Can't fill thru thermostat/Upper Radiator hose? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-09-2017, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Can't fill thru thermostat/Upper Radiator hose?

Folks,
Okay, so after a LONG wile of doing this, that & the other thing on my Caprice, I've finally gotten everything done, and technically she's ready to be back in daily driver status.

Yesterday, and a few days past, I noticed in the manual temperature gauge (RH Cylinder head sender hole) climbing up to 210F at a stop light, with the AC on. Ambient air ~ 95F.

I get home, and check the fans, and both are operating correctly. I check the PCM temperature thru my laptop software, and sure enough its 200+.

Today I pull the thermostat, and check it on the stove in a pot of water. It starts to open @ 160F, and continues to fully open somewhere around 180F.

I've got a new gauge, so for the heck of it I'm ready to install. After passing the coolant mixture thru a screened funnel, I'm ready and start pouring into the thermostat opening.

I'm lucky if I can get a half pint, till the coolant reaches the top of the water pump thermostat opening. What the HECK is going on?

I pulled the lower hose going into the water pump, and let that drain and tried again, with the same results.

Does anyone have any idea what to look into next?

Should I pull the pump?

Is there some sort of gigantic air pocket in the block?

Thanks!

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-09-2017, 04:41 PM
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Cooling system on LT1 is through the coolant reservoir. Unclear on why you're attempting to fill through the thermostat housing. How will the radiator become filled?

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-11-2017, 01:47 AM
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Yeah ... skip that technique. In the end, you'll still need to put coolant in the reservoir and bleed and fill and bleed and fill. Check out the following thread and my "trick" in post #14 or so. If you don't have a radiator pressure pump, just follow the FSM directions.


https://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...heating-2.html
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-11-2017, 06:13 AM
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I only fill thru the WP T-Stat opening when I've drained the block and only to fill the block. If the Block was not drained (removing the Knock Sensors), then you are not going to be able to add much through the T-Stat opening. I usually ass Coolant thru the Reservoir to top off the system and then bleed.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-12-2017, 06:10 PM
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Sounds like you have never removed (or even aware of) the knock sensors. Do that and you will probably drain lots of crap. All the above posts are good.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-12-2017, 07:18 PM
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the 210 F in Texas ac on now seems normal to me. now it there is some air in coolant that will cause a higher temp despite the 160 T stat..

the coolant antifreeze whatever you use must be mixed with distilled water .. I and others do drain the block because 50% is still in the engine .

so a total drain of the block/radiator is in my 96 4.25 gallons ..

now what I do after I pull out the drainplugs/knock sensors is put the water hose in the T stat bore on water pump that will flush out any debris .. then the heater hoses at the block area I flush and blow those out. .. I then put it back except the upper radiator hose on the top of the radiator .. with the front end high I pour coolant into the upper radiator hose and it flows into the T stat goose neck then before its too full I connect to radiator .. probably 3 gallons or so.. then fill up the plastic pressure tank start engine until its hot then bleed at goose neck screw.. run engine and then bleed the screw again .. perhaps the next day as well. I do find it may take a few bleed cold /hot cycles to get all the air out..
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-12-2017, 09:30 PM
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210 is fine, especially on a hot day with the ac on.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-13-2017, 01:05 AM
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Are your fan turn on - off temps reset. It is pointless to have a 160 stat without re-flashing the PCM. 210 is where it would run with the stock 180 which is what happens with out resetting the fans.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-13-2017, 05:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j cat View Post
the 210 F in Texas ac on now seems normal to me. now it there is some air in coolant that will cause a higher temp despite the 160 T stat..
Right, I'm just an anal retentive person by nature and work, and don't like to see the OEM gauge get to over half, or see the aftermarket one above 200F.

Quote:
Originally Posted by j cat View Post
the coolant antifreeze whatever you use must be mixed with distilled water .. I and others do drain the block because 50% is still in the engine .
Right, although to this point, I have never drained the block when doing any cooling service.

Quote:
Originally Posted by j cat View Post
so a total drain of the block/radiator is in my 96 4.25 gallons ..

now what I do after I pull out the drainplugs/knock sensors is put the water hose in the T stat bore on water pump that will flush out any debris .. then the heater hoses at the block area I flush and blow those out. .. I then put it back except the upper radiator hose on the top of the radiator .. with the front end high I pour coolant into the upper radiator hose and it flows into the T stat goose neck then before its too full I connect to radiator .. probably 3 gallons or so.. then fill up the plastic pressure tank start engine until its hot then bleed at goose neck screw.. run engine and then bleed the screw again .. perhaps the next day as well. I do find it may take a few bleed cold /hot cycles to get all the air out..
I'll definitely do that next service time, since it's been since the fall of 2009 since I've complete flushed the engine block, and heater core.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cashmoneyspeed View Post
210 is fine, especially on a hot day with the ac on.
Yeah like I wrote earlier I'm just an anal retentive person by nature and work, and it's difficult to turn that off.


Quote:
Originally Posted by grandpas wagon View Post
Sounds like you have never removed (or even aware of) the knock sensors. Do that and you will probably drain lots of crap. All the above posts are good.
No not true at all, when I first bought the vehicle, that was one of the first things on the PM list. I did get quite a bit of sediment out at that time.

Clear Image Tri-Ys & Hi-Flow cats >> 2.5" X-Pipe & Magnaflow Tri-Chambers, Mike Harris 4L60E, Circle-D 2,400 RPM TC, All MOOG FT End & Del-A-Lum bushed MOOG CTRL Arms, Eibach FT & New Stock HT rear springs. Hotchkis Sway Bars & End Links, RAISS, 3.73 Gears in Eaton carrier, Dynoshaft & CIA Loop, BMR Trailing Arms, Braided Brake Hoses, Taylor Spiro-Pro Wires, AutoMeter Water Temp & Oil PSI Gauges, Impala Console. ATE Blue Brake Fluid. Skip White distributor. 20's, Z28 Cluster, Corbeau GTS Seat
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-14-2017, 12:49 AM
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Then why were you surprised you could only add 1/2 pint as mentioned in your OP? Not trying to rub it in, just seems hard to understand.

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1994 RMW 80K, clear corners, Gary's cables - battery, headlight, mech fan delete, air pump delete, home plate/first base delete, Bill Harper wiper arm mod, Corvette starter, 1LE elbow, Team SS pipe, K&N filter swiss cheese airbox, throttle body bypass, LED headlights.

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