Bending AC lines - best practice - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-28-2017, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Bending AC lines - best practice

Obviously it's best not to have to bend the AC lines, but pretty sure given the Edelbrock tubular / shorty's, i will have to (the old lines look to have been bent). Is it best to install them on the back of the compressor first, then bend, or should i bend them off the car?

What have others done? I believe BallSS has my similar setup.

Thanks for advice.

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-28-2017, 09:30 PM
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Oh,I'd always bolt them up first. Easier to tweak with end secure. Plus,might be more difficult to line up square w/ports if bent first...

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-28-2017, 10:30 PM
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Make sure they don't touch the sharp lip on the top of the control arm....
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-29-2017, 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by erenaud View Post
Make sure they don't touch the sharp lip on the top of the control arm....
Good point. Many do. Cover that area with a slit piece of larger coolant hose and then with the plastic covering often supplied on the radiator hoses.

Also, filing down and rounding off the edge of the control arm is an option.

When I had my compressor replaced years ago, I asked the AC tech to very slightly bend my AC hose.

He refused. Wouldn't do it, no way.

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Last edited by grandpas wagon; 10-29-2017 at 12:29 AM.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-29-2017, 08:02 AM
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the ac hose on my 96 IMP when new did rub on the control arm metal edge so I did grind down the sharp edge and placed a insulation piece on it then a plastic cover..

If the compressor pipes need bending of a small amount then probably no need to remove..

I do and have tubing benders but you do require room to bend the tubing..
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-29-2017, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
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Good point. Many do. Cover that area with a slit piece of larger coolant hose and then with the plastic covering often supplied on the radiator hoses.
This is what I did but I remember it being more on the Hard Line that runs from the Condensor back to the Evap. IIRC - this is the line that got rubbed thru on my car years ago and think there were other posts on this issue.

As for the Manifold hose, I don't remember it hitting the Control Arm but it can be close. I do find that with my Hooker SuperComp headers, the Manifold Hose coming off the Compressor and going up to the Drier almost seems about 4" too long. If it was a little shorter, it would still reach the Drier fine but would not be as close to the header as it is. I thought hard about getting a shop make up a replacement using the stocker as a template and shortening that hose earlier this year when I replaced the compressor. I'm going to a Tri-Y header soon so just got a little creative with the hose for now and it's fine and really been fine for years. Having the headers coated is most likely a plus for the close hoses.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alchemist View Post
Obviously it's best not to have to bend the AC lines, but pretty sure given the Edelbrock tubular / shorty's, i will have to (the old lines look to have been bent). Is it best to install them on the back of the compressor first, then bend, or should i bend them off the car?

What have others done? I believe BallSS has my similar setup.

Thanks for advice.
Have similar headers to those and you really HAVE to bend the line once it's mounted on the car and not off. There is just no way to tell how much you have to bend it out of the way until it is sitting there connected.

It will bend pretty easy so just take your time. Grab it with 1 hand down near the Compressor and using your other hand grab the part near the Hose Crimp and pull up and out to clear for the space you need. again paying close attemtion to not only engine heat components but also suspension components.

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Last edited by 4DoorSS; 10-29-2017 at 08:57 AM.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-31-2017, 07:02 AM
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Just to follow-up with everything that has been written so far, the last time I replaced this hose assembly (Earlier this year), I -LITERALLY- took about an hour to modify it to accommodate the Clear Image Tri-Y headers.

I'd slip the assembly on to the back of the compressor stud, and then take it over to the bench vise, clamp the bulkhead, and then bend slightly. I did this back and forth a number of times until I had a good amount of clearance away from the headers, and yet still able to access the flange head hex nut which held it to the compressor okay.

I then used the heater hose I had on the previously assembly, and wrapped both hoses, even though only the larger diameter one which goes to the accumulator/receiver dryer needed to be done, since that is the one that comes up and gets very close to the control arm lip.

On my first 9C1, the hose got rubbed thru, so I took the time, and used a few nylon wire ties to wrap both hoses just to CYA.

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