cold a/c for three days - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2015, 05:47 AM Thread Starter
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cold a/c for three days

Since I've gotten my 94 I noticed my a/c was warm. I've charged it once and it got cold for about a week then back to warm. I charged it again and it was blowing snow balls for about 3 days. Yesterday morning I filled the system with the UV dye and you guessed it back to cold again but now warm.,it will.be cold.for the first few minutes of being on then go warm. With the dye in the system i have not been able to detect any leak points and the only thing that is glowing back at me is the charging port on the low side tonite when it gets dark in will take my UV light and get underneath the a/c compressor to check the seal on it and see if I can get some dye from.that. any suggestions?
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2015, 07:59 AM
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Trying to diagnose A/C without the proper tools is ridiculous.

What are the high and low side pressures?

After we have that information, we can start to help with an accurate diagnosis.

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2015, 11:51 AM
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From my Experience, Can Charging a low system sucks, You usually wind up OVER CHARGING IT, and some people who I know who have done it, Also overcharged theirs ( I o/c mine by 5oz once, Not horrible) Alot of those FANCY R-134a cans with the colorful labels and the charging hose with the gauge have crap additives in it, opposed to the USA (not Chinese like walmart sells) 12oz R-134a cans.

You probably have a leak, Or you could of overcharged the system and (could of) cooked the compressor. The System on these cars is kinda on the small side, 1lb 12oz, so its easy to put too much in.

Check the Service valves for leaks (Remove the caps on both the high and loe side) Check every switch connection, O ring connections, Condenser, And the compressor, (shaft seal and check the case seals) Yea the Evaporator could leak too, PITA to get to that w/o major disassembly.

Last edited by ghetto wagon; 07-10-2015 at 11:53 AM.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2015, 02:10 PM
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Both replies are correct. People refuse to believe this advice because there will always be someone who will disagree "I have been working on my own A/C with charge kits for 20 years and have no problems." You can bank on one of those posts coming soon. The O/P will take this as validation of what he wants to hear and will ignore our advice.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2015, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fbi9c1 View Post
Both replies are correct. People refuse to believe this advice because there will always be someone who will disagree "I have been working on my own A/C with charge kits for 20 years and have no problems." You can bank on one of those posts coming soon. The O/P will take this as validation of what he wants to hear and will ignore our advice.
I find this is even true when I offer for them to drive over 15-20 minutes to my house so I can throw the gauges on and see what it's doing. They never seem to have time for this then end up paying a shop top $ to get it going again. I own two sets of gauges the vacuum pump and a 30 pound can of R134 made in the USA that I can sell them at $5 per 12oz so I have everything but the hard parts to get someone going.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2015, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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Well I think I've pinpointed my leak, from the high side valve, I took the cap off and noticed the dye I had put in yesterday morning around the center and around the metal ring of the high side valve and bubbling up and the center. I've heard there were some brass upgraded valves for the high side. Also I'd want to do the low side valve as well. I figure if one is going the other shouldn't be too far behind.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2015, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fbi9c1 View Post
Both replies are correct. People refuse to believe this advice because there will always be someone who will disagree "I have been working on my own A/C with charge kits for 20 years and have no problems." You can bank on one of those posts coming soon. The O/P will take this as validation of what he wants to hear and will ignore our advice.
I find this is even true when I offer for them to drive over 15-20 minutes to my house so I can throw the gauges on and see what it's doing. They never seem to have time for this then end up paying a shop top $ to get it going again. I own two sets of gauges the vacuum pump and a 30 pound can of R134 made in the USA that I can sell them at $5 per 12oz so I have everything but the hard parts to get someone going.

Man if your in Maryland you let me know time and place lol. I'm trying to avoid shops
Last time I took.my car to a shop I got screwed royally, which led me to buy my caprice lol
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-11-2015, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Can someone point me in the right direction to get a better grade high side and low side valve?
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-11-2015, 09:15 PM
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Sorry I'm in Dayton Ohio. As far as the valve goes the one Oreilly gave me had another plastic ball in it like the factory and leaked brand new. I got a new set of hoses which uses the Schroeder valve instead of the ball. I was replacing the compressor anyway. Plus check your hoses since they rub on the A arm you might see it's almost worn though and you need hoses anyway.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-12-2015, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry I'm in Dayton Ohio. As far as the valve goes the one Oreilly gave me had another plastic ball in it like the factory and leaked brand new. I got a new set of hoses which uses the Schroeder valve instead of the ball. I was replacing the compressor anyway. Plus check your hoses since they rub on the A arm you might see it's almost worn though and you need hoses anyway.
Is it a must I get the new hoses and not just the valve?
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