A plug is okay but it doesn't take advantage of the two BIGGEST benefits of ABS delete--LEDs for speed, and the tachometer mod.
De-ABSing the car offers two options, especially with the B-body single channel rear ABS. (obviously different for Fleetwood 4-channel)
First, if you replace all the ABS sensors with LED lights your car will go faster. Some people like the blue ones but my friends used to tell me the reds were better. If you do just the front ones then most people will think you have front-wheel drive. If you go the extra step with the rear LED and get a clear differential cover [yes, those REALLY do exist] it will light up the gears at night so people know you have all wheel drive when you pass them. I added extra ground straps for the rear axle and it made a real difference.
The other option is to retain the reluctors and sensors, and use them to trigger something. Since they will be happening too fast to perceive, you either have to remove some of the reluctor teeth or install a circuit to trigger on every other tooth, or once a revolution, or somewhere in between. The B-body rear reluctor is spinning at a different rate than the front wheel ones, so you have count the teeth and do the math to adjust, or use it for another circuit. Possibilities--a drive-shaft triggered strobe light for backseat passengers to cause seizures when you do burn-outs.
OR, go all-in and do the tachometer net RPM mod. Not many people know about this one, so your car will be a real sleeper. In the old days cars were rated by gross horsepower, but we shifted to net (at-the-wheel) HP. BUT YOUR TACHOMETER IS STILL GROSS ENGINE RPM because it is cheaper for car makers to run a wire to the engine than all the way to the back, especially in a long car like a B/D body. So, if you use the rear ABS sensor as the tach input, you will get NET DRIVESHAFT RPM. The oil companies don't want you to know this because it is one of the easiest ways to reduce fuel consumption. It also is a better way to determine optimum shift points because believe it or not the transmission gear ratios actually CHANGE from 1st to 2nd to 3rd and so on. That's right--so it is hard to keep things "in the zone". The problem is that your tachometer is still measuring gross engine rpm, so you are only guessing at the net rpm.
Just ask this scientician: