Just out of curiosity, why would you keep the clutch fan when you could get HP by converting to dual electrics? Why mention that you have no resonators? No power gained there, just potential drone. Why would you use a Granatelli MAF given all the negative experience people have had with them and the lack of power to be gained with that mod? Search the forum for these issues and you will learn useful infrmation in addition to what Bugman has stated above. Good luck.
Looks like you read my signature. I wrote that stuff so that others could ask questions if they wanted. There is a plan here.
I am keeping the clutch fan, for now, because every truck I’ve ever seen has one, right up to my former 2012 Nissan Titan. Years ago I built a stripped out, race ported, 13B RX7 and went with electric fans. It overheated shortly after. I rewired, melted relays, replaced fans, replaced all of my wiring, forgot to flip the switch, and after many other dramas, replaced everything again, that time with a huge fan from a late model 4.6L T-Bird. This car needs to tow and stay cool. The fan was the easiest and quickest way. It costs $50. I will get the car dyno’d and then you can laugh at me.
The resonator delete resulted in a tad more bass. I did it because I was bored and it was cheap and I thought it would make the car loud enough to hear… at WOT. I’m a kart racer, why would I care about a bit of drone? You have any idea how violent a Phantom Seraph gets around 70mph?
The Granatelli MAF was the only 3.5” MAF I could find on eBay for $6. I paid $12 after shipping. The whole intake track is the stock box with paper element, 3.5” coupler, MAF, 3.5” hump coupler, 3.5”x12” pipe, stock elbow with hockey puck. The whole thing cost less than $70 and is completely straight. I’ve had no problems with the setup, and the cars pulls better on the top end. It fits the plan.
Here is the rest of my plan. Mods will go in this order:
2-1/4” offset/offset straight through mufflers – 400+cfm each
2-1/4” 300 cell converters – 400cfm each – spaced 30” from the end of the manifolds or header primaries.
What I can use of the stock pipes @ ~350cfm each? No idea about the water or Hg on any of these flow numbers.
Summit TB airfoil. I’ve never seen a twin blade TB on an HO engine without one. Check out the new Ford stuff.
3.42:1 Motive final gears, reluctor ring, 30 spline 8.5” True Trac LSD, Summit rear girdle.
Sonnax performance shift kit setup for “medium” firmness. There may be servo replacement involved. That’s a question for Sonnax.
12” 2400 stall converter – GM18AH reman. I have to tow a trailer full or karts or I would have bought an F body.
Valve springs, timing chain, and 216/226ish 490/520 lift at the valve cam degreed for bottom end. ZZ3, ZZ9, hot cam, 845, 227, whatever I find for the least money. I’ll use 1.5/1.6 rocker arms and tall valve covers if needed.
30lb injectors/big boy pump
Rear control arms, pinion angle, 15x10s, 295/50/15s, driveshaft loop, built trans with hard parts, carb’d 572, 32x17x15s, tubs, Ford 9, adjustable shocks, cage, 500hp NOx shot.
Do my posts make sense now?
Now back to Gen2 cooling.