AC broke down - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy AC broke down

The last 6 months I noticed that the AC seemed to "steal" alot of Power from the Engine. When the compressor engaged I could really feel it. Yesterday on a parking lot the car made a screech sound and suddenly stopped. After a while I started to suspect the AC compressor. I turned off the AC and the car started right up.

I owned a lot of cars but never had a AC break down on me.
How difficult is it to replace the compressor?

Are there any good aftermarket brands?

Are the compressor in the LT1 same as in the standard 350?

Where I use to buy my parts the ask almost 1000$ for a new one. Would it be wise to buy a used compressor?

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 12:44 PM
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Did you check all the belts?

The L05 and LT1 a/c compressors are different. $1,000 is a rip off. I bought one for my 1994 off ebay for under $250. Works perfect. I took it to my friend's shop so he could properly evacuate and refill the system.

A C Compressor ACDelco Pro 15 22135A | eBay

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Last edited by 96Fleetwood; 06-03-2016 at 12:46 PM.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 03:29 PM
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No don't buy used parts.
I got my replacement kit here;
http://www.northernautoparts.com/ECa...20Conditioning
Rockauto is good too.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 03:36 PM
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I got all the components I needed for my system from: ACKITS.COM

Clear Image Tri-Ys & Hi-Flow cats >> 2.5" X-Pipe & Magnaflow Tri-Chambers, Mike Harris 4L60E, Circle-D 2,400 RPM TC, All MOOG FT End & Del-A-Lum bushed MOOG CTRL Arms, Eibach FT & New Stock HT rear springs. Hotchkis Sway Bars & End Links, RAISS, 3.73 Gears in Eaton carrier, Dynoshaft & CIA Loop, BMR Trailing Arms, Braided Brake Hoses, Taylor Spiro-Pro Wires, AutoMeter Water Temp & Oil PSI Gauges, Impala Console. ATE Blue Brake Fluid. Skip White distributor. 20's, Z28 Cluster, Corbeau GTS Seat
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 04:41 PM
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It's a good idea to change the accumulator and orifice tube at the same time so as not to damage your new compressor, Both are cheap and worth it. Good luck.

Jim B.

'95 9c1, pcmperformance.com 93 tune, Dynomax Ultraflo catback, K & N box filter, LT4 KM, 160 stat, 3.08 Posi.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 05:30 PM
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 07:50 PM
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what happened a few years back the ac compressor had seal leaks. the compressor body had oil on it. didn,t notice the oil until it snapped off the ac pulley . which also damaged the tension-er ..

I did the whole job for $300. replaced compressor/seals/orifice tube/receiver dryer 10OZ pag 150. flushed out the system . borrowed my friends vacuum pump. I have a ac gauge set .

yes a tough job on the compressor R/R. the rear of the compressor is supported by a dog ear that is the hard part.. what is required is mount the compressor in the front first. then lock in the rear support of the compressor dog ear. this is because the compressor must be set into place with no stress on the body of it that is why the rear support is adjustable.

40-45 psi low side 275 psi high side 80deg f air temp engine RPM 1000 blower on max doors open ...cools good for 3 years now.

I know some may not under stand what I am saying but using ac mineral oil on the seals keeps them from leaking. do not use PAG 150 oil on the seals because it reacts with air[moisture].. the ac mineral oil is needed . I got some from my friend who had the vacuum pump. NAPA does have this oil for the seals it was / is used for R12/R22 refrigeration systems . I got the R134 @kmart $10 a 12OZ can.

then with all the belt noise I had to replace the distorted tension-er from the ac compressor locked up on the belt.

shops will charge $1200 for this job !!! more if you buy an ac delco compressor ...
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 10:31 PM
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I cut a slot in the bracket as per some suggestions here:

Not sure if I'll use/need the slotted washer on the backside.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2016, 05:42 AM
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How do you properly charge a 1.75lb system with 12oz cans? It will either be over or under charged.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2016, 06:35 AM
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First thing you need to do is make sure that it is in fact the whole compressor which is the problem. The bearing that supports the clutch assembly can fail, requiring on the compressor clutch to be changed. This happened to one of my other vehicles.

If the whole compressor needs to go, there are some things to look out for. I just did this whole thing for a friend of mine. Few things that are a must for this job, with a failed compressor:

Dump your condenser. Flat-tube condensers are impossible to flush. They hold onto crud and will continue to release garbage back into the rest of the system for pretty much ever.

Dump your old drier/accumulator, orifice tube, and obviously the compressor as well.

Get 4 cans of the flush chemical, and use all 4 cans. The evaporator core will be hiding the most debris. You will be amazed.

Last edited by Viceroy; 06-05-2016 at 06:38 AM.
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