its held on with th 15mm bolt. You will need a ;ong extension or two. Jack the tank up and get the passenger side strap bolted in. Now you will have to fight the fillerneck hose back on, feel free to beat and kick the tank into submission. Use a set of tapered punches to help align the tank strap and mount holes. Loosely mount the driver's side foward tank strp mount, this will help you install the rear bolt a little easier. When all you hardware is loosely installed, then go ahead and tighten them all up.
Let me know if I missed anything, I've had my tank in and out 2 tims in the past two days.