A coolant filter how to... - Chevy Impala SS Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
smelonas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 567
 
A coolant filter how to...

Well, as we all know, getting the sediment and rust and dirt and everything else out of these motors is a bit of a task. Pulling knock sensors, reservoirs, and everything else just to clean the system out are some of the procedures I have read and tried. But it never truly gets ALL of it out. Unless you take the engine out and hot tank all the parts of course. So with all the space we have in these giant barges, why don't we just fix the actual problem right here, right now.

So here I present you, a walk through of installing a coolant filter in your GM B body!

First thing you have to get, is a coolant filter base (Baldwin CFB5000), coolant filter (Napa 4070), some 10mm hardware, and some 3/8 inch hose and hose clamps to match. Once all those are obtained, you can start the first step; pull the top radiator brace (10mm bolts)

Then you will need to layout where you want your holes. I put mine as far to the passenger side of the vehicle as I could for the sake strength and closeness to the reservoir. Then drill holes and be careful of clearances! Measure 3 times here!

My bolt heads would not clear the webs on the bottom, so I notched them just a little bit!

From here its easy sailing. Have a washer for the head side and I put a washer between the filter mount and radiator brace. Looking back I'll probably take those out. The filter mount surface is machined along that surface and will yield more area of contact actually.

I used flanged nuts and cut the bolts to the length I wanted. Worked perfectly!

Once the filter mount is tightened down to the brace, you can put the brace back in the vehicle and reinstall the 4 10mm head screws. Tighten them down accordingly.

Now simply plumb your coolant lines from your steam pipe into and out of the filter head like so.
A 90 would have been good for the outlet, but I bought all the bits and pieces beforehand not knowing where I would place this filter. Get a 90 if you are putting your filter in this general area.

Tighten the clamps down, start it up. Check coolant level after a couple minutes and add if necessary and drive till she is clean!

Filters are relatively cheap, so replace them one or two times a year!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

94 RMSB 170K Sat 5 years, ran for 1 of those then remained untouched for 4. Sat because it was slapped by a deer and the owners didnt want to fix it for whatever reason.
Mods, all the free good ones.
Future? Probably pull engine, reseal it, and run it a lot more. Looking to get 250k out of it. PRAYING for 300k.
smelonas is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 08:28 AM
Banned
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: northeast
Posts: 3,437
 
perhaps I have none of these coolant problems is because only I have worked this 96 impala. every 3-4 yrs depending on when the water pump weep hole weeps , the system is totally drained . then I inspect the coolant/engine parts for any corrosion. so far no corrosion . when the vehicle was new I did have some corrosion and those Gm PELLETS that caused my heater core to produce not much heat . vehicle was new.

since I just had to play games with these now F'ed up opti distributors I had to drain the newly installed coolant and I was careful not to loose any of it to re do the opti . that coolant looked perfect had no debris in it . reason I know is I used a paint filter . I also flushed out the heater core IMO the heater core is the coolant filter .
so that also must be flushed and blown out at each coolant change.

buying a used abused vehicle many do mix different coolants and this does create all sorts of crap in the system.
j cat is offline  
post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
smelonas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 567
 
When I got this car, and I finally got around to the cooling system, it was obvious that it had just been neglected. It's that simple. So I bought a flushing tool and went back and forth *many* times on the heater core hoses, and the system never produced clean coolant. NEVER. I would get it to be clean, then I would drive it to operating temp, then it would be dirty again. Finally I found a pretty good chunk of it was in the reservoir, so I cleaned that until it was clean. Coolant has stayed much cleaner since, but in my new reservoir it's easy to see the floaters and sinkers. They aren't much, but the coolant is not a nice green like it should be and there is sediment present. This is what a good bit of people go through on these cars I feel. It's not truly 'clean' but just mostly clean. Which over time clogs the heater core and makes your coolant level sensor not work right and a handful of other little issues.

This stops all of that and then you never have to take anything apart to clean anything. Just swap out a filter!

If your system has been maintained, then you really don't need to do this. The coolant won't just get dirty one day because you took care of the system. That just doesn't happen, unless you have a heat exchanger failure...

Also I suspect that this thing sitting for 5 years had a little bit to do with why it was so bad. I did have to put in a new heater core BTW..

As an aside, I just remember flushing the system with my back flush tool and I remember following the water trail down the street and along the edges you could see where all the rust and sediment got caught up and there was A LOT of it. I never could get it to stop pushing all that stuff out though.

I just hope it helps someone with the same problem in the future. Nothing cleans a system like a filter!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

94 RMSB 170K Sat 5 years, ran for 1 of those then remained untouched for 4. Sat because it was slapped by a deer and the owners didnt want to fix it for whatever reason.
Mods, all the free good ones.
Future? Probably pull engine, reseal it, and run it a lot more. Looking to get 250k out of it. PRAYING for 300k.
smelonas is offline  
 
post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 09:36 AM
Banned
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: northeast
Posts: 3,437
 
the back flush tool will not remove the debris . it will loosen it .

the block drain ,T stat removed then put hose in the T stat bore until it flow out clean. run engine with T stat removed then block drain . it is a time consuming job.

the radiator can be a problem to clean out . the tubes will have crud on them and over time that will get into the coolant. so on older systems a few decades ago I used the acid cleaner and then the baking soda neutralizer to remove those hard deposits due to dirty drinking water . I would run the vehicle for a day with the acid . radiator could be inspected easy due to the radiator cap being removed. back then I did not use distilled water. so now with the distilled water being used since the late 1980's I have never had to do this acid treatment. owners have used household acid cleaners successfully .... I still have the acid flush kit ,but unless I buy some abused used vehicle will probably never use it.

the acid cleaners will also remove any contamination of other antifreeze types.
looks like we have HOAT and OAT anti freeze. mixing these will cause problems .
green coolant types may not all be the same product. stay with the same manufacturer and spec..

If over a month of filtering , this filter continues to get dirty you may need an acid cleaning .
j cat is offline  
post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
smelonas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 567
 
I have flushed the system with distilled water. However you are correct that there probably still is an imbalance in the system just because of all the crud. Blackstone does coolant testing I think and that would give me exacting results.

My radiator is new, as is my reservoir and heater core and hoses. So basically I just need to pull the engine at this point. LMAO. Just kidding.

The backflush tool did loosen a lot up and carry it out. I could see it in the clear tubing I was using.. here's a pic!
And here it is after a minute or so..

Pretty nasty stuff.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

94 RMSB 170K Sat 5 years, ran for 1 of those then remained untouched for 4. Sat because it was slapped by a deer and the owners didnt want to fix it for whatever reason.
Mods, all the free good ones.
Future? Probably pull engine, reseal it, and run it a lot more. Looking to get 250k out of it. PRAYING for 300k.
smelonas is offline  
post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 05:16 PM
Senior Member
 
1slow96's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Dayton , Ohio
Posts: 6,724
 
Garage
Actually,coolant filters are typically installed in the heater hose circuit to prevent contaminants from even entering the heater core as they gradually get removed altogether.

Winner 2001 Road Course (prep. class) Detroit,MI
Winner 2006 Drag race (SS class) Indianapolis,IN
Quickest event reaction time .013sec. (final-round)
Class Winner 2014 Charlotte,NC. 2016 NOLA car shows
Winner 2019 Road Course (prep.class) Pittsbugh,PA
1slow96 is offline  
post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
smelonas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 567
 
I thought about doing a tee on the inlet post pressure regulator, but I figured this work just the same and it would easy to do. Sad part is that I will have to pull the reservoir again to flush, and I'll flush the HC at the same time for max cleaning.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

94 RMSB 170K Sat 5 years, ran for 1 of those then remained untouched for 4. Sat because it was slapped by a deer and the owners didnt want to fix it for whatever reason.
Mods, all the free good ones.
Future? Probably pull engine, reseal it, and run it a lot more. Looking to get 250k out of it. PRAYING for 300k.
smelonas is offline  
post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 07:37 AM
Senior Member
 
4DoorSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Beautiful Chester County, PA
Posts: 7,974
 
Nice writeup Smelonas but was also wondering about the location (in the cooling circuit) of the filter myself. Sure you want to try and keep crud out of the heatercore but at somepoint I would think this is going to at least help depending on how the coolant circuit flows. I wanted to put one on my car but it came down to a couple of things for me....

1) I don't want to cut up the 9C1 Green heater hose to add this.

2) not real sure I want to have this in the engine bay where you can see it.

3) I (try to) maintain the system well enough myself...

....but for the unmaintained or those that don't know their car's history real well, a coolant filter like this could be a good setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slow96 View Post
Actually,coolant filters are typically installed in the heater hose circuit to prevent contaminants from even entering the heater core as they gradually get removed altogether.
So this got me to thinking...does anyone know what the direction of coolant flow is on the LT1. First, in the way Smelonas have this hooked up, I would think the Filter has an INLET and an OUTLET side. Does the Coolant flow out of the Smaller reservoir hose to the Throttle Body or is it the other way around? This could be a big factor in how the filter gets hooked up in his post.

But what it the overall flow of coolant throughout the ENTIRE system....from A - B. Say starting from the reservoir, how does coolant flow including all systems components like the Water Pump, Block, T-Stat, Heater core, Reservoir, etc. Maybe there is already a flow chart posted here somewhere? Would be good to know this if someone is looking to install a coolant filter and the best place to mount the bracket and splice in the hoses.

================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
4DoorSS is offline  
post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 09:05 AM
Senior Member
 
1slow96's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Dayton , Ohio
Posts: 6,724
 
Garage
Coolant flows from the bottom hose on water pump to the heater core.

Winner 2001 Road Course (prep. class) Detroit,MI
Winner 2006 Drag race (SS class) Indianapolis,IN
Quickest event reaction time .013sec. (final-round)
Class Winner 2014 Charlotte,NC. 2016 NOLA car shows
Winner 2019 Road Course (prep.class) Pittsbugh,PA
1slow96 is offline  
post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
smelonas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 567
 
The coolant comes from the steam pipe obviously. Then goes through the filter and then the reservoir.

As far as the rest of coolant flow, I know what goes to and from the heater core and which way the radiator flows.

Outside of that, there are 50000 passages and all that that I have no idea where they go or what they do. Honestly i don't really care.

Thing is, the steam pipe pushes a good bit of coolant. Pull it off at the reservoir and have it pump in at the cap location. You will see just how much it pushes. Now multiply that by the thousands of seconds or countless hours of driving. Eventually the coolant WILL get clean. That's the point.

The heater core hoses are probably a better choice given that they flow a good bit more than the steam pipe, but in terms of ease of installation, try finding an easier way and I'll do it that way. Really it's all the same at the EOD.

The coolant is getting cleaned, and that's what matters.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

94 RMSB 170K Sat 5 years, ran for 1 of those then remained untouched for 4. Sat because it was slapped by a deer and the owners didnt want to fix it for whatever reason.
Mods, all the free good ones.
Future? Probably pull engine, reseal it, and run it a lot more. Looking to get 250k out of it. PRAYING for 300k.
smelonas is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevy Impala SS Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome