Replaced pinion seal, leaking again. Also, rear axle running temp? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-20-2018, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Replaced pinion seal, leaking again. Also, rear axle running temp?

In the last 10K miles or so, I replaced the transmission output shaft seal and bushing, and the pinion seal. (The worn bushing was causing a drivetrain vibration.) The transmission repairs have held, but the pinion seal is leaking again and there is a small amount of drivetrain vibration. Is there a bushing at the pinion that could be worn that's causing the seal to leak? If so, what's involved with replacing it?

(Note that the car has a Denny's aluminum driveshaft and 4:10 gears. The car currently has 145K miles.)

On a side note, how hot should the rear axle get during extended 90mph interstate drives? I noticed some warmth on the inside of the cabin above the rear axle, and my heat gun says that the external temp of the rear axle is around 150F when measured a few minutes after parking the car.

--'94 Caprice "SS" wagon, 0.30 over, high-volume oil pump, LT4 hot cam, 1.6:1 rockers, ported aluminum Corvette heads, shorty headers, PCM4Less tune, 4.10s, shift kit, side-exit dual exhaust with Flowmasters, OR X-pipe, F-body gauge cluster, Bonneville front and rear seats (working electrics), Bravada console shifter, Bilsteins, 12.7:1 Impala steering box, Boss 338s with 255/45R20s, bunch of other stuff I'm forgetting.
--'04 Mustang Cobra, '15 Audi S4
--1125R, 1050, VMax, VFR800, DRZ-400E
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 11:51 AM
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You do know that the pinion splines will leak oil if you don't put sealer (rtv) under the pinion washer?
What procedure did you use for removing and replacing the pinion yoke?
There is a roller bearing at the both ends of the pinion shaft.

Ken
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-24-2018, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Hennessy View Post
You do know that the pinion splines will leak oil if you don't put sealer (rtv) under the pinion washer?
What procedure did you use for removing and replacing the pinion yoke?
There is a roller bearing at the both ends of the pinion shaft.
IIRC, I didn't use RTV.

Here's the thread I made about the leaks and replacing the seals:
https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...-hard-fix.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFleshRocket View Post
I used a steering wheel puller (I held it in place with the yoke caps) and it worked fine. Prior to removal, I marked the yoke, nut, and shaft, and when I reinstalled them, I used a ratchet. I had expected to need my impact gun, but I didn't. Interestingly, the nut didn't get hard to turn until right at the marks.

When installing the new driveshaft, the fit of the u joint into the yoke was too snug to do by hand, so I installed the caps and tightened each bolt a little. That did the trick, and no, it didn't feel like it was binding or that I was forcing it.

I changed the diff oil too. Haven't gone out for a test drive yet, but I'm going to a nearby parking lot to do some figure eights.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFleshRocket View Post


Not pictured is the mark I put on the yoke, which lined up with the other marks. (For anyone else reading this, the preload needs to be set properly, and the easiest way to do this is to put everything back together the exact same way it came apart, hence the marks on the shaft, the nut, and the yoke. This assumes preload was set right to start with, though.

When filling the diff, I put in two tubes of TransX posi additive, and then got in almost 2 quarts of 75W90 before it started weeping. Since I had the rear of the car up on ramps, I didn't wait for it to completely stop weeping--just waited for it to slow down like it was almost done and then reinstalled the full plug.

--'94 Caprice "SS" wagon, 0.30 over, high-volume oil pump, LT4 hot cam, 1.6:1 rockers, ported aluminum Corvette heads, shorty headers, PCM4Less tune, 4.10s, shift kit, side-exit dual exhaust with Flowmasters, OR X-pipe, F-body gauge cluster, Bonneville front and rear seats (working electrics), Bravada console shifter, Bilsteins, 12.7:1 Impala steering box, Boss 338s with 255/45R20s, bunch of other stuff I'm forgetting.
--'04 Mustang Cobra, '15 Audi S4
--1125R, 1050, VMax, VFR800, DRZ-400E
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-24-2018, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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So, should I just get another seal and this time, install it with some RTV? If so, where does the RTV go, specifically?

Is there possibly any sort of bushing or bearing that might need to be "addressed"?

--'94 Caprice "SS" wagon, 0.30 over, high-volume oil pump, LT4 hot cam, 1.6:1 rockers, ported aluminum Corvette heads, shorty headers, PCM4Less tune, 4.10s, shift kit, side-exit dual exhaust with Flowmasters, OR X-pipe, F-body gauge cluster, Bonneville front and rear seats (working electrics), Bravada console shifter, Bilsteins, 12.7:1 Impala steering box, Boss 338s with 255/45R20s, bunch of other stuff I'm forgetting.
--'04 Mustang Cobra, '15 Audi S4
--1125R, 1050, VMax, VFR800, DRZ-400E
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-24-2018, 01:55 PM
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Yes, prob want to install another seal, but RTV does not go on the seal itself, nay rather, it goes inside the splines of the pinion yolk and under the nut washer as ken states.

Nab
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-24-2018, 08:32 PM
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This does not appear anywhere in the instructions. I am glad I read this before installing my just completed rear. Do I have to remove the yoke to do this, or can I just put the sealer under the washer?

1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, Impala rims, Hydroboost, Recaros, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
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For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-25-2018, 01:57 AM
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If your yoke is a tight fit and tough to re&re, putting sealer just behind the washer likely would do it for you.

My method on assembly is a big smear inside the yoke splines.

My sealer of choice is permatex teflon thread sealer


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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-25-2018, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Had the wagon on a lift today looking at the broken exhaust pipes. It does appear that it's leaking past the splines, not past the seal. Definitely should have added RTV to it as described in this thread.

--'94 Caprice "SS" wagon, 0.30 over, high-volume oil pump, LT4 hot cam, 1.6:1 rockers, ported aluminum Corvette heads, shorty headers, PCM4Less tune, 4.10s, shift kit, side-exit dual exhaust with Flowmasters, OR X-pipe, F-body gauge cluster, Bonneville front and rear seats (working electrics), Bravada console shifter, Bilsteins, 12.7:1 Impala steering box, Boss 338s with 255/45R20s, bunch of other stuff I'm forgetting.
--'04 Mustang Cobra, '15 Audi S4
--1125R, 1050, VMax, VFR800, DRZ-400E
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Finally got around to putting some RTV gasket maker (high temp, oil and gas resistant, black) on the splines and behind the washer that goes behind the nut that holds on the yoke. The leak appears to have stopped.

--'94 Caprice "SS" wagon, 0.30 over, high-volume oil pump, LT4 hot cam, 1.6:1 rockers, ported aluminum Corvette heads, shorty headers, PCM4Less tune, 4.10s, shift kit, side-exit dual exhaust with Flowmasters, OR X-pipe, F-body gauge cluster, Bonneville front and rear seats (working electrics), Bravada console shifter, Bilsteins, 12.7:1 Impala steering box, Boss 338s with 255/45R20s, bunch of other stuff I'm forgetting.
--'04 Mustang Cobra, '15 Audi S4
--1125R, 1050, VMax, VFR800, DRZ-400E
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