Door lock switch no workie - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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Door lock switch no workie

I don't have my manuals here at work, and I'm trying to think of what involved for the door lock switch by the pull handle in the door is not functioning any more.

I assume that must go down to a solenoid somewhere? Or is it the switch itself?

Anyone got a diagram handy, or know what I need to replace?

Thx.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 01:27 PM
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EDIT: Define "Functioning" Is it making a noise when fingered but no unlock, or, nothing? Can you manually move the slider and get it to actuate with the sw. in at least one direction? The sw. goes to a solenoid IIRC, but the manual slider bar just connects to the lock rod. If the slider is exceptionally free-wheeling then it (slider) may have just gotten disconnected from the rod. On a B- I think you can get the sideplate off without removing the whole door panel. If genuinely the sw. seems dead then I'd pull it and shoot it inside with elec. spray contact cleaner, and get some di-elec. grease on the main connector pins. Also can check with VOM if power is getting out.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!

Last edited by 96 Black; 07-18-2019 at 01:46 PM.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 08:53 PM
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My problem was behind kick panel on driver's side. One of the orange power wires was severed. Spliced it together,and everything worked as before.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 08:42 AM
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Here you go.....

http://www.goldsswagon.com/diagrams/..._doorlocks.pdf

...pretty basic circuit and shows you where the Relay is located. I'd be leaning toward a bad Relay but be sure to check the Wiring real well. GL.

EDIT - Pay close attention to where that circuit is grounded...Lower Left Kick Panel. I'd recommend you remove those screws, clean up the area and rings for good electrical contact and secure the connections again. They can become loose and dirty down in that area and 25 years later...who knows. Just sheet metal screws and maybe a Star washer. I pulled all of these from both L and R kick panel areas, cleaned them and reattached a while ago.

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Last edited by 4DoorSS; 07-19-2019 at 08:52 AM.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Black View Post
EDIT: Define "Functioning" Is it making a noise when fingered but no unlock, or, nothing? Can you manually move the slider and get it to actuate with the sw. in at least one direction? The sw. goes to a solenoid IIRC, but the manual slider bar just connects to the lock rod. If the slider is exceptionally free-wheeling then it (slider) may have just gotten disconnected from the rod. On a B- I think you can get the sideplate off without removing the whole door panel. If genuinely the sw. seems dead then I'd pull it and shoot it inside with elec. spray contact cleaner, and get some di-elec. grease on the main connector pins. Also can check with VOM if power is getting out.
Nothing happens at all when the switch is depressed. I can not get it to move at all. I've pulled the insert completely out of the other door insert (Impala door panels) and unplugged the switch. I actually had two other switches in my cube at work, as I had modeled up the door panel insert in SolidWorks 'cuz Scott Williams/HACK was thinking about producing those thru 2SMFG.com.

Neither switch did anything either.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slow96 View Post
My problem was behind kick panel on driver's side. One of the orange power wires was severed. Spliced it together,and everything worked as before.
I'm thinking this may be the culprit area, since the two other switches I have did nothing. Although I have no idea whether or not they are functioning switches. They've just been sitting in my cubicle with door inserts for a while now...

It's just been the dog days of summer here in Texas, and not really desirable to play with it after work when it's 100' outside. So my diagnostics will be put off until tomorrow morning.

Bob, thanks for the schematic. I didn't realize the relay is down in the kick panel area 'till this thread. That helps a lot.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juniorwatson View Post
..........................

Bob, thanks for the schematic. I didn't realize the relay is down in the kick panel area 'till this thread. That helps a lot.
That was Mark. This is Bob. I haven't quite figured out whether you've just insulted him, or, complimented me........

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 09:24 AM
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What about bob?


================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 09:27 AM
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Oops - sorry I had gbhs72 on the brain there. Are you a Bob too!

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thinking about this a little more after looking over the schematic. I'm really thinking it's got something to do with the solenoid.

I write this because I tried the alarm/remote start today (I rarely use the alarm since I mostly driver her to work and back. Just the remote start side of things each day), and that didn't set the locks either. That's obviously independent of the manual switch.

So therefore.....

Clear Image Tri-Ys & Hi-Flow cats >> 2.5" X-Pipe & Magnaflow Tri-Chambers, Mike Harris 4L60E, Circle-D 2,400 RPM TC, All MOOG FT End & Del-A-Lum bushed MOOG CTRL Arms, Eibach FT & New Stock HT rear springs. Hotchkis Sway Bars & End Links, RAISS, 3.73 Gears in Eaton carrier, Dynoshaft & CIA Loop, BMR Trailing Arms, Braided Brake Hoses, Taylor Spiro-Pro Wires, AutoMeter Water Temp & Oil PSI Gauges, Impala Console. ATE Blue Brake Fluid. Skip White distributor. 20's, Z28 Cluster, Corbeau GTS Seat
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 07:59 PM
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Send a message via AIM to 32assasin
you might be having wiring problems with your alarm if none of the locks work.


check the voltage at your switch cables
Orange = 12V Constant
Blue = Lock
White =Unlock

bridge
orange + Unlock/Lock
to see if they trigger; if they do --> you have a bad switch


if its the solenoid it should be very easy for you to check

just connect a Volt Meter
or bulb to the solenoid cable

+12v are applied to it when its opened
-12V are applied to it when its closed
(not sure on the polarity but its just reversed when its opened or closed)

if your light bulb turns on when you hit the unlock button, then your solenoid is bad
if your light does not turn on you have bigger problems

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