Replacement Compressor - FYI - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-31-2017, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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Replacement Compressor - FYI

I recently replaced the Delco (Stock) AC Compressor with a unit I got at Advance Auto and just wanted to share one concern I had that I was not crazy about with the replacement compressor. I believe the manufacturer of the compressor was Omega.

Anyway...different from the stock compressor was how the Manifold Hose mounted to the back of the Compressor. The stock unit has a threaded stud that the manifold hose slips over and is secured with a 13mm nut. The replacement Compressor did not have a stud on the back and instead included a Bolt that would go thru the manifold hose and thread into the back of the compressor. I felt this bolt was a little too short and did not like using this setup over the stud. Plus if you overtighten the fitting you could strip the threads out of the Aluminum Compressor Case and be screwed. With a Stud/Nut setup this won't happen and you can torque it down pretty good.

So I wondered if the stud could be removed from the stock Compressor and used in the new compressor. Sure enough, once the stud was removed, it threaded right into the back of the new compressor. To remove the Stud, I just got 2 Nuts that would thread onto the Stud and tightened them to each other so they would not just spin off the stud. Then using a wrench was able to easily remove the Stud and transfer over to the New Compressor.

This may sound like a simple enough thing to do, but some may not even consider doing this and just use the Bolt. So I just wanted to share and maybe this will help someone else out that see's the same issue when swapping a Compressor. HTH

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-31-2017, 10:02 AM
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Right bright there. There's bound to be a compressor replacement in all our futures.

And, you're right, so obvious many (like me) might not see the stripping and bottoming/shortness risks to consider it. And jamb nuts good, plus star lock, or dremel a screwdriver slot in the end eh.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-31-2017, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah that's the only reason I mentioned it cause others may not consider doing this. The bolt could have been fine but I just didn't want to trust it. Unlike the stud in the block for the rear AC bracket, this one does not have a Torx head on the end but some may. If not, 2 nuts or like you mentioned a slot cut into the end for a screwdriver may work.

I'm lucky though cause I have a few coffee cans with years/cars worth of hardware that I've saved and always seem to find a bolt or nut in there that I can use for other projects without running to the store. Just happened to find 2 nuts on the very top that fit and did not have to dump the can and sift thru it to find the right sized nuts.

Another part I forgot to mention from the old compressor I also moved over to this unit. Not sure what it's purpose is, but it was just a Yellowed piece of plastic that mounted to the back of the compressor and followed the curvature of the compressor. The new compressor had a threaded boss for this in the same spot so I just moved it over as well. Again, no clue what's it's purpose is but at least it's there and not on the old compressor. Maybe a splash shield of some kind?

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'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-01-2017, 10:33 AM
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I used/purchased a "kit" from AutoZone, with discounts the price was fantastic, and lifetime warranty.
The compressor in my kit didn't even have a bolt, so I was forced to remove/reuse the stud.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 01:03 AM
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I just replaced the A/C compressor as well, plus many other parts. Neither did the new Delphi CS0123 compressor or Four Seasons A/C hoses-lines come with any mounting/securing hardware for the a/c lines-to-compressor connection. The only additions they come with are the sealing washers, and the hoses-lines come with a small bag of extra green o-rings.

6 fl oz of oil came with the compressor as well, but inside of it. I drained and put in 2 fl oz of my own PAG 150 oil. Added oil to all the other components as well, as i'm replacing all the other parts minus the lines that come from the firewall. Still need to do the evaporator core, i'll start tommorrow.


I did not think much about the yellow plastic thing on the original compressor until I read this thread. Its purpose is still unknown? It looked very easy to swap so why not? The one on my original compressor looks like a slightly transparent yellow color, and it is covered in grime (most likely due to leaked oil from the old compressor). It's now on the new clean compressor.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 03:08 AM
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Good biz. One suggestion for those who copy cat. The ass end of the compressor is aluminum, the stud is steel. That's a metal mismatch. You might not get it out a second time unless you put some anti-seize on the stud going into the compressor. Residual air and moisture will oxidize the aluminum / steel interface into a weld of some alien making.


If you've taken advantage of this stud reuse already and missed this, I wouldn't undo your work, it's preventative, not absolute.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 08:03 AM
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when replacing the compressor do not use the oil that is in it .. you use the oil that is the correct oil for your vehicle. pag 150 is the correct oil then add a small amount of dye leak detector.. I used 9OZ of pag 150 ...
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 09:07 AM
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Read the fine print on what oil the compressor you install uses.

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when replacing the compressor do not use the oil that is in it .. you use the oil that is the correct oil for your vehicle. pag 150 is the correct oil then add a small amount of dye leak detector.. I used 9OZ of pag 150 ...
I would like to comment on this post, because I just went thru replacing the compressor on my car. Having recently done a $hit ton of work on my car, I finally had my mechanic buddy replace the pinion bearing.

While he had the car on the lift checking things out while it was running, he told me that he seemed to think and feel that the compressor had a wobble/out of balance feel.

Since the compressor was only 8 months old, I got a new replacement (GPD 6511344 {#1136535} w/ Clutch) under warranty. What I didn't realize at the time, and the point of my post, is that the new compressor was supplied with the correct amount of PAG-46 oil.

When I serviced the A/C system last year, I followed the service manual and used PAG-150 oil. I found out that the differences between the PAG oils is the viscosity. My buddy seemed to think that mixing PAG-46 & 150 most likely contributed to the wobble of the compressor.

As a note, I followed my buddy's advice, and drained the oil that was in the compressor into a measuring cup, and found that it had 4 ounces. My buddy told me that he has seen compressors come in that are supposedly supplied with the correct amount of oil and they're dry. I added 4 ounces on the suction side back into the compressor.

I then flushed the condenser, evaporator core, and the compressor/manifold hose assembly three times with acetone & compressed air, and replaced all the O-rings, just to be safe.

I emptied the receiver dryer (New at the time of initial service last year) of old oil, and added the remaining 4 ounces of PAG-46 to it. I then used the vacuum pump for an hour, and then charged the system.

Lastly, I'll note that it's a HELLUVA lot easier to remove and replace the compressor manifold hose assembly by leaving it attached to the compressor when removing it from the vehicle. In the past I have used extensions and shallow sockets thru the wheel well to gain access to this, which was a MAJOR PITA with headers, or manifolds.

So long story short, make sure you read the fine print on what oil the compressor you install uses.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 01:46 PM
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IMO you dump out the new compressor oil and put in oil waste container , then you install what was in the vehicle ... my compressor 3 yrs ago came with a pag 46 well it was dumped in the trash..not gonna mix viscosity on the vehicle ac system as it is designed for 150 .

IMO you use ac flush product made for flushing the system to remove any debris.. so your use of acetone does damage plastic and rubber parts NOT good.. acetone is for metal only bad for hoses /compressor etc...
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
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IMO you dump out the new compressor oil and put in oil waste container , then you install what was in the vehicle ... my compressor 3 yrs ago came with a pag 46 well it was dumped in the trash..not gonna mix viscosity on the vehicle ac system as it is designed for 150 .
Thanks for your thought, but NO. The compressor is what's designed for the specific PAG oil viscosity, there's nothing else in the system that would be affected by different oil.

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IMO you use ac flush product made for flushing the system to remove any debris.. so your use of acetone does damage plastic and rubber parts NOT good.. acetone is for metal only bad for hoses /compressor etc...
I never wrote that I put acetone thru the compressor, it was new, and I wouldn't do that anyway. There are no plastic components in the AC system. The orifice tube was removed and replaced prior to flushing. The only thing acetone touched was aluminum tubing, and a small section of rubber hose for the manifold hose assembly. I'm quite sure that acetone touching the new rubber hose for a few seconds had no detrimental effects.

If the hose assembly was immersed and soaked in acetone I would agree with your statement; it wasn't.

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