Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Largo, FL 33774
Be careful flexing the panel. Disconnect ALL of the tree fasteners before lifting the bottom of the panel to any great degree. It is only heat welded to the top panel, and the heat welds are easy to break.
The run channel is the rubber insert around the window frame that the window runs in when going up and down. The front is fairly easy to remove, just be careful, because it can catch the clips for the reveal, and rip them off of the reveal. You have to work it out of the window frame. It is held in by its shape. You can start at the front by pulling on the edge of it. Common sense will figure it out. Once it is far enough out to see the first two to three reveal clips, you should be able to get enough room to remove the reveal clips, and see the mirror nuts.
The reveal clips have "teeth" on them, and bite into the surface of the metal they are attached to. Using the screw driver, try to lift the clip teeth off of the metal to slide the clip toward the opening. Once you see them, you will understand. Putting tape on the screw driver may or may not be enough to protect your paint/trim. There is a stainless reveal on the outside of the window frame, and if you want to remove it, you can then use the screw driver with tape on it. The top stainless trim is difficult to remove. Do not damage the little black strip along the outside of the trim if you are removing it. The black piece is not repairable, and the entire piece is few and far between, and the 91-93 will fit the 94-96, but it is not downward compatible without a small modification. If you are going to remove it, you must also put a piece of tape above and below the trim on the door at the top of the stainless trim, so the top "nut" does not scratch the paint. The part clamps over the edge of the window frame, and has a blade on the front triangle that slides into the end of the trim piece. Do not break/bend the blade when removing the trim if you are going remove it. You may be able to get away with using the screw driver covered in tape with the stainless steel piece in place, just do not dent it.
There should be one interior reveal clip on the vertical part of the triangle area, and two on the angle of the front of the window frame. Those should be enough to allow you to flex the trim enough to access the mirror nuts. They require a 10mm socket. Be careful to not drop them into the door.
1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, Impala rims, Hydroboost, Recaros, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html