drop out of WP weep hole - parts to get - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-07-2015, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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drop out of WP weep hole - parts to get

I'm probably looking at a new WP for my SS - my rebuilt motor just started leaking a bit of water around the WP weep hole. Just a drop but will likely get worse. It was new back in 2003 but recently sat for a couple years and the seals probably got brittle.

I've done this on my RMW.

Question is, if you buy a new WP (likely will get Gates -good luck with those), i know you get the one (maybe two??) little WP seal(s) for the drive shaft and two gaskets. You can buy Felpro TCS45956 to get the engine/Opti seal, the WP seal, and the front crankshaft seal. How about the Opti o-rings. Do they come with the Felpro set? I see two o-rings but are they the WP o-rings or the Opti o-rings?

Now the big question: you can't get 'new' opti's anymore that are GM. Is Delphi now the preferred brand? Cardone Select (lifetime warranty)?

'95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster.

'96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock.

74 Ford F100, 390 HP pulled out of a 67 Fairlane GT

91 Mustang LX notchback, 5.0L, 63,000 miles, pristine.

Last edited by Alchemist; 07-08-2015 at 05:31 AM.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 01:40 AM
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Why are you replacing the opti?

Jim B.

'95 9c1, pcmperformance.com 93 tune, Dynomax Ultraflo catback, K & N box filter, LT4 KM, 160 stat, 3.08 Posi.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 05:30 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I know, why replace a working Opti. It's at least 12 years old, and thinking it would be best at this point. But it's big $.

'95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster.

'96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock.

74 Ford F100, 390 HP pulled out of a 67 Fairlane GT

91 Mustang LX notchback, 5.0L, 63,000 miles, pristine.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 07:03 AM
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If you get a new opti you want to get AC Delco


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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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I've heard there are no more 'new' opti's, that all are actually reman'd, from AC Delco. How does everyone feel about the Delphi unit, CZ20003?

'95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster.

'96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock.

74 Ford F100, 390 HP pulled out of a 67 Fairlane GT

91 Mustang LX notchback, 5.0L, 63,000 miles, pristine.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 07:35 AM
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drop out of WP weep hole - parts to get

I suppose the Delphi is okay. Myself,and many others are still going to prefer the AC Delco. Why even bother with a perfectly functioning opti to begin with? I sure wouldn't...

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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I hear you on the opti. I do get a very low throttle jerk, almost a miss, that I wonder might be attributable to the opti, rotor, or cap. On the 95, the OBD1 doesn't give a misfire code, but one time, when leaving work, it jerked very bad and threw a code, but it went out immediately. I need to read what it was, in my history. I know you can replace the cap and rotor and that might be preferred.

'95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster.

'96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock.

74 Ford F100, 390 HP pulled out of a 67 Fairlane GT

91 Mustang LX notchback, 5.0L, 63,000 miles, pristine.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alchemist View Post
I've done this on my RMW.

Question is, if you buy a new WP (likely will get Gates -good luck with those), i know you get the one (maybe two??) little WP seal(s) for the drive shaft and two gaskets. You can buy Felpro TCS45956 to get the engine/Opti seal, the WP seal, and the front crankshaft seal. How about the Opti o-rings. Do they come with the Felpro set? I see two o-rings but are they the WP o-rings or the Opti o-rings?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alchemist View Post
I hear you on the opti. I do get a very low throttle jerk, almost a miss, that I wonder might be attributable to the opti, rotor, or cap. On the 95, the OBD1 doesn't give a misfire code, but one time, when leaving work, it jerked very bad and threw a code, but it went out immediately. I need to read what it was, in my history. I know you can replace the cap and rotor and that might be preferred.
When i did mine....
https://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=243202
I got the kit
http://s101.photobucket.com/user/jod...006-7.jpg.html
but I only did the WP, so if i remember right you need more o-rings... I did not buy any other parts.

AFA the jerking....is it a jerk or more of a slight miss?
My car on roads with a slight incline, and i am idling and creeping up, if i very lightly tap the go-pedal i can
make the engine sort of stutter if you will, but i've been told that is the EGR hunting between open and closed...?
Figured I'd throw that out there in case you may have nothing to fix.......

My SS runs fine, this is a specific repeatable set of conditions that are present to make my car stumble...

Good Luck with the WP...mine is still running fine.

-ALF out...

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Last edited by angelo; 07-08-2015 at 10:17 AM.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE

AFA the jerking....is it a jerk or more of a slight miss?
My car on roads with a slight incline, and i am idling and creeping up, if i very lightly tap the go-pedal i can
make the engine sort of stutter if you will, but i've been told that is the EGR hunting between open and closed...?
Figured I'd throw that out there in case you may have nothing to fix.......

Fine SS runs fine, this is a specific repeatable set of conditions that are present to make my car stumble...

Good Luck with the WP...mine is still running fine.

-ALF out...[/QUOTE]

It's a little of both - a miss and the car is 'jerky' at lower idle in each gear. If I'm above 2000, smooth. I have no EGR, never have, as the LT4 intake and my cam don't require it (that is completely legal).

'95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster.

'96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock.

74 Ford F100, 390 HP pulled out of a 67 Fairlane GT

91 Mustang LX notchback, 5.0L, 63,000 miles, pristine.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 01:17 PM
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I would suggest that you not change the OEM opti. Just change the cap and rotor to an MSD set. It's a lot cheaper and works great. I have 20years and 395,000 on my original opti with MSD cap and rotor and it still works fine. Use the money you save for other maintenance items that actually will need attention. Your hesitation is not a symptom of a bad opti. Look at the EGR, fuel filter, plug wires.

Jim B.

'95 9c1, pcmperformance.com 93 tune, Dynomax Ultraflo catback, K & N box filter, LT4 KM, 160 stat, 3.08 Posi.
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