Car doesn´t run ok - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-26-2016, 05:16 AM Thread Starter
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Car doesn´t run ok

I drove my 96 Fleetwood today for the first time in 6-7 weeks. I stopped at a gasstation and then I noticed that the idle was rough. I drove back home again and the car didn´t respond to 100%. Halfway home doing 50mph it seemed ok again and when I stopped at home the idle was fine. The check Engine light came on but is there something I can check Before I let a shop read the codes?
I could be mistaken but I thought I smelled quite strong exhaust fumes in the car the first 7-8 kilometer.

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1996 Fleetwood Brougham "Polly" http://www.garaget.org/?car=359296
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-26-2016, 07:09 AM
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You could check a million things, but the code will narrow it down for sure.

Do you have climate control A/C in your car? If you do you can pull the code through that.

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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-26-2016, 07:24 AM
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I drove my 96 Fleetwood today for the first time in 6-7 weeks. I stopped at a gasstation and then I noticed that the idle was rough. I drove back home again and the car didn´t respond to 100%. Halfway home doing 50mph it seemed ok again and when I stopped at home the idle was fine. The check Engine light came on but is there something I can check Before I let a shop read the codes?
I could be mistaken but I thought I smelled quite strong exhaust fumes in the car the first 7-8 kilometer.
sitting the gasoline may have some water in it . after you drove it the bad fuel at the bottom of the tank may have been consumed . If you do not use this vehicle often always use fuel stabilizer ..

my guess p0300 codes . buy a scan tool cheaper in the long run rather than paying a shop to pull codes. $200 USD will get you a good scan tool diagnostic . OBDII.........
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-26-2016, 08:32 AM
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You can get the codes pulled at a local parts store for FREE. Check with Autozone, Advanced Auto, and O'Reillys. If you do not pull the codes, anything anybody says is speculation.


Unless you are in cold weather, contaminants (mainly water) in the gas is unlikely.

1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, Impala rims, Hydroboost, Recaros, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
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For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-26-2016, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Fred Kiehl View Post
You can get the codes pulled at a local parts store for FREE. Check with Autozone, Advanced Auto, and O'Reillys.
I'm guessing they don't have those stores in Sweden


Tom

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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-26-2016, 11:12 AM
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The onboard HVAC console will not pull every code. I'm certain you're dissecting the Stickies and searching 'stumble'. I would take the fact that it's intermittent as a plus in diagnosing.

Tiny farts of thought:
fuel canister purge: hoses - starting at tank, or solenoid.
Fuel pump or burnt harness sending you early warning.
EGR.
Humid OPTI
Broke ex man bolt
Mouse nest in First Base
Generally dirty injector(s)

But that's just me. GLWF

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-26-2016, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Kiehl View Post
You can get the codes pulled at a local parts store for FREE. Check with Autozone, Advanced Auto, and O'Reillys. If you do not pull the codes, anything anybody says is speculation.


Unless you are in cold weather, contaminants (mainly water) in the gas is unlikely.
I disagree with cold weather causing fuel problems with water created.
actually warm humid weather causes these problems . then with the warm temps things grow in that fuel . fuel separation. I would go to the boating forums on fuel issues you will be an expert after reading all the issues created .

when the cold arrives the water in the air is very much reduced ...
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-26-2016, 03:38 PM
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No matter what, the chances of a car having bad gas is minimal, and I would look elsewhere for the issue. The issue does not indicate low quality gas, especially since it threw a code. The code is the indicator, and will lead to the solution. The OP should pull what codes the HVAC module will extract, and look into the codes he gets for a solution. If it does not pull a code, then he at least knows that it is beyond simple diagnosis, and needs to take it to a mechanic, to determine what the code is, and how to fix the issue.


After pulling the code, he should erase it, and see if it comes back. It may have been a one time glitch.


You are probably right about not having the parts stores in Sweden (did not read the location). That does not prohibit him from pulling his codes through the HVAC module on his own. The first order of business is to pull the codes. Once those are available, maybe some accurate help will follow. No need for chasing a bunch of WAGs.

1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, Impala rims, Hydroboost, Recaros, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-26-2016, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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I don´t Think it´s a gasproblem. I drive on 6 months old gas every spring after the car has been sitting in my garage during Winter.
I charged the battery last night (for the 5th time this year). It gets drained since I don´t drive that often. I checked the battery with my smartcharger today and it showed empty although I fully charged it overnight. The car started right up though but I trust my charger more than the battery. It´s probably too easy but do you Think a bad battery can cause the problem?

 photo polly12_zpsa086d61c.jpg

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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-26-2016, 05:29 PM
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Most chargers read your alt condition, so it's relatively easy to rule it out as the problem. You can try desulficating your battery. I've heard newer cars don't like running with NO battery connected, but never heard a bad one affecting operation once running as long as there's at least something hooked up. Be glad to be told different though.

You need those codes. How many KMs on your Cady?

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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