Rear axle ABS delete plug/plate - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Unread 04-05-2019, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Rear axle ABS delete plug/plate

I searched but everything I found isn't for a GM 8.5 10 bolt?
Does anybody know of one?
Want something a little cleaner than a sensor with the wires cutoff.
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Unread 04-05-2019, 06:41 PM
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Hey babe, talk about timely. I'm interested in this too. The thought of that sensor with wire remnants just makes me cringe. I think I saw in my searching that it can be threaded and a plug put in. I'm not positive on this though. I will try to find out more info and let you know. BTW router extenders are great. I'm able to stay current now. The laptop is ok but a bit cumbersome in searching. I be back

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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Unread 04-05-2019, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, really wish would have run a ntp pipe thread tap in housing when it was apart!
Didn't occur to me...duh
Not sure I like that idea now with it installed in car...
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Unread 04-05-2019, 07:09 PM
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I just left the sensor in mine since it is under the car and I will never see it.

Tapping and plugging would be the cleanest approach though.
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Unread 04-05-2019, 07:16 PM
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This is all I could find so far. Got any friends with a Tundra or Tacoma to compare? Might be able to modify a little to get it to work. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...0-13/overview/ I just got some more on this. It's most likely not the right size but measuring should get us there. I'm sure you'll get the idea.https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-49...eeze-plug.html

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Last edited by gbhs72; 04-05-2019 at 07:28 PM. Reason: More info
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Unread 04-05-2019, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I found many, just nuthin for 10 bolt which is weird?
I'll measure the hole in the axle I removed, maybe I can find a steel plug that'll fit?
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Unread 04-05-2019, 09:27 PM
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I was looking up parts for my diff when I read your question. The rear is the only thing left on my frame right now. I'll be able to just tap mine. If I was in your situation with a recent rebuild I think I would lean toward a small brass expansion plug. My thinking is that water will remain in the cup and rust a steel one. Less trouble with the brass. JMHO Best O luck babe.

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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Unread 04-05-2019, 10:32 PM
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I would just make an o ringed aluminum plug


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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Unread 04-05-2019, 11:03 PM
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A plug is okay but it doesn't take advantage of the two BIGGEST benefits of ABS delete--LEDs for speed, and the tachometer mod.



De-ABSing the car offers two options, especially with the B-body single channel rear ABS. (obviously different for Fleetwood 4-channel)

First, if you replace all the ABS sensors with LED lights your car will go faster. Some people like the blue ones but my friends used to tell me the reds were better. If you do just the front ones then most people will think you have front-wheel drive. If you go the extra step with the rear LED and get a clear differential cover [yes, those REALLY do exist] it will light up the gears at night so people know you have all wheel drive when you pass them. I added extra ground straps for the rear axle and it made a real difference.


The other option is to retain the reluctors and sensors, and use them to trigger something. Since they will be happening too fast to perceive, you either have to remove some of the reluctor teeth or install a circuit to trigger on every other tooth, or once a revolution, or somewhere in between. The B-body rear reluctor is spinning at a different rate than the front wheel ones, so you have count the teeth and do the math to adjust, or use it for another circuit. Possibilities--a drive-shaft triggered strobe light for backseat passengers to cause seizures when you do burn-outs.



OR, go all-in and do the tachometer net RPM mod. Not many people know about this one, so your car will be a real sleeper. In the old days cars were rated by gross horsepower, but we shifted to net (at-the-wheel) HP. BUT YOUR TACHOMETER IS STILL GROSS ENGINE RPM because it is cheaper for car makers to run a wire to the engine than all the way to the back, especially in a long car like a B/D body. So, if you use the rear ABS sensor as the tach input, you will get NET DRIVESHAFT RPM. The oil companies don't want you to know this because it is one of the easiest ways to reduce fuel consumption. It also is a better way to determine optimum shift points because believe it or not the transmission gear ratios actually CHANGE from 1st to 2nd to 3rd and so on. That's right--so it is hard to keep things "in the zone". The problem is that your tachometer is still measuring gross engine rpm, so you are only guessing at the net rpm.



Just ask this scientician:


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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Unread 04-06-2019, 12:05 AM
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DOH!!!!!!!!!!

[/COLOR]

Ahh today is the 6th of April not the first. BTW, Do you sell ice cream. Such Good Humor

Mark: Snowman-33

93 9C1: Work & Cubic Ca$h This started with a new headlight and fender Celeritas In Conficiendo

Last edited by gbhs72; 04-06-2019 at 12:07 AM.
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