Re-doing plastics, dash and headliner. Take a look - Chevy Impala SS Forum
 4Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 882
 
Red face Re-doing plastics, dash and headliner. Take a look

Car is currently being repainted. I am going with a much darker color so I am changing things inside to match.
First up: dash recover.
The vinyl cover that was on the dash when I bought it was failing. Pulled it off, and the dash was destroyed underneath. I purchased another dash off of ebay with the intention of getting it wrapped in some ultra high-quality vinyl so it was like leather. Well, the upholstery shop wanted $1000. I noped the hell out and decided to have a go myself. I bought this padded vinyl from Albright's Supply after doing some research. The material I bought was colorfast and has an amazing texture and feel. Due to the way the material is cut, you will need 2 yards and roll it out lengthwise. (Its not wide enough off the roll)

It came out better than I could have ever expected. Total time in just the dash was about 5 hours.

With everything, prep is key, but you WILL need a heat-gun to really do it justice. First thing I did was wash the dash down with soap and water. Then I went over it with mineral spirits to remove any adhesive, armor-all, watever. Then I washed it again. Finally I used SEM Soap to remove any traces of the mineral spirits. The dash looked like it had been in the sun for a century, but that's what I wanted to see. For adhesive, I used DAP Weldwood Landeau Cement and followed the instructions to a "T". I thought about 3M web-spray adhesive (#80) but the high-temp adhesion wasn't ideal. Applied cement to both surfaces and let them sit for 20 minutes or so. OPEN A DAMN WINDOW with this stuff - it's hella smelly. This particular adhesive will give you about 30-45 minutes to actually work it, but if it sets-up too much before adhesion, you can refresh it by applying a new coat and letting it sit for 15.

Gently lay the vinyl over the dash - do not press down! Once you apply pressure, you're done - so make sure everything is where you want it. Starting from the center, by the defroster vent, start applying light pressure to get it to tack. (Apply 25# of pressure later...) Smooth it all out as you go. When things are where you want them, use a small wood roller and push down with about 25# of pressure to lock it. Use a convex roller and some heat to push down the vinyl into the dash at the angles. Once you hit the gauge area, things get complicated so take your time. Break out the heat gun and using as low heat as possible, start working those curves. Do a small area at a time. Heat, stretch, apply to surface, pressure, hold, and clamp. As it cools, it will try to pull back. Just the gauge area took me about 30 minutes to get right - so don't rush this part.

Take the same amount of care for ALL of the complex curves on the dash. Do so, and you'll be fine.

FOR THE AIRBAG - and this is super duper important - using a razor, slice the backing on the vinyl around the perimeter of the airbag cover. Then, once everything is glued down, using a screen-beading installation tool and your heat gun, heat up the area where the airbag cover is and while the vinyl is hot - run the tool around the perimeter of the airbag cover. Push down as deep as you can. This will thin-out and stretch the vinyl and make the entire area weaker, thinner, and more brittle. In the unfortunate event of an airbag deployment, since the backing was cut and the area made weak - the bag will blow right through. As with everything, YMMV.

Let it sit for 24-48 hours for full cure. My wife said it looks better than the dash in her 2018 Explorer limited and I kind of agree. Here is the end result. Not too bad for about $75 in materials:

I will be painting that defroster cover.





Detail of surface texture. Its super supple and feels exactly like leather:


Next up - the headliner.
I didn't notice it until I pulled it out, but it had really, really faded. I called the upholstery shop for a quote, and they said $750. Again, that's a big "no-f-ing-way" from me. I purchased 5 yards of backed suede from Albright's and went to work. First remove as much of the material off the fiberboard as you can. I was able to pull off large swatches in the center, but as I got towards the edges it really started to stick. I put on a mask and got out an electric sander with some drywall sanding screens. Sanded off the remainder of the foam backing until I had a completely flat backer. Washed it outside and let it dry in the sun and then vacuumed it. I used 3M headliner adhesive and burned through 3 cans. Follow the directions to the letter. DO NOT APPLY A LOT OF PRESSURE when sticking your liner to the board - you may get some bleed-through if you do.

Roll out your material across the board and give it a rough cut to size/shape. Then roll it back on itself - foam backing facing out. Apply adhesive to 6-10" of the material, and 6-10" of the headliner board. Let them tack up according to the directions.

Start from one end and roll it out across the tacked adhesive. Only do a bit at a time because unlike the DAP adhesive above, this stuff grabs instantly and does not let it go. You have one shot to get it right. If you're going suede, mistakes are expensive. Start at the center and smooth it out to the edges. Apply more adhesive, let it tack, roll, smooth, apply more adhesive... you get the idea. Do not rush it. Suede does not stretch worth a damn, so take extra time with the openings. I worked on mine for about 8 hours total and was left with this:

It came out absolutely flawless, but left me with a problem - the A, B, C and D pillars are gray inside and it looked a bit wonky to go directly from the black suede to the gray uprights. So they got painted.

Plastic re-dye/recolor
SEM products. Use nothing else, and use their processes to the letter. On my wagon, I carefully drilled out the plastic welds at on the covers behind the rear seats. This allowed me to paint the C pillar parts independent of the lowers. Start with good old hot water and soap and wash everything down. Dry thoroughly. Then use SEM Soap on everything. Scrub with a sponge and then rinse with water. Second step is SEM plastic and leather prep. I bought one spray can and have lots left after doing almost every part inside the car. Spray, let it sit, and then wipe in ONE DIRECTION - changing rags often. This stuff removes any trace of grease, oil, adhesive, whatever. Now you're ready to paint.

Get SEM Sand Free adhesion promoter (2 cans) and whatever SEM color coat you want. The color coat is a flexible coating - unlike regular spray bomb paint - so it will flex and breathe with the plastics. It can also be used on fabric. I chose the satin black because I don't like shiny plastic. The paint does not cover like a regular paint - so you'll need a lot more of it than you think to ensure good coverage. I burned through 5 cans of paint total once all was said and done. Note - this particular color was a dead match to my headliner suede. I used it to paint the visors - which came out perfect.

The Sand Free stuff is interesting. You put a good coat of it on the plastic first, and then while its wet - you apply the color coat. The Sand Free draws the color into the plastic as it dries. Start with one light coat of color, let it flash, and then recoat until you are happy. This stuff is also way more pungent than regular paint. Make sure you use in a well-ventilated area.

I know I'm not the only one to be pissed after painting plastic and then have the color come off by scratching at it with your fingernail. Use the steps above and you won't have that problem. I can dig in hard with my nail and the color stays put. REALLY scraping it will remove the color (hurrrr durrr...) so don't do that.

Here's the end result:
(Applied new red pinstriping too...)








Finally, I got these two new doodads to install once I get the car back next week:

The alcantara is a nice compliment to the headliner and the wheel fits nicely in your hand

And I broke down and got this... I think I'm one of the first. Looking forward to seeing it all come together!
NADACOP, KingsKrew and 4DoorSS like this.


1995 Caprice ERE 383, CIA long tubes, Dynomax VT's, RAISS, Kore3/Z06 brakes, 3.42 posi, Boss 338 20's, 12 way seats, Impala SS console, etc etc etc

Last edited by atlantadan; 12-17-2018 at 04:29 AM.
atlantadan is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 882
 
Follow-up:
Albrights Supply shipped things out same day and I had them in my hands about 2-3 days later. They also are excellent to get advice from on materials. Call them and they'll help you pick materials to meet your project's needs

The suede on the headliner and the dash material are a standard black. The SEM color coat is satan's-asscrack-black. Not an exact match, but not far enough away to really bug me.

The SEM plastic and leather prep spray AND the SEM sand free will weaken any existing paint. Do not get that stuff on any paint you want to keep.

For reassembly of the C-pillar plastics (and any other plastic repair..), use 3m two part plastic weld. I've tried a bunch of stuff and nothing works better.


1995 Caprice ERE 383, CIA long tubes, Dynomax VT's, RAISS, Kore3/Z06 brakes, 3.42 posi, Boss 338 20's, 12 way seats, Impala SS console, etc etc etc

Last edited by atlantadan; 12-16-2018 at 01:11 PM. Reason: spellz
atlantadan is offline  
post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 10:50 AM
Senior Member
 
babywag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: California
Posts: 976
 
Looks very nice, great job!!

I'll add that around here upholstery shops are insane.
They seem to just pull prices outta their ass.
Used to be reasonable but far from it these days.
Local one quoted me $850 for headliner if I brought it to them.
~5yrs ago it was $200...
babywag is offline  
 
post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 882
 
Thanks! I'm working really hard towards my goal of spending all of my discretionary funds on this car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag View Post
Local one quoted me $850 for headliner if I brought it to them.
~5yrs ago it was $200...
Yeah, I was blown away. They said $750 and I replied with "Uh, I'll bring the headliner board and the material to you - I just need you to put the material on the board." They said "We know. $750". There's the occasional Craigslist ad with someone offering to install one for $40, but color me skeptical that their work is worth a damn.


1995 Caprice ERE 383, CIA long tubes, Dynomax VT's, RAISS, Kore3/Z06 brakes, 3.42 posi, Boss 338 20's, 12 way seats, Impala SS console, etc etc etc
atlantadan is offline  
post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 11:36 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 7,705
 
Good pics/write-up. Thanks for sources. Couple ??:
I take it the donor dash had zero cracks to fill - just terminal fade?

Next this part:

[QUOTE]: FOR THE AIRBAG - and this is super duper important - using a razor, slice the backing on the vinyl around the perimeter of the airbag cover. Then, once everything is glued down, using a screen-beading installation tool and your heat gun, heat up the area where the airbag cover is and while the vinyl is hot - run the tool around the perimeter of the airbag cover. Push down as deep as you can. This will thin-out and stretch the vinyl and make the entire area weaker, thinner, and more brittle. In the unfortunate event of an airbag deployment, since the backing was cut and the area made weak - the bag will blow right through. As with everything, YMMV.

Why not cover the dash less opening and simply cover bag lid separately? Was not enough gap between the two with already one layer of covering to add another? Your "scoring-thinning-brittlizing" approach sounds sound, but completely cleaving the lid would bulletproof proper function during deployment. Just wondering as I recalled when I had mine out and apart for cleaning that the lid was not hard to seat when reassembling everything.


EDIT: Forum is up to its old tricks. None but the ORIGINAL post appeared when I replied

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!

Last edited by 96 Black; 12-16-2018 at 11:39 AM. Reason: GRRRR
96 Black is offline  
post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 12:08 PM
Senior Member
 
babywag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: California
Posts: 976
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by atlantadan View Post
Thanks! I'm working really hard towards my goal of spending all of my discretionary funds on this car.


Yeah, I was blown away. They said $750 and I replied with "Uh, I'll bring the headliner board and the material to you - I just need you to put the material on the board." They said "We know. $750". There's the occasional Craigslist ad with someone offering to install one for $40, but color me skeptical that their work is worth a damn.
Same place quoted me $500 to make pair of front seat covers.
I had already removed from a seat for them to use as patterns.
No remove/install labor just make some new covers.

Again though great work, that is hard work and takes a LOT of patience to get good results.
babywag is offline  
post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 01:07 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: northeast
Posts: 3,437
 
your posting is revealing you have great fabrication abilities ..It does take a lot of time and patience.. I did my dash many years ago but I did not do what you did. my dash light gray was turning to a brown color as the dye starting to vaporize off the vinyl .. so I did a lot of research back then .. paint it with the SEM paint for vinyl or use a water based dye .. so the reason I did the dye is the dye is UV resistant and if I can if necessary , do some touch up in place. well this job I did I removed the dash and washed it down with dish soap .. then washed it down with denatured alcohol .. I put on 5 coats of the dye.. this dye is also used on the leather .. so far my dash still looks great .. I also used this lt gray dye on my driver seat as the leather dye does wear down a bit.

I have also used this on the plastic parts as well .. did the same process.. I paid $25 for 16OZ ... so no waste not like using a spray can .. used 8OZ so far ..

the dye is dye so it does not scrap off .. must use gloves the dye does not come off easy .
dye can be brushed on or sprayed on you can even use a cloth to apply this dye ..
Leather technologies Virginia ..

doing that roof liner this is a tough one .. its huge ..
j cat is offline  
post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 06:07 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Port Orange, FL or in the air
Posts: 1,157
 
Send a message via AIM to rh96ss
That looks awesome.

Rob
1996 BBB Impala SS - Sold
1995 DGGM Caprice Wagon - Sold
1995 MGM Caprice Wagon - Sold
1995 MGM Caprice Wagon - Sold to Cracka
rh96ss is offline  
post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 06:36 PM
Senior Member
 
gbhs72's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Lawton, Ok
Posts: 1,473
 
Dan, As I admired the work you have done here I just couldn't help but notice something. That is the cleanest workbench I have ever seen. What's your occupation? Brain surgeon.

Mark: Snowman-33
j cat likes this.

93 9C1: Work & Cubic Ca$h This started with a new headlight and fender Celeritas In Conficiendo
gbhs72 is offline  
post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 09:35 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 30
 
What is the name of the material? By the way it’s did an amazing job looks good...
1low96ss is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevy Impala SS Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome