Still No Heat? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2016, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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Still No Heat?

I thought I would start another thread as I know for sure my problem of ZERO heat is not related to the heater core. Here is what I have and what has recently been done.

New engine

New B Cool radiator

180 thermostat (trying to find ECM tune notes as I thought I had it at 160, don't think this would cause it)?

Mint 9C1 hoses

New water pump

New NOS heater core that I just finished installing.

All new coolant and system bled fine

Fan works, blowing nice cold air


I have not yet replaced the drip tray or lower dash plastic covers. After I finished the core install this morning I drove her at moderate speeds, came home and bled system. I reached down and touched the new heater core and it was cool, not even luke warm but the hoses are fairly hot?

I don't hear the heater "door" opening when I turn the dash knob to heat? I thought I use to hear that? Even if it were a vacuum problem with the door not opening I was thinking the very least the core should be hot? As I stated the hoses are up to temp?

Praying this is something simple as I have about eliminated the big things?

HELP is very much appreciated! Hoping someone here has experienced the same!

Larry
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2016, 09:13 AM
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Are you saying that both the in and out hoses to the core are hot, but the core is not?
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2016, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JackFish View Post
Are you saying that both the in and out hoses to the core are hot, but the core is not?
Good question, I now am second guessing myself as to weather or not I grabbed the lower one? I know for sure the top was hot! Tomorrow I am going to attend a local car show I will have driven it twenty miles to get there I for sure will check that.

JackFish, thanks for replying, the more remarks I get the more I learn.

One thing I just found; After everything was together I bled the system twice, until just fluid was running out the hose (I have the speed bleeder with a clear hose) no air bubble!

I just returned home as I drover her in town 12 miles and back, ran perfect, turned the heat on (vents don't work as I have the lower tray still off) while driving and again it was cold air.

Got home and decided I should check the system for anymore air, I'll be darned if I didn't get quite a bit more? I am not sure if I am air bound and a little of it keeps coming out? I say that because the air actually felt as if there was some warmth? I am so anxious I will do it again tomorrow making sure it's not my imagination.

Being the engine, B Cool radiator, heater core are all new that might cause the bleeding to be more difficult?

Still waiting for more advise!

Larry
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2016, 12:37 PM
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Larry,

Not a 'fix' solution, but.....should still should keep you warm; instead of tuning the knob to 'Heat', turn it to 'Vent' with the temperature set on 'hot'.

In my old 9C1, the 'heater' never worked, but I always got hot air from the 'Vent' setting.

Worth a try.

KW

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-20-2016, 02:18 AM
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Check my (#14) post on this previous thread for air removal. Also, dumb question, but did you accidentally leave a cap/plug on the heater core pipes when installing it (effectively blocking the line?)

https://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet....php?t=1278089
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-20-2016, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by shudahadaV8 View Post
Check my (#14) post on this previous thread for air removal. Also, dumb question, but did you accidentally leave a cap/plug on the heater core pipes when installing it (effectively blocking the line?)

https://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet....php?t=1278089
No caps or plugs left on. I have a couple of things I am going to check, just to make sure; 1. Did I install the hose restrictors in their proper direction?
2. Going to keep bleeding each time I drive as I am quite sure I felt a "tad" of heat when I discovered a little more air. But again it could be my imagination.

Keep coming with the advise, trust me it helps.

Larry
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-20-2016, 04:53 PM
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At operating temperature, the hoses should be so hot you cannot hold them. The return will be slightly cooler (still very hot) if you are pulling heat out of the heater core (air movement over it). The restrictor put in the wrong line or backwards will not stop the heat from making the hoses very hot. It's just a reduced size orifice. Good luck.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-20-2016, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KW Baraka View Post
Larry,

Not a 'fix' solution, but should still should keep you warm; instead of tuning the knob to 'Heat', turn it to 'Vent' with the temperature set on 'hot'.

In my old 9C1, the 'heater' never worked, but I always got hot air from the 'Vent' setting.

Worth a try.

KW
This got me thinking.
I'm sure someone who has an intimate understanding of HOW the dashboard vents and doors work 'behind the scenes', would be able to explain WHY this works, and maybe even what isn't working properly

When winter comes, I disconnect the AC relay in the fusebox under the hood. When I need serious heat, I move the directional selector to 'MAX' [which should probably be labeled 'RECIRC'].
Once the air blowing exclusively in my face becomes hot enough [which is not to say 'as hot as we know it could or should be'], I switch back to 'BILEV' or 'HEAT'.
The colder it is outside, and/or the faster the headwind, the more often I need to switch back and forth.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-21-2016, 10:47 PM
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This is not a trick or secret heat generator. It's simple thermodynamics. In A/C max, you are using air from the cabin recirculated. It is not as cold as air coming in from outside the car. It can then pass through the core (that has slowly heated back up) and you get what feels like warmer air for a few minutes. If you use the outside air, it will overpower the heat in the core and you'll barely get a minute of warmer air. Like adding cold and hot water and getting luke warm vs adding warm and hot water and getting warmer warm water.

In this scenario your core is restricted and the hot coolant coming in is not providing enough heat to "beat out" the cold air coming through the outside vent. You simply have less of a differential in temperatures with the A/C max setting.

If you are experiencing this ... where you get some heat, but not a lot and it fades quickly, your core, your hoses, your water pump, or your restrictor is clogged. Most often ... it's the core ... it has the tightest passages.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-22-2016, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shudahadaV8 View Post
This is not a trick or secret heat generator. It's simple thermodynamics. In A/C max, you are using air from the cabin recirculated. It is not as cold as air coming in from outside the car. It can then pass through the core (that has slowly heated back up) and you get what feels like warmer air for a few minutes. If you use the outside air, it will overpower the heat in the core and you'll barely get a minute of warmer air. Like adding cold and hot water and getting luke warm vs adding warm and hot water and getting warmer warm water.

In this scenario your core is restricted and the hot coolant coming in is not providing enough heat to "beat out" the cold air coming through the outside vent. You simply have less of a differential in temperatures with the A/C max setting.

If you are experiencing this ... where you get some heat, but not a lot and it fades quickly, your core, your hoses, your water pump, or your restrictor is clogged. Most often ... it's the core ... it has the tightest passages.
Again I thank you very much for all your thoughts and ideas. We can eliminate several things right off the top;
1. The engine is a brand new state of the art professionally built engine. Besides had the same problem when the last engine was in.

2. New NOS water pump.

3. New NOS heater core.

Note: Before I removed the old heater core I did flush it for several hours hoping this was the problem. I did get a lot of crap out it, both ways. I would have thought this would have cleaned out any junk in the restrictor on the 9C1 hoses? Problem is I didn't inspect the hoses for flow!

Tomorrow morning I driving the Impala about 3 hours NW so to have the new front suspension professionally installed (new tubular control arms, coil over shock, Flaming River steering shaft and HE Moog rebuild). I will return on Wednesday evening, once back I am going to once again drain the system, check all the hoses for flow and replace the thermostat. Might as well eliminate those two as it will get me closer to the actual problem.

One question; When my car was tuned I believe it was set for a 160 thermostat, I am running a 180, do you see any problem with this?

Closing note: This past weekend I buffed the Impala out then polished her to a beautiful shine! Being on the road with her Tuesday and Wednesday they are now calling for rain both days! Punks!


Thank you my friends for all the advise.
Larry

Last edited by Deputy347K9; 02-22-2016 at 05:01 PM.
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