First things first, take off the sound insulator. Just two screws at the front edge, mine were both 7mm.
And there's one wing nut at the back, right above the accelerator pedal assembly. Also note, that this wing nut screws off, but to reinstall just put it in place and push it straight on, it's thin enough that it's meant to do that. Makes putting it back on much easier. I also recommend putting the front screws back in first when reinstalling, otherwise the whole stupid thing will want to lay on your head.
Now you should be able to see that when I lift up on my gas pedal, a roughly 1/4" gap shows up between the cable and whatever that spring thingy is. The best repair I've found so far, since this cable doesn't seem to be adjustable, is to just put a zip around the cable in that gap. I wasn't crazy about that idea and I doubt it would last very long, especially if you're aggressive with the go fast pedal.
I popped into one of my local hardware stores, poked around in the various drawers of things in the nuts and bolts aisle, and eventually came across this. It's an aluminum cable stop. They come in different sizes, and I forgot to write down which it was, but the smallest one in the box was labeled 1/16", and this was the next size up. It's roughly 1/4" long as well as diameter.
Now to get it onto the cable, it needs a slot. A bench vise would work much better, but I don't have one so I stuck it in my small needle nose vise grips.
And then cut a slot with a hack saw with a thin blade. I wasn't too sure how big I was going to need the slot, so I used the thinnest blade I had on hand. Starting the cut was a pain in the tuckus, and having it in a bench vise would help dramatically. Even so, once I finally got the slot started, I was able to cut it in just a minute or so and without removing any of my fingers.
To deburr the inner hole, just stick a 7/64" drill bit in from either end, twirl it around and then repeat from the other end. This would also be another way to check for the correct size of one of these things, a 7/64" drill bit should just fit through the hole. I also found that my slot wasn't quite big enough to fit it over the cable, so holding it with the vise grips again I stuck a small flat blade screwdriver into the gap and carefully spread it out until it would go on easily. Don't worry if you mark up the slot, it won't matter in the least.
This part will probably suck the most, actually getting it on there. It should just slip on, but you'll almost certainly need both hands up in there so there's going to be cursing and the possibility of getting stuck in an uncomfortable position, especially if you've got a little too much padding around the mid-section.
Now the final step is to close it up so it can't come off. I used my largest vise grips for that, and be careful not to crush anything else, but it should squeeze together relatively easily. The bigger the tool here, the easier it'll be. I have one friend who's a total bear, he could probably crush it with a tweezers, but until I tried my largest vise grips, I wasn't even budging it. I got it nearly closed all the way, which it plenty. Even though it can still spin around on the cable, the slot is way too tight now for the cable to ever pop out of it.
At this point, put the insulator back on and go for a drive. I attempted another go at adjusting the other cables, but after doing so I still got the exact same readings from the scan tool. BTW, a scan tool isn't necessary, any method of getting into the PCM is fine. If you have an adapter and TunerPro or Datamaster or whatever, those will also show the TPS voltage for sure, and maybe also the angle. Possibly you may be able to back probe the harness with a multimeter to see what the voltage reading is, but I don't know for sure since I had no reason to try.
And while mine still doesn't indicate that it opens all the way, visual inspection of the throttle body revealed that my blades now open all the way. I also noticed that before I put the covers back on the ASR, all the cables have a nice solid feel, only a slight give before things started moving, whereas before they were all fairly loose and sloppy feeling.
If you would encounter any driveability issues, you may have adjusted something too far, just redo it and don't get as crazy with it. Mine seems fine so far, but I forgot to test my cruise control. Also my pedal feels much better, especially at very slight throttle. I also have a slightly finer degree of control at take off and the car is a little quicker to respond from a stop. My idle seems just fine, when I pulled up the RPM display on the HVAC (I'd already put away my scan tool) I was idling between 600-700 RPMs.
The only other thing I can think of would be on the pedal fix. Since not every cable will have worn the same, you may have more or less stretching than mine did, so you'll have to find a way of dealing with it. If it's less, the cable stop I used would be fine, it would just need to be ground down a little until it takes up the slack without actually pulling back on the cable. If you have more stretch, you'll have to find something else, or try shimming it out with washers (do the same thing, cut a slot in them, and once installed squeeze them shut with a vise grips).
And finally, I still need to deal with the TPS. I believe someone has a write-up on that somewhere, but if not I'll see if I can figure it out and add some more pics of that repair.